New 1.5" Front Sway Bar from ARE
04-05-2010, 06:27 PM
#111
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I originally had the single-blade prototype that Guy had at Nationals. He had a used double-blade version for sale so I traded up. The prototype (1.4something") isn`t as stiff as the final versions(1.5"), plus I wanted the second blade to go even softer for rain or slippery surfaces.
My new-to-me double-blade ARE bar showed up a couple of days ago so I snapped some shots.
One blade taken off the bar:
The rest are links you can click on.
The burly steel mounting brackets and the aluminum blocks that the bar pivots in:
http://i41.tinypic.com/21k07yr.jpg
No bushings in there, the powdercoated steel bar rides directly on the aluminum.
The split collars that keep the bar from walking side-to-side ride on the edge of the black steel mounting bracket - not what I would call perfect but not bad. I would prefer if they contacted the aluminum blocks instead, but it is pretty tight for space in that area.
One blade adjusting from fully soft to fully stiff:
http://i40.tinypic.com/a9pw6w.jpg - soft
http://i41.tinypic.com/8xkh6w.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/153mwxz.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/5l858x.jpg - stiff
There are no steps; each blade is infinitely adjustable once you loosen the one bolt. Then tighten after you get the blade where you want it.
My new-to-me double-blade ARE bar showed up a couple of days ago so I snapped some shots.
One blade taken off the bar:
The rest are links you can click on.
The burly steel mounting brackets and the aluminum blocks that the bar pivots in:
http://i41.tinypic.com/21k07yr.jpg
No bushings in there, the powdercoated steel bar rides directly on the aluminum.
The split collars that keep the bar from walking side-to-side ride on the edge of the black steel mounting bracket - not what I would call perfect but not bad. I would prefer if they contacted the aluminum blocks instead, but it is pretty tight for space in that area.
One blade adjusting from fully soft to fully stiff:
http://i40.tinypic.com/a9pw6w.jpg - soft
http://i41.tinypic.com/8xkh6w.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/153mwxz.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/5l858x.jpg - stiff
There are no steps; each blade is infinitely adjustable once you loosen the one bolt. Then tighten after you get the blade where you want it.
04-09-2010, 04:47 AM
#114
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- Bare bar with endlinks and endlink hardware: 20.5 lbs
- Bar as shown in pictures above, with endlinks, mounting brackets, and all hardware: 28 lbs
Done on a really awesome 90's era $10 bathroom scale, weighing myself and then myself and the bar multiple times.
Getting the brackets and bar lined up by yourself is a PITA! I still don't have it quite right as there's more friction than I'd like between the bar and the aluminum blocks. I've had worse with urethane bushings, but there's likely room for improvement with some adjustment. It looks like you need to get the aluminum blocks fully clamped up, then tighten the bolts that hold the brackets to the chassis. The problem is that access to those bolts is poor once the aluminum blocks are mounted. Will play some more over the weekend.
- Bar as shown in pictures above, with endlinks, mounting brackets, and all hardware: 28 lbs
Done on a really awesome 90's era $10 bathroom scale, weighing myself and then myself and the bar multiple times.
Getting the brackets and bar lined up by yourself is a PITA! I still don't have it quite right as there's more friction than I'd like between the bar and the aluminum blocks. I've had worse with urethane bushings, but there's likely room for improvement with some adjustment. It looks like you need to get the aluminum blocks fully clamped up, then tighten the bolts that hold the brackets to the chassis. The problem is that access to those bolts is poor once the aluminum blocks are mounted. Will play some more over the weekend.
04-10-2010, 07:06 PM
#116
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Loosened the bracket-to-chassis bolts today, it wasn't as difficult as I feared with a crow's foot tool for the front bolts. After doing this the bar pivots fairly freely, about similar to a bar with sticky lube in a poly bushing. Nice.
No clunking either while driving, even with the metal-on-metal bushings.
No clunking either while driving, even with the metal-on-metal bushings.
12-11-2010, 04:06 PM
#117
Just wanted to bump this up for an update from anyone with the ARE blade bar. Still working OK? No weird issues or noises? Are the blades everything you thought they would be?
I'm trying to decide between Gendron and ARE bar for STR.
I'm trying to decide between Gendron and ARE bar for STR.
12-11-2010, 07:44 PM
#118
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I was in contact with Guy last week. He has a revised front bar in the works that suppose to be lighter. I have no specs on it except he said it should be available early next year.
12-13-2010, 05:34 AM
#119
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Mine is working well, although I only use the full stiff setting.
I over-torqued one of the blade bolts and stripped the threads. Luckily the bolts are softer than the internal threads in the blade! I replaced both sides with a slightly longer version to get a little more thread engagement.
The endlinks do hit the ends of their travel in compression if you run on bumpy lots - meaning they start clunking. The last set was clunk free for about 3 weeks and three autocrosses. (My autocross lot is VERY bumpy) I've ground down the cone washers slightly to try to allow for more travel, we'll see if that improves endlink life.
The bar now has a tiny bit of play in the aluminum blocks. I'm going to preload them ever-so slightly to buy some more time before replacement. I'm debating boring them out to run somthing like a delrin sleeve to prevent that from happening again and/or make for easier replacement. Anyone know of a simple source of 1.5" ID Delrin sleeves?
I over-torqued one of the blade bolts and stripped the threads. Luckily the bolts are softer than the internal threads in the blade! I replaced both sides with a slightly longer version to get a little more thread engagement.
The endlinks do hit the ends of their travel in compression if you run on bumpy lots - meaning they start clunking. The last set was clunk free for about 3 weeks and three autocrosses. (My autocross lot is VERY bumpy) I've ground down the cone washers slightly to try to allow for more travel, we'll see if that improves endlink life.
The bar now has a tiny bit of play in the aluminum blocks. I'm going to preload them ever-so slightly to buy some more time before replacement. I'm debating boring them out to run somthing like a delrin sleeve to prevent that from happening again and/or make for easier replacement. Anyone know of a simple source of 1.5" ID Delrin sleeves?
12-13-2010, 06:27 AM
#120
Thanks for the feedback on it!
Mcmaster has either:
1) a 5' long tube of 1.5" ID 1/4" wall Acetal for $15
2) a 5' long tube of 1.5" ID 1/8" wall Delrin for $45 (1/4" wall for another $20)
3) a 1' long tube of 1.5" ID 1/4" wall Delrin AF (Delrin/Teflon) for $50
Probably not the best place since you may not use 5' of it or may not want the 13% teflon version, but it's at least a decent option.
Mcmaster has either:
1) a 5' long tube of 1.5" ID 1/4" wall Acetal for $15
2) a 5' long tube of 1.5" ID 1/8" wall Delrin for $45 (1/4" wall for another $20)
3) a 1' long tube of 1.5" ID 1/4" wall Delrin AF (Delrin/Teflon) for $50
Probably not the best place since you may not use 5' of it or may not want the 13% teflon version, but it's at least a decent option.
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