Yellow Streak

Performance Friction makes stick-on temp gauges you can put on your calipers. They are kinda pricey, but would go a long way toward telling you if your ducting solution is working. How large is your ducting? Perhaps the air flow isn't what you think it is.

Scot

I think i would prefer to waste a $25.00 rotor each race weekend (or every 2 weekends) than to drive like a bigger pussy than i already due.

Scot

way to sophisicated for me..... i have either 2.5 or 3" ducting.... i don't recall ever having brake fade, so i think it must just be how hard these pads are on the rotors........ and after the race in general we come in after one semi slow lap...maybe they need to be driven around more to cool off.?

krazik

I brake late and hard and better than everyone I was racing with this past weekend. I've been on the same set of VR front pads for over a year and I've only changed front rotors once in the last year.

Try the cobalts, they are the best pad for the s2k and you should get more life out of the rotors to boot.

mikegarrison

[QUOTE=krazik,Jul 19 2005, 11:11 AM] I brake late and hard and better than everyone I was racing with this past weekend.

twohoos

I doubt there's anything wrong with buying used; "street-worn" OEMs are essentially like new for racetrack purposes.

However, one man's "destroyed" rotor is another's "just barely heat-checked" rotor. Post up pics of what you consider destroyed; you may well have a ton of life left in them.

Oh, and proper ducting (to the *eye* of the rotor, not the surface) is a must.

Yellow Streak

Maybe the thing to do is to look at what is working - if you have a good setup that doesn't eat rotors, post what type of ducting you are using along with the rotor and pad type. I am running 3" ducting with large NACA ducts in the bumper. I run Cobalt Spec VR in the front on OEM rotors. I have never cracked an OEM rotor (only a Power Slot).

My feeling is that the combination of rotors that are suspect (because of use/age/remaining mass), insufficient ducting and pads that can handle a large amount of heat = cracked rotors.

Scot

[QUOTE=krazik,Jul 19 2005, 01:11 PM] I brake late and hard and better than everyone I was racing with this past weekend.

jfo

Scot,

I'm going to assume a few things:

1) you're driving the same as last year
2) last year you used street worn rotors
3) last year you used Hoosiers
4) last year you ran ducting

So if the only item you changed was the type of pad and now you have a problem I'm going to say the type of pad is the problem.

Now it might not be a problem if you are getting a faster deceleration over last year. If you're getting faster lap times then it's-----pay to play.

If the deceleration is the same then I would think the pads want to work at a different temperature than what you have them at. I don't know the difference between 9's and 10's but maybe the pads will work better on a heavier car or a lighter car. They seem to be wearing out and breaking parts on your car. Does Carbotech have recommended temps?

If the stick temp gauges are expensive how about the heat paint? 3 different colors and they change depending on how hot you get the rotor.

Note to other drivers not familiar with Scot: I can vouch for his driving---he is not overslowing the corners. In fact I wish he would overslow so there was somwhere I could be faster than him.

John

Scot

i started using xp10's right at the end of last year.....it seems to have helped my braking, so i guess this is just one of those..... if you want to brake more, you have to pay more.....

Just thought I would see where other people are on the issue.... i may go back to XP9's for a weekend and see if the braking is as good, etc....

I was just surprised that my one rotor completely cracked and the other one is mostly covered in stress cracks and only 2 weekends of use.

Thanks for all the replies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!