New Pads on Warpped Rotors?
#1
New Pads on Warpped Rotors?
Does anyone know if there will be any problem(s) if I replace my stock pads with new street/track pads (e.g. R4S) on a slightly warpped rotors?
Do I have to bed the new pads differently?
How badly would it hurt the new pads and brake performance when compared with turning the rotors before putting in the new pads?
Do I have to bed the new pads differently?
How badly would it hurt the new pads and brake performance when compared with turning the rotors before putting in the new pads?
#4
I'm not sure it's an option for you or not, but new rotors from site sponsor HandA are $65 each + shipping. You should be able to get them from your local Honda dealer for about the same price with a little haggling.
#5
How bad is it if I were to put in new pads on my existing rotor without turning it? I heard that turning the rotors will make it even more prone to warpping, and it's a cycle. Rather than replacing the rotors now, I am thinking about just putting in new pads because my rotors are still young and the warpping problem is minor - I could barely notice the vibration.
Will this mess up the new pads? Is there anything I need to do differently in the bedding process ?
Will this mess up the new pads? Is there anything I need to do differently in the bedding process ?
#6
What is "slightly warped"? Most complaints of rotor warping is actually uneven brake pad deposits on the rotor. When you break-in a new rotor you're actually puting a thin layer of brake pad material on the rotor itself. That's why when you switch brands of pads you need to redo the break-in process in order to put a new layer of pad material on the rotor.
Try this and see if it helps:
5 hard stops from 40
5 hard stops from 60
5 hard stops from 80 (optional)
Hard means just before ABS kicks in. You don't want ABS to engage since this will put an uneven layer on the rotor. "Stop" doesn't mean a complete stop but down to 10-15 mph, at which point you speed up to do the next "stop". After finishing your last "stop" continue to drive the car 10-20 minutes to let everything cool down. Don't come to a complete stop during any of this until after the brakes are cooled down.
This is a good general break-in procedure and if your problem is uneven pad deposits then this should eliminate that.
Try this and see if it helps:
5 hard stops from 40
5 hard stops from 60
5 hard stops from 80 (optional)
Hard means just before ABS kicks in. You don't want ABS to engage since this will put an uneven layer on the rotor. "Stop" doesn't mean a complete stop but down to 10-15 mph, at which point you speed up to do the next "stop". After finishing your last "stop" continue to drive the car 10-20 minutes to let everything cool down. Don't come to a complete stop during any of this until after the brakes are cooled down.
This is a good general break-in procedure and if your problem is uneven pad deposits then this should eliminate that.
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#8
Try it with your existing pads. You have nothing to lose.
If the problem persists I recommend new rotors. If the are truly warped, turning them creates thin areas where the high spots used to be, which will lead to furter warping.
If the problem persists I recommend new rotors. If the are truly warped, turning them creates thin areas where the high spots used to be, which will lead to furter warping.
#10
I put on my new pads today. Didn't notice the difference until I bedded it.
Seems like the bedding process helped removing deposits left behind by my old stock pads. My rotors are almost as good as new now! It certainly looks a lot better than before and the performance's back... Have ta start checking my rear view mirrors again!
Seems like the bedding process helped removing deposits left behind by my old stock pads. My rotors are almost as good as new now! It certainly looks a lot better than before and the performance's back... Have ta start checking my rear view mirrors again!