High Speed brake shudder
02-15-2010, 12:01 PM
#11
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yea thats looking like what ill do. Just seems like a waste to throw out these sweet looking ATE Rotors!
Do you guys think that since i'm FI and im running the Z1 SS's that ill destroy oem rotors in 2 or 3 trackdays? Or is that mostly just a concern with race slicks?
Do you guys think that since i'm FI and im running the Z1 SS's that ill destroy oem rotors in 2 or 3 trackdays? Or is that mostly just a concern with race slicks?
02-15-2010, 02:11 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Voodoo_S2K,Feb 15 2010, 08:35 AM
Anyone going through a set of rotors in a weekend needs to reconsider their brake setup.But I can/do go through a set of front rotors maybe every 4-5 track days. It all depends. I replace them either when they crack or when the vibration gets to be too much. But usually it's because they crack.
I go through a set of rear rotors every 4-5 years. Mostly I replace them just preventatively.
02-16-2010, 02:43 AM
#14
Keep the ATE front rotors as spares in case you crack your new OEM fronts with the heat.
And don't forget the appropriate cooling mods for your turbo. At the very least get an oil temp gauge to let you know when to lay off.
And don't forget the appropriate cooling mods for your turbo. At the very least get an oil temp gauge to let you know when to lay off.
02-16-2010, 04:56 AM
#15
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I let AMS know what i was going to be doing so he tuned it accordingly(richer AFR's = cooler temps). I still plan to cut the OEM hood vents, run an oil cooler, and i already have J's Thermostat. Also have AEM Datastream so monitoring coolant temp is taken care of.
I have beat the car pretty hard the whole way through TOTD and she did fine with coolant temps hovering around 190-200...hopefully ill be okay on the track.
I have beat the car pretty hard the whole way through TOTD and she did fine with coolant temps hovering around 190-200...hopefully ill be okay on the track.
02-16-2010, 02:36 PM
#17
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Just a note, you should still follow the other advice given.
If your shudder is from pad material and not warped rotors then that can be resolved by getting the brakes to near fading point. That usually cooks any pad material that has baked on to the surface of the rotor.
The most important part about making your brakes last is the cool down lap. I don't mean to say go slow but just go a bit easy on them for the last 3 or 4 corners. Heat will kill both your rotors and pads very quickly. The other thing you could do is maybe take a couple of laps around the paddock even at ten mph makes a big difference.
If your shudder is from pad material and not warped rotors then that can be resolved by getting the brakes to near fading point. That usually cooks any pad material that has baked on to the surface of the rotor.
The most important part about making your brakes last is the cool down lap. I don't mean to say go slow but just go a bit easy on them for the last 3 or 4 corners. Heat will kill both your rotors and pads very quickly. The other thing you could do is maybe take a couple of laps around the paddock even at ten mph makes a big difference.
02-16-2010, 03:28 PM
#18
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Really slow cooldown laps don't help all that much, actually. You want your cooldown lap to be fairly fast, so you get good airflow. Just not so fast that have to do much (or any) braking.
02-16-2010, 11:29 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by P-CarDriver,Feb 17 2010, 12:18 AM
so the goal is to just keep the car moving so the brakes can cool down?
after your session and you park the car, make sure not to leave your foot on the brake and don't use the ebrake, just leave it in gear.