Gendron Bar Install concerns
12-12-2002 | 08:36 PM
#1
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Orlando
Gendron Bar Install concerns
I installed the Gendron Front bar tonight and had a few points of concern. First of all the very closest hole to the Bar it's self was way beyond reach from the endlinks. I assume that this hole is not one of the adjustment holes Correct?
Also the Bolt attaching the Endlink to the sway bar is Touching the bracket that holds the Brake line. Did anyone else experience this? We had to remove one of the washers just to be able to fit the bolt between the Sway bar arm and the Bracket on the shock.I also fear that when the suspension is at the settled height it will rub on the Steering arm. It did not seem to install smoothly. I was constantly looking to see if I was doing anything wrong to make it that tuff. We sat down and Tried to figure out if it could fit any other way and determined that maybe it was all just supposed to be this close.
Also the Bolt attaching the Endlink to the sway bar is Touching the bracket that holds the Brake line. Did anyone else experience this? We had to remove one of the washers just to be able to fit the bolt between the Sway bar arm and the Bracket on the shock.I also fear that when the suspension is at the settled height it will rub on the Steering arm. It did not seem to install smoothly. I was constantly looking to see if I was doing anything wrong to make it that tuff. We sat down and Tried to figure out if it could fit any other way and determined that maybe it was all just supposed to be this close.
12-13-2002 | 02:41 PM
#2
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: San Jose, CA
Yes, things are that close with the as delivered kit. With the larger Penske shock bodies, I had even more problems with endlink clearance. Initially, I did as you and removed one of the tapered spacers on the endlinks, though this obviously resulted in even less allowable range of motion.
I ended up going to some 3/8" endlinks that have a greater range of travel, though I had to make more modifications. I took about 1/2 of the thickness off of the swaybar arms in the region of the adjustment holes. This gave more clearance to the shock body. The 3/8" endlinks also meant I had to bore out the adjustment holes from 5/16" to 3/8". The other 3/8" holes that are farther up the arm towards the bar are not meant as adjustment holes. Even if you got the endlink to reach there you would have exceptionally bad geometry.
The clearance from the arms to the boot on the steering link is also tight. I have torn the driver side one a bit with use.
-Andy
I ended up going to some 3/8" endlinks that have a greater range of travel, though I had to make more modifications. I took about 1/2 of the thickness off of the swaybar arms in the region of the adjustment holes. This gave more clearance to the shock body. The 3/8" endlinks also meant I had to bore out the adjustment holes from 5/16" to 3/8". The other 3/8" holes that are farther up the arm towards the bar are not meant as adjustment holes. Even if you got the endlink to reach there you would have exceptionally bad geometry.
The clearance from the arms to the boot on the steering link is also tight. I have torn the driver side one a bit with use.
-Andy
12-13-2002 | 03:48 PM
#3
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Orlando
Thank you Andy, That puts a few of my fears to rest.
I didn't remove one of the tappered spacers thought. I feared that it would restrict movement. I was able to make it fit (barely I mind you) by only removing one of the washers. Sounds like it's a nightmare with the pensky's. Do you know how the fitment would be with a set of Koni's?
I didn't remove one of the tappered spacers thought. I feared that it would restrict movement. I was able to make it fit (barely I mind you) by only removing one of the washers. Sounds like it's a nightmare with the pensky's. Do you know how the fitment would be with a set of Koni's?
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