Looking for the next track mod
#1
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Location: Elkton, MD 21921
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Looking for the next track mod
Intermiate driver, suspension mods, brake pads, R-S3's. Talking with S2000 owners at track days (who all have more experience), common mods they spoke highly of were (1) non-stagger w/adjustable sway bar, and (2) rear wing (surprised me).
Is there an appropriate order of progression with the above?
Is there an appropriate order of progression with the above?
#3
Non-staggered first, so that you learn to drive with more grip available in the front.
Then the wing, so that you're adding grip in the rear in high-speed stuff.
At least, thats the order most so-cal drivers do it in. There have been some VERY fast drivers that drive with a wing on a staggered car, but they usually have a splitter of some sort.
I agree with Sean; get a seat first. It's one of the best driver mods I've done.
Then the wing, so that you're adding grip in the rear in high-speed stuff.
At least, thats the order most so-cal drivers do it in. There have been some VERY fast drivers that drive with a wing on a staggered car, but they usually have a splitter of some sort.
I agree with Sean; get a seat first. It's one of the best driver mods I've done.
#5
Brake ducts - Save on consumables (your pads will last longer, and you'll have fewer problems with fade as you get better. If you go non-stagger this will be a very beneficial mod due to your increased braking with all the extra grip).
Camber joints (j's or SPC) - Maximize your allowable camber adjustment options (more caster, more camber - just don't go overboard on the camber).
Camber joints (j's or SPC) - Maximize your allowable camber adjustment options (more caster, more camber - just don't go overboard on the camber).
#6
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Hankook RS-3. Right now, that's about as aggressive as I can go - I do not have a tow vehicle, so can not change wheels at the track..... tracks they are located approx 60-120 miles away, and have heard negative things about driving R-comps on the street that far.
Car is used on the street as well, albeit not that much..... do have another set of AP2 wheels collecting dust......but with RS-3's, I can use double duty, given the low amount of street time.
Car is used on the street as well, albeit not that much..... do have another set of AP2 wheels collecting dust......but with RS-3's, I can use double duty, given the low amount of street time.
#7
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how serious are you about tracking and how much do you want to spend?
going non-staggered isn't cheap. generally, you need to get new wheels and tires. then fender mods. then the big front sway bar. then the big rear wing. then a new alignment.
and if you go with the seat+harness route, you need seat, harness, and roll bar.
going non-staggered isn't cheap. generally, you need to get new wheels and tires. then fender mods. then the big front sway bar. then the big rear wing. then a new alignment.
and if you go with the seat+harness route, you need seat, harness, and roll bar.
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#8
Originally Posted by vooper' timestamp='1311610976' post='20812855
+3 on the seat/harness setup.
and what tires are you using?
and what tires are you using?
Car is used on the street as well, albeit not that much..... do have another set of AP2 wheels collecting dust......but with RS-3's, I can use double duty, given the low amount of street time.
#10
For non-staggered, it is not that expensive if you go with a 17x9 +63 wheel... all that is needed fender mod wise (assuming you get the camber joint and run 2.5ish+ deg of camber) is to bend up the tabs for the fender liner in front... none needed in the rear.