Former Autocrosser looking for tips
#1
Thread Starter
Former Autocrosser looking for tips
The last time I seriously autocrossed was 21 years ago. I plan to get back into it with the S2000. Following the old rutine, I expect to go to a couple of races to invest time in myself and "learning" the car. Next, I will look to fine tune what I have as I notice most of you dial in some camber (I assume more than stock?). But looking at some of these threads, I can see myself quickly looking to add some improvements to the car to try to get competitive. Back in the day, the first, best improvement was the tires. Everything else was fine tuning by comparison. What do the experienced S2000 autocrosser recommend for incremental improvements.
One more thought/question: Do all the autocrossers agree that the car needs the bigger front bar to be competitive, or do some of you do well sliding the car with the original bar and making other changes? All responses, long and short are welcomed. Thanks.
Bill
One more thought/question: Do all the autocrossers agree that the car needs the bigger front bar to be competitive, or do some of you do well sliding the car with the original bar and making other changes? All responses, long and short are welcomed. Thanks.
Bill
#2
Check out Andy's thread from a few days ago.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...&threadid=89137
He gives a good run down on somethings he tried in route to the national championship. He even ran the car once with NO front sway bar. Not by choice I believe.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...&threadid=89137
He gives a good run down on somethings he tried in route to the national championship. He even ran the car once with NO front sway bar. Not by choice I believe.
#4
Thread Starter
[QUOTE]Originally posted by solo2racer
[B]
If you are planning on running race tires, then without a second thought, yes you need to get a larger front bar.
[B]
If you are planning on running race tires, then without a second thought, yes you need to get a larger front bar.
#5
Thread Starter
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mrsideways
[B]Check out Andy's thread from a few days ago.
[B]Check out Andy's thread from a few days ago.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are planning on running race tires, then without a second thought, yes you need to get a larger front bar. Without it, the car is just so undrivable as to not be fun
________________________________________________
Brad,
If you add a larger fron bar, the car would no longer be eligible for SCCA stock classes, right?
Barry
'00 Red/Black
________________________________________________
Brad,
If you add a larger fron bar, the car would no longer be eligible for SCCA stock classes, right?
Barry
'00 Red/Black
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by snapspin
If you add a larger fron bar, the car would no longer be eligible for SCCA stock classes, right?
If you add a larger fron bar, the car would no longer be eligible for SCCA stock classes, right?
The following about sums it up: (stolen from http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/ )
- Anything available on the exact model and year of your car as standard or optional equipment, as installed on the factory assembly line (nothing available only dealer-installed is allowed), plus
- Standard OEM identical replacement parts
- Accessories, gauges, appearance, comfort, and convenience items (not replacement driver's seat, though) that basically don't help
- Added roll bar or roll cage to spec (not required, though)
- Driver harness (no cutting seats to install, though)
- Trailer hitch and/or tow bar mountings
- Any wheel of diameter and width identical to a stock or factory optional wheel, offset within +- 0.25 inch
- Most street legal tires that will fit the mounted wheels and stock bodywork NOTE: bodywork part no longer true
- Any shock absorber of the same type and mounting as original; no change to standard spring mountings is allowed; suspension geometry may not be altered; gas or hydraulic shocks are permitted
- Any brake linings; pre-1992 cars may use solid/braided metal brake lines.
- Any front anti-roll bar (no change to stock/optional rear anti-roll bar, if present)
- Manufacturer specified ignition settings only
- Any replacement air filter element (or removal of air filter element); no plumbing changes, however
- Engine bored no more than .020"; no balancing or porting/polishing of head
- Replacement of any part of the exhaust system past the catalytic converter
- Any oil filter
- Added clutch scattershield
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Chicago
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by snapspin
If you add a larger front bar, the car would no longer be eligible for SCCA stock classes, right?
If you add a larger front bar, the car would no longer be eligible for SCCA stock classes, right?
Jason posted this almost 2 years ago, but it is still worth reading (for anyone who hasn't read it) about SCCA classing of the S2000. It also goes into the allowable mods for each class.
[note that there is one correction - he lists the S2000 in AS (which is where it was last year) when it is actually in BS]
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...=&threadid=8166
Hope this helps.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Loveland
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill:
I started autox this summer. I have a Comptech bar - full stiff, Koni shocks, OEM S-O2 rubber. Front toe -0.04 total degrees, -1.0 deg camber, left caster is 5.9 deg, right caster is 6.5 (I currently have a rubbing issue on the right front and will match the left camber in the next alignment.) The rear is -1.9 camber and a total toe of +0.20 degrees. I run 39 psi in the front tires and 33 rear. The only problem I see for you is I have a 2001 and you a 2002. You have stiffer stock springs and a smaller sway bar(s).
The Comptech bar made a big difference. Bang for your buck however is poor. There are other options out there.
Shocks - I run full stiff in the front and soft rear - I need to play here. Not sure I am good enough to tell the difference.
I believe the wheel alignment helped. Factory settings were not even close to factory specs.
With the above setup the car is very planted. Through a slalom it is amazing.
No matter what, you will have fun.
I am going to make the switch to Hoosiers. I could use some help here. 225/50 fronts seems to be the only choice in autox tires. 205/45 are available in road race tires. For the rear 245/45 and 275/45 seem to be available. Recommendations please. I believe the Hoosiers will affect setup. Any suggestions? Probably more camber will be required. Rear toe?
LAE
I started autox this summer. I have a Comptech bar - full stiff, Koni shocks, OEM S-O2 rubber. Front toe -0.04 total degrees, -1.0 deg camber, left caster is 5.9 deg, right caster is 6.5 (I currently have a rubbing issue on the right front and will match the left camber in the next alignment.) The rear is -1.9 camber and a total toe of +0.20 degrees. I run 39 psi in the front tires and 33 rear. The only problem I see for you is I have a 2001 and you a 2002. You have stiffer stock springs and a smaller sway bar(s).
The Comptech bar made a big difference. Bang for your buck however is poor. There are other options out there.
Shocks - I run full stiff in the front and soft rear - I need to play here. Not sure I am good enough to tell the difference.
I believe the wheel alignment helped. Factory settings were not even close to factory specs.
With the above setup the car is very planted. Through a slalom it is amazing.
No matter what, you will have fun.
I am going to make the switch to Hoosiers. I could use some help here. 225/50 fronts seems to be the only choice in autox tires. 205/45 are available in road race tires. For the rear 245/45 and 275/45 seem to be available. Recommendations please. I believe the Hoosiers will affect setup. Any suggestions? Probably more camber will be required. Rear toe?
LAE