Jreyenga

So I picked up an AP1 for stock class autocross a few months ago. It has a lot of miles on it and pretty limited prep but I was able to pick up a 2nd place at the El Toro pro in it (unfortunately I'll be skipping the Wendover Pro).

Anyhow, the car could probably use a bit more front bar and so I talked with Guy Ankeny about building a bigger/nastier front bar. I had a little inside wheelspin at the pro, and some more front bar might let me try some other things with the alignment/tires (I'm thinking I can squeeze 275s on the front...)

Behold, the 1.5" monster (the girlfriend decided I should paint it green):


Guy Ankeny threw it on a jig to measure the swaybar stiffness. The stiffest Gendron bar measured out at 580 lb/in. This guy was 720 lb/in, and we think a lot of that deflection was in the bushings. Since he doesn't have to cut splines on the main bar, it's a bit cheaper than the Gendron too.

Also with the swaybar I installed some beefed up swaybar mounts as we're talking about some pretty significant swaybar loads:


The install went super smooth. First time I tightened up all the bolts the swaybar still went through it's range smoothly with no binding. It's well clear of the steering boot and isn't going to bang into the shock body like my Saner bar did.




I'll have the car out at the local event at Autoclub speedway May 3rd to try out the new hardware. I've got about 20 runs on my current set of hoosiers, so it'll be a little while before I try something silly like shoving 275s on the fronts.

glagola1

Whoa! Welcome to push. While I applaud your resourcefulness and gumption, you better order some of those 275s right now.

I can't wait to hear how it works for you.

TheNick

Looks good Jim, I did mine with a splined 1-7/16 bar and went over top of the steering boot.

Looking at yours makes me feel stupid because that is so much simpler. I can't go to full lock on mine without rubbing because I used a standard 37.5" Nascar length bar.

WynnS123

Wait, so the Saner bar will rub on the shock body? I already bought one but haven't installed it yet.

TheNick

Depends on what shocks you have.

WynnS123

kw v3

Jreyenga

I still have stock shocks and with the Saner bar set to full stiff the end of the threads for the endlink rubbed the shock body. I could have ground 1/4" off the bolt and it might have fixed it.

I just did a quick 'test-track-behind-work' shakedown and the car feels great (on street tires). It's tight but I don't feel like it was 'pushy.' I might take a little of my toe-in out of the rear to let the rear feel a little more 'live.'

FWIW, if the bar works out, I'm sure Guy will be looking to make some more of them

TheNick

Jim - what did you guys use for the center section? Looks like you've got something that is about a 1/4" wall thickness

Jreyenga

1.5" x .375" wall. The bushing ends are turned down to 1.25" to use standard poly bushings.

Guy is also looking at selling the bar with a blade type adjustor on one end. He built a prototype for his car but I believe right now he's trying to figure out the best way to manufacter more blades.

SC_Highlander

unbolt the endlinks from the control arm and the bar. Unbolt the bar brackets from the car and slide the whole bar forward a bit. Then bold the endlinks to the bar with the nut on the inside of the swaybar arms. This puts the head of the bolt nearest the shock. Then bolt the brackets back up and re-attach the bottom of the endlinks. You should gain clearance between the endlink and the shocks.