I haven't had any problems with my ducts daily driving in the Pac Northwest.

Ted

 

I added brake ducts to a MY05 front bumper and just finished sorting out the routing with 245 front tires. Very slight rubbing is occuring at full lock, tubing is 2.5"OD. I did not want to cut out the faux ducts in the bumper so I found a solution that pulled air from the front grill. No engine cooling issues earlier this week during 25 minute sessions in 95*+ heat



Driver's side


Passenger's side (the A/C tubing is a little tricky to work around)


Wheel well routing - I made 3 zip tie attachment points: One to the rubber brake hose, one to the ABS wiring, and I made my own hole in the undertray plastic just fore of the sway bar.

 

What's a good source for the hose?

 

^ Pegasus or Racer Wholesale Parts. I used ~8' of the 11 I ordered.

 

Thanks, well while we're at it, where did you get those inlets and are you still happy with them?

 

I got them from Racer Wholesale. Flanges were bought from an aircraft supply place online. I purchased the small offset outlet ducts, they had to be modified to fit the space constraints behind the bumper grill though.

 

I was just about to ask how wide we can go on tires before we start rubbing o these things, but saw your post . Looking at your pictures it looks like there is an easy fix to the rubbing....you can pretty much see where it rubs(black marks), and if you were to route the hose straight through where it exits the front bumper area and run it accross under your sway bar and then back upward and around towards the shield then I think your problem will be solved. Hope that makes sense

I think I will be doing it this way...and thank you because your pics are very helpful.

 

Keep in mind that the 245 tires are on OEM AP1 rear rims with a +65 offset. I see what you mean with your different routing but you will still rub as the hose will still be in the same vertical plane as the inside edge of the tire, only lower. I routed the way I did to avoid having any hose suspended in the air without bracing. You will see that when the wheel sweeps through from lock to lock, you will need controlled slack in your tubing to keep everything working correctly.

 

thank you for clearing that up

 

Good thread a lot of info.

Problem that many are not seeing:

When leaving the brakes backing plates as whole this will cause the rotor to experience heat. what needs to be done is removing the backing plates, cutting them to a small triangle that can accommodate the flange and then putting them back on.

Using the whole backing plates is useless as they trap a lot of heat, the idea is to have the rotor front and rear as open to the air as possible with nothing around it so it can cool evenly.

I am about to build a kit or buy one but I will never use the whole heat shield and rout air to the rotors through it (it wont do much)

I know our heat shields are hard to move and I had to cut mine to remove it but that