krazik

2 per bar.

krazik

richard:

PCA let you Time Trial with them?

rlaifatt

Yes, I was treated as a regular participant. Very strict rules and well organized, but lots of fun. I really enjoyed the event. Many of the drivers were very friendly and welcomed me even though I was the only non-Porsche there. There was a lot of interest and curiosity in the S, particularly as I was passing everyone in Orange group where I started (3 groups: White, Orange, and Red), then they let me run with the really fast guys in Red.

gfacter

Ok 2 it is, thanks.

Now since these are slightly longer do I have do worry about any clearance issues?

George

[QUOTE]Originally posted by krazik

gfacter

Sorry one more question?

mcmaster has gives you a choice of A Left hand or Right Hand Shank and the same for the Stud. For both the Male and Female endlink.

I am Not sure which I need, all right hand???

Thanks for pointing me in the proper direction.

George

mx5

I just measured the endlinks in the miata each one is 4 inches and a quarter long. So just male and female linkage won't work (too short). I will probably have to buy female thread linkages and use 3" studs to make the endlinks.

3/8" is something like 9.5 mm and the metric bolts in the Miata and the S2000 are 10mm. Is there noticeabel slop since the bolts being a bit smaller?

ellisnc

If you look at page 1050 there are some connecting rods there you might be able to use. Not sure if they'd be too long or not. I think if you're going to use a turnbuckle to control the length you need one left thread and one right thread so when you want to tighten it down you turn one way and they both pull in or vice versa.

I think for the Impreza I can get away with just using the two ball joints and a jam nut since my links aren't very long. My car uses M10 as well, but seeing as the interface with the bar isn't exactly tight to begin with I don't see dropping half a mil as much of a problem. Ideally we could use the spherical bearing metric rod ends but those are like $60 each and at that point I may as well just go buy the premade ones and save myself the hassle.

Rylan, how did you go about spacing the ball joint from the stabi bar? Just some washers? This is looking like a pretty economical proposition. I can make 4 adjustable endlinks for about $240.

Orthonormal

So that you will know whether or not you need to resort to adjustable endlinks, and remove small amounts of preload by using the tolerances in the endlink holes.

There is.

rlaifatt

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rlaifatt
I have read in a couple tech articles that the goal of corner balancing is to make the Front:Rear weight distribution equal for Left and Right sides.

Mike Schuster

rlaifatt, cross weights are equal IF AND ONLY IF the front/rear ratio is 50/50 OR the left/right ratio is 50/50 OR both. In Puhn's example neither is true so cross weights are not equal.

For his example:

left/right 45/55%
front/rear 40/60%
total weight 2000

Weight on front axle is .40 * 2000 = 800. Split this into two amount based on left/right split: .45 * 800 = 360 (left front) and .55 * 800 = 440 (right front). These two weigths sum to 800, as they should.

Similarly, weight on rear axle is .60 * 2000 = 1200. Split this into two amounts based on same left/right split as before: .45 * 1200 = 540 (left rear) and .55 * 1200 = 660 (right rear). Again these two weights sum to 1200.

Working out the percentages on each wheel in the same way:

left front: .40 * .45 = 18%
right front: .40 * .55 = 22%
left rear: .60 * .45 = 27%
right rear: .60 * .55 = 33%

These four sum to 100% as they should, but the cross weights 18% + 33% and 22% + 27% are not equal.