nope i mean ON OEM MY08 SUSPENSIONS and OEM ride height

 

Then your -2.6 front camber number on OEM suspension isn't correct I would guess. Most people max out at around -1.8 to -1.9 in the front with OEM suspension and ride height. Myself included.

I have the J's S1 joints on my car which is lowered 1 inch all around. I am at -2.6 in the front with room to go more aggressive. I am just using the built in roll center correction that the S1 joint has though, I don't have the additional gold plate to offset it more as you do. That will effect the ride height for sure as it it offsetting the lower arm further from the knuckle, but I am not sure exactly how that would effect camber.

 

I don't think the above is quite true. Here's how I remember the J's camber joint evolution:

The S1 (red) & S2 (blue) are camber only adjusters. There is no change in roll center with the S1 or S2. The L1 (red) and L2 (blue) are camber AND roll center adjusters. The gold plates were previously integral to the "L" series. The "L" assemblies are now made up of the "S" series camber adjuster + a gold plate.

J's Racing advertised the L2 and S2 to provide 3 degrees of additional negative camber. My measurements showed a solid 2 degree negative camber increase. I would suspect the L1 and S1 to provide about 1 degree of additional negative camber, but I have not measured the L1 or S1.

EDIT: Of course I go on Google and find all sorts of conflicting images of the J's Racing camber joints _after_ posting this, so who knows...

 

Here's a photo of mine - looks like yours. The J's P/N faces the inside of the car.

 

I agree that's what the verbiage of the advertisement says on every single go fast parts site, however a rep for speed freaks has insisted that the red version offset joints has built in RCA

In any case does anyone know why Js advertisements specify that the s1 increases camber from -2 to -5 degrees? How the heck is this possible, if it's static camber gain? After all, the body of the balljoint is offset it's not like the actual balljoint itself is eccentric

Also I don't know anyone who has remotely come close -5 degrees, is this value even possible?


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Ok so I had to crawl under my car to get this out of my head. If both of of them are installed like pic 7 they are correct. Here is my experience with both the S1 and S2 joints.

I originally installed the S1's With the plate just like yours. I could not get past -2.6 on stock height. I was killing the outside edge of the tires and needed more camber. So I purchased the S2's and I got to -3.2 with no problem. Now that I am on coilovers I have a ton of adjustment left.

So my lesson learned is if you are at stock height or close to you will need the S2's. You *could* get to -3 if you are low and use the S1's.

For what its worth I have always ran with the RCA plate in my joints as well.

 

The closest I've got was 4 degrees, and that was pushing it.

 

How did you achieve that value? What suspension were you and how low did you go? What was your caster set at?




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You made me pull out my old alignment sheet. Here's what it says:

Camber: -3.9
Caster 6.6 deg

Running the Tein SRC with 1.5" drop(?)

 

This photo is very helpful. Thanx. If you carefully look at my rca it does not take that kind of angle. It just sits there vertical. Now, or the kit is ONLY roll centre adjuster with out offset joint, or there is something wrong with the installation.