Grime's Spec Koni Shock Dyno Plots - Q's and C's
#51
Originally Posted by TheNick,Mar 31 2010, 01:14 PM
Personally - I think anything over 400-500lbs max Rebound is too much.
What gives is that you are fast in spite of your setup, not because of it.
What gives is that you are fast in spite of your setup, not because of it.
#54
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Ok, I REALLY hate to be a pot stirrer, but there is so much FAIL going on in this thread with the amount of misinformation, and I think it's confusing a lot of ppl into going the WRONG direction with their shocks.
First off, Koni twin-tubes do NOT need gas pressure to have compression! Sorry Nick, but I'm gonna trust the engineers (not just Lee) at Koni over your thoughts on this. Koni OFFERS their rebuilt shocks without gas pressure to autoxers. On a Koni twin-tube, the displacement of fluid from the inner tube to the outer tube (caused by the shock shaft entering the shock body) thru the compression (foot) valve is what gives/controls compression. Even with the shocks degassed, there's still air in the outer tube (at atmospheric pressure). Whether that air is lightly pressurized or not, there's no way that it's greater than the hydraulic pressure building inside the inner tube during the compression stroke, so the pressure of the gas is negligible in regards to how much the compression force of the shock.
The degassed Koni twintubes had the advantage of slightly lowering ride height for stock class cars and that's why they were offered. As for proof that it doesn't screw up the compression, I had the rear shocks of the S2000 I was driving rebuilt in the Koni trailer at 2008 Nats. Lee did not have a nitrogen tank in the trailer to regas the shocks, but he told me it wasn't neccessary. I put the shocks back on, and the car went on to have the fastest scratch times on the east course, so I don't think there was an issue with no compression due to them being degassed.
For more info direct from Lee himself, look at this thread:
degassed Konis
I'll start another post on the other big problem i have in this post.
James Yom
First off, Koni twin-tubes do NOT need gas pressure to have compression! Sorry Nick, but I'm gonna trust the engineers (not just Lee) at Koni over your thoughts on this. Koni OFFERS their rebuilt shocks without gas pressure to autoxers. On a Koni twin-tube, the displacement of fluid from the inner tube to the outer tube (caused by the shock shaft entering the shock body) thru the compression (foot) valve is what gives/controls compression. Even with the shocks degassed, there's still air in the outer tube (at atmospheric pressure). Whether that air is lightly pressurized or not, there's no way that it's greater than the hydraulic pressure building inside the inner tube during the compression stroke, so the pressure of the gas is negligible in regards to how much the compression force of the shock.
The degassed Koni twintubes had the advantage of slightly lowering ride height for stock class cars and that's why they were offered. As for proof that it doesn't screw up the compression, I had the rear shocks of the S2000 I was driving rebuilt in the Koni trailer at 2008 Nats. Lee did not have a nitrogen tank in the trailer to regas the shocks, but he told me it wasn't neccessary. I put the shocks back on, and the car went on to have the fastest scratch times on the east course, so I don't think there was an issue with no compression due to them being degassed.
For more info direct from Lee himself, look at this thread:
degassed Konis
I'll start another post on the other big problem i have in this post.
James Yom
#55
Originally Posted by TheNick,Mar 31 2010, 01:35 PM
Yeah on my SA Koni's I ran near full soft with 800lb springs. It was way too stiff otherwise.
#56
Originally Posted by bronxbomber252,Mar 31 2010, 06:14 PM
Just backed them off to a little less than 1/2 stiff... went for a test drive... the car may have leaned a little more but was much more glued to the road, much more stable, and FAR more forgiving. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by glagola1,Mar 30 2010, 09:36 AM
IMO:
Rebound and especially large amounts of low speed rebound is the devil. It essentially neuters the shock. When a wheel hits a bump or the body rolls, the shock compresses and before it extends it goes though a change from compression to extension. At the transition between the two, it stops and accelerates. Between being stopped and extending, the shaft is traveling at low speeds. If there is a lot of low speed dampening, the shock doesn't allow the wheel to extend back down to the road surface and the tire spends a brief time not contacting the ground. You know what happens when the tire doesn't make contact with the ground. On bumps, the car floats and braking is weakened as well as corner grip if the car is side loaded.
Rebound and especially large amounts of low speed rebound is the devil. It essentially neuters the shock. When a wheel hits a bump or the body rolls, the shock compresses and before it extends it goes though a change from compression to extension. At the transition between the two, it stops and accelerates. Between being stopped and extending, the shaft is traveling at low speeds. If there is a lot of low speed dampening, the shock doesn't allow the wheel to extend back down to the road surface and the tire spends a brief time not contacting the ground. You know what happens when the tire doesn't make contact with the ground. On bumps, the car floats and braking is weakened as well as corner grip if the car is side loaded.
In terms of having so much low-speed that at turn-in the inside wheels lose touch with the surface, I seriously doubt that. Really big sway bars might do that, but not shocks with tons of lowspeed rebound. When you're talking about hitting a bump in the road, yes the tire may lose touch with the surface for an instant, but not at turn-in on a decent paved lot.
I find your shock dynos to be really interesting in that they are the only ones I've ever seen with a progressive curve for autox. Is this the standard Moton valving or is this the autox valving that Saini put together for Moton? I've driven Saini's winning car with Motons before, and I don't think those dyno plots woulda made the car handle the way it did....
Now, this is based on the OP's setup of a stock car running shocks. I know you're doing the tuning on your STR car with very stiff springs, and that changes the game of tuming completely. I'm still researching the relationship with stiff springs myself, but one thing I do agree with you is, you have to go out there and just turn knobs and find what you're comfortable with. If running your settings works, that's great, but making blanket statements that low-speed rebound is the devil will just cause a lot of confusion.
my 2 cents.
James Yom
#58
Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man...
No, but seriously, that's old school thought and the convention. It's wrong in my experience. I've been bucking tradition since 2004 which is also the time that I got my first set of Motons. My curves above are of revalved Motons. The off the shelf Motons for the S2000 are the curves that Saini helped develop. Here are the OTS Motons:
I'm not going to try to convince you here more than I already have. Just give some a try before you completely believe what you think.
No, but seriously, that's old school thought and the convention. It's wrong in my experience. I've been bucking tradition since 2004 which is also the time that I got my first set of Motons. My curves above are of revalved Motons. The off the shelf Motons for the S2000 are the curves that Saini helped develop. Here are the OTS Motons:
I'm not going to try to convince you here more than I already have. Just give some a try before you completely believe what you think.
#59
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Originally Posted by glagola1,Mar 31 2010, 05:46 PM
Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man...
No, but seriously, that's old school thought and the convention. It's wrong in my experience. I've been bucking tradition since 2004 which is also the time that I got my first set of Motons. My curves above are of revalved Motons. The off the shelf Motons for the S2000 are the curves that Saini helped develop. Here are the OTS Motons:
I'm not going to try to convince you here more than I already have. Just give some a try before you completely believe what you think.
No, but seriously, that's old school thought and the convention. It's wrong in my experience. I've been bucking tradition since 2004 which is also the time that I got my first set of Motons. My curves above are of revalved Motons. The off the shelf Motons for the S2000 are the curves that Saini helped develop. Here are the OTS Motons:
I'm not going to try to convince you here more than I already have. Just give some a try before you completely believe what you think.
I just wanted to make my point that your opinion is bucking the trend. Whether that's the right way or wrong way, that's up to everyone to decide, but what I didn't want is for ppl to think that that's the traditional way ppl thought of shock tuning. In light of your recent success, I didn't want ppl to think that your way was the norm, only to find out it doesn't work for them. Of course, comparing STR's 900lb springs to the stock 200-300lb springs is like comparing apples and oranges, so ppl need to also be aware of the context of the poster's experience. Who knows, mebbe less low-speed rebound is the way to go for STR...
Hopefully we can find out whose setup is correct one of these days when we get to run against each other.
James Yom
#60
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Originally Posted by macr88,Mar 31 2010, 01:58 PM
What is really considered low speed?
From looking at the dyno that Matt posted it looks like low speed is 0 to roughly 2.0 seconds and med starts at roughly 2. It varies with the adjuster -and of course this is just on his shock, others will vary depending on valving.-
Would it be right saying that the adjuster doesn't do much for low speed until after 4 on up to 6?
-edit-
From looking at the dyno that Matt posted it looks like low speed is 0 to roughly 2.0 seconds and med starts at roughly 2. It varies with the adjuster -and of course this is just on his shock, others will vary depending on valving.-
Would it be right saying that the adjuster doesn't do much for low speed until after 4 on up to 6?
-edit-
Edit: this is rebound I'm talking about.