rlaifatt

I have read in a couple tech articles that the goal of corner balancing is to make the Front:Rear weight distribution equal for Left and Right sides. As a result, in a symmetric car (longitudinally), the resulting cross weights will be equal (i.e. LF+RR = RF+LR), but in an asymmetric car (like the S and all road cars with a driver), the resulting cross weights will not be (and should not be) equal.

Prior to reading this I had always heard and seen that you corner balance to make the cross weights equal for our cars, but this conflicts with the the above. Which is correct?

The tech articles I referred to above are:
1) http://www.elephantracing.com/techtopic/co...rnerbalance.htm
2) How to make your car handle, by Fred Puhn (HPBooks). This book was published in the 70's, but physics shouldn't change.

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated as I plan to get my car cornerbalanced today.

rlaifatt

Hoping to get some advice soon before getting the car cornerbalanced this morning.

Donut

I've always heard the goal of cornerweighting is to get RF+LR = LF+RR not RF/RR = LF/LR. Here's another article that supports equal crossweights http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/cornerweight.html

Asura

You want to get the car corner weighed with you in it so your body weight is compensated for. Ideally have the car set up as you do at the track.
Also do it with 1/2 tank of gas. Take all extra gear out (that you use on a daily basis).
Remember, they can only get the cross weight ratio as close to 50%-50%. Everything else is not really adjustable.

You shouldn't be too concerned with the actual weight on each corner scale.

Hope that helps

krazik

I don't have time to read thru the articles linked.

But its always been explained to me that you want your diagnols to be 50/50 or as close as possible.

F-R is more a function of where you have the weight in your car. You can't change that too much with a CW at the springs. You'd need to physically move stuff around. The weight for the most part is where it is.

krazik

Oh yeah be sure to disconnect 1 end link from each sway bar when you CW and make sure they go back in with no preload. (you shouldn't have to yank on the bar to get the endlink in.

If you have stock endlinks you might want to consider adjustable ones from McMaster-Carr.

spider

[QUOTE]Originally posted by krazik
Oh yeah be sure to disconnect 1 end link from each sway bar when you CW and make sure they go back in with no preload.

cthree

you can't corner weight with the endlinks attached as the L and R are connected. The swaybar should be totally neutral when reconnected.

krazik

Even more important with oem endlinks and adjustable shocks. As you adjust the cornerweight you will likely move the shocks enuf to actually preload the sway bar. Is causes the bar to become the spring as you are now twisting it and it can take drastic movements of the spring perch to try to move more weight.

So what you do is remove an endlink, corner weight the car to close to 50/50 diag as you can get and then reinstall the endlink (with your car on level ground & wheels on the ground).

If you can get your oem one in with no preload (yanking on the bar to get it to fit) then you're oems are fine. But if you have to do any pulling/forcing. You need to get adjustable ones so that your sway bars aren't loaded when the car is at rest.

-Ry

rlaifatt

Sorry I missed all this guys. Just finished, and had them done equal cross weights (diagonals). There is definitely inconistency in the literature.
I'm off now to BW to run with the Porsches (PCA-San Diego) this weekend. Wish I had adjustable endlinks. Will continue this when I return.