the s2k dude

silver9k... can you post up some pics of your brake ducts? i was going to do this sometime before the weekend.. post pics here for everyone if you can : )


or email me at justintaylor05@gmail.com if you dont mind.

i know brake ducting is effective.. but how effective? if you are getting 3x the life out of your pads.. thats enough in $ savings for me to go ahead and do it. ive been having some brake issues lately.. not sure what to blame it on. Im going back to the drawing board and start from the bottom to weed out the culprit.

Silver9k

I wont post pics up in this thread, its just not the right place to do it as it isn't my thread, but you have PM

robrob

As long as your brake pad is getting your brakes into ABS then additional brake torque only changes the amount of brake pedal force required to get into ABS. You will not stop shorter or harder. You shouldn't pick brake pads for torque, but for the temperature range you're running them in. Pad wear rate is a good indicator of of how well your pad matches your brake temps. When you start burning through your brake pads at a high rate it's time to move up to a higher temp pad. Your worn pads will usually show signs of "smearing" when you overheat them too. I personally like XP10s in the front and Cobalt XR3s in the rear. I run 2 1/2 ducts and run Nitto NT01s and Hoosier R6 tires.

Here's my how-to for brake ducts: http://robrobinette.com/S2000BrakeDucts.htm

hondaf1

i agree with Rob that brake ducts doesn't really help to reduce rotor cracking much, rotors crack because of heat cycle. but brake ducts does help improve pad life. pads wear quickly when used over their heat range.

i think the true test of these SOS rotors would be to have someone who were cracking OE rotors every 4 track days or so, and see if they can get more than that before the rotors crack.

dan_uk

someone should take a set to Carolina Motorsports Park and see if they last a day!

robrob

I agree, this is the info we really need.

GEARHEAD

Thanks SOS for performing the test and sharing the results - well done.

Regarding comparing these to OEM rotors from a wear and cracking view. I'd suggest putting an OEM rotor on one side and one of these on the other to eliminate all the variables (weather, tires, track surface, traffic, etc). I don't think the difference in temperatures will cause a noticeable difference in pad CoF but theoretically if the pads are operating at different temps, the car could pull to one side if the pad has a steep CoF/Torque vs. Temperature curve.

Mek-Tek

Any pics of the rotor after the test??

c32b

Hi Chris, to share my experience on brake ducting. I did a custom brake ducting kit on my car and was pleased with the results. Granted that my car is in no way a race car, does not run on semi slicks or slicks, was driven by an amateur like me and does not have as much power your race car might have.

I used to get brake fade after hot laps at the track with the stock brakes + ferodo ds2500 brake pads + motul rbf600 fluid. I could last for about 4-5 laps before serious fade would start to set in. Datalogging showed my max braking g's to be at or slightly above 1 G steady on the heavy braking zones and I did tend to trailbrake quite a bit when needed. On the long drive back from the track, the fluid remained spongy and it took a day or two to regain pedal firmness. Fluid could last me max 2 trackdays and I cracked a pair of rotors after about 2-3 trackdays. A friend of mine cracked his rotor after 2 trackdays.

Post brake ducting seemed to point to increased pad longevity, a longer lifespan for my rotor which hasnt cracked after 7 trackdays, fluid life which could be stretched up to 7 trackdays (i got the fluid changed out because I was worried about the condition of the fluid even though not much fluid fade was noticeable and the extended fluid change interval was only meant to be an experiment) The custom ducting was all done at fairly reasonable cost as well ~350 USD. One of the best benefits is that I could stay out on the track braking hard consistently for just as many laps as I wanted so seat time was maximized. I stayed out for quite long , maybe 18 laps?, until I ran out of fuel.

I briefly wrote about my experience on my blog below. My ducting kit employed 2 funnels per front side which direct air to pad/piston area & another directly to the rotor air inlet area. The rear ducting have 2 hoses directing air to the same pad/piston area & directly to rotor air inlet area but is fed by one funnel with a Y joint leading to the 2 hoses.

It is true that I dont have concrete temperature readings before and after. I tried to secure some rotor temp paint but was not able to in time to do testing. I'm not doing this professionally or as a commercial venture so I have some constraints.

Hope this is useful to all

Jaku

good test and on the right direction, but this looks like a half test to me

these data looks like those laps are probably the first hot laps or first hot laps after cool down laps

it clearly shows that it cools down faster than stock rotors, but i'd like to see some data after a 20 mins session run

the temp range of that sensor, 0-1000F is probably not high enough to record a few more hot laps