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conclusive on-track testing of Speed Engineering Directional Vaned Brake Rotors

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Old 05-15-2011, 05:58 PM
  #41  
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Very cool exercise.

Originally Posted by Chris@SoS
That's a good question.

The plotted graph is a complete lap of the 21 turn road course. At the end of each lap, the rotor (either factory or Speed) was always hotter than when it started the lap. We chose two laps that were the most consistent in lap time and average vehicle speed. We also chose the laps that started the lap closest in initial rotor temperature for the best comparison. The rotors would stack on more temperature each lap, the factory rotor at a greater rate. This would explain the onset of brake fade we felt with the stock rotors as they exceeded either the brake fluid or brake pad's temperature threshold.

-- Chris
As others have said: It would have been cool to see data from lap 10 or 15 (straight running) to see how high the rotor temps got before reaching equilibrium, which will likely be above 1,000*F and probably closer/mid-way to 1,500*F.


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Old 05-24-2011, 08:51 AM
  #42  
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Just a reminder that there is one week left for 20% off rotors & package discounts:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/862...nted-packages/

-- Chris
Old 05-24-2011, 09:24 AM
  #43  
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I really wish I would have known about that package deal... my fault for not browsing more.

An big appeal to me for these rotors is that even if they don't improve cooling over a factor blank with ducts, I don't want to use ducts. We have a slew of Miatas as the serious track rats, but I'm getting into tracking my S2000 just for fun this year. My S2000 is a street car that I'll do track days just for fun in. Before an HPDE, I can swap on a set of these rotors and some good pads, after the event, go back to a street pad on the stock rotors and never have to worry about running ducts. I just simply don't WANT to run ducts. I think these are a great idea. I'm really glad something like this exists and I can't wait to try them out.
Old 05-24-2011, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by hondaf1
i think the true test of these SOS rotors would be to have someone who were cracking OE rotors every 4 track days or so, and see if they can get more than that before the rotors crack.

exactly, the test with lots of fancy graphs fails to show any tests of the -actual- problem w/ oem rotors....

Old 05-24-2011, 10:30 AM
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I was cracking stock and Centric rotors every 2 to 4 track days when I gave up and switched to RacingBrake.com rotors. My first set lasted 24 track days, a full and busy season, before a small crack propagated to the outside edge--no giant crack like the stock failure mode.
Old 05-24-2011, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by krazik
Originally Posted by hondaf1' timestamp='1305201648' post='20567190
i think the true test of these SOS rotors would be to have someone who were cracking OE rotors every 4 track days or so, and see if they can get more than that before the rotors crack.

exactly, the test with lots of fancy graphs fails to show any tests of the -actual- problem w/ oem rotors....
My take on the oem rotor failure is the way they warp when they try to expand from heat. They basically dish out which leaves the outer edge of the friction surface facing the wheel in constant contact with the pad as well as the inner edge of the friction surface on the hub side.

Our test was a failure since the 1500 degree brake probe didn't ship in time and mine only goes up to a 1000 degrees which wasn't enough for the APM's or Centrics but the APM's didn't show signs of warping or dishing like the Centrics and they also don't have any micro cracks like the centrics do.

The reason why they don't dish is due to the holes in the hub area which weaken the area so that it acts more like a floating rotor, the friction surface is then allowed to expand more freely vs the oem/centrics where there is no give in that section.

As with anything, I'm sure someone can take the APM's out and crack them in a day if they don't let them cool enough before parking their car after each session.

The pedal feel was more consistent with the APM's most likely due to the dishing is my guess. I'll keep running them and hopefully we'll get another chance to test them against the centrics.
Old 05-24-2011, 12:10 PM
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you don't need any fancy probes. you just need to count the number of track days it takes you to crack them vs the number of track days it would take for you to crack oem ones. If they last at least 2-3x as long then you know.
Old 05-24-2011, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by krazik
you don't need any fancy probes. you just need to count the number of track days it takes you to crack them vs the number of track days it would take for you to crack oem ones. If they last at least 2-3x as long then you know.
Yes but it would be nice to know if there's a temp difference between the two. I know it doesn't matter if the APM's run 200 degrees cooler and they still crack in the same amount of time.

I'll let you know how long they last and as of now they look like they'll last longer but who knows by how much, time will tell.
Old 05-24-2011, 12:46 PM
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unless the brakes are getting stupid hot (which they're not because we'd all be complaining about the brakes sucking to stop the car) and the pads you're running handle the brake temps you're seeing. how hot they run doesn't really matter.
Old 05-24-2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by krazik
unless the brakes are getting stupid hot (which they're not because we'd all be complaining about the brakes sucking to stop the car) and the pads you're running handle the brake temps you're seeing. how hot they run doesn't really matter.
Heat directly affects longevity of a rotor. In theory if these run cooler then they should also last longer.

Time will tell if the theory is correct though.


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