s2k_redhead

We're getting new brake pads and the quotes we're getting from shops/dealers all include doing the rotors. For those of you who switch out brake pads often, do you do this without doing anything to your rotors?

cdelena

I change pads all the time and never turn the rotors..

Some pad manufacturers recommend the residue of the previous pad be cleaned off which can be done with sandpaper. The specs on the S2000 rotors do not allow much material to be removed so I would not turn them unless there is a surface variation (feels like a warp) that needs to be cleaned up.

The Unabageler

my front rotors lasted about 45k miles, whereas a set of front pads may last four thousand if I'm lucky

Schatten

pads, I've changed out a few times. Sandpaper works fine on the rotors, anything between 150 and 220 grit sandpaper will be suffice. But if you are upgrading from OEM pads, I don't really feel its too necessary.

pfb

It is customary, although often uneccessary, for a shop to turn the rotors when replacing pads.

You usually want to turn the rotors when they get warped, uneven, or gouged. I went through a set of stock pads, a set of Porterfield R4S's, and a set of Panther Pluses, then turned the rotors when i added my last set of Panther Pluses.

Sidenote: The Panthers use rivets to bond the friction material to the backing plate, and will score your rotors if you let them get to low. Long before a bonded pad would cause damage. The heaviest wear is on the inside front pad, which is also the most difficult to inspect. So if you use Panther Plus pads (which are great pads), make sure to inspect them frequently!

On the plus side, pulling the rotors was a breeze, even after many track day heat cycles, and the local shop turned them for about $8 each with an hour turn-around.

Schatten

only if you have an impact gun, or else.. plan on drilling those bolts out.
if you do decide to drill out the bolts, replacements are only 43 cents a pice (4 required).

pfb

If you don't munge them up with the wrong tool, they should come out just fine. A few hard taps with a hammer and an impact screwdriver (a whopping $6.99 from harbor freight) and a #3 phillips bit (no cheating with a #2 phillips), and I could practically back them out by hand.

dwb1

I recommend a small amount of Never-Seize on the threads and on the counter sink part of the screw before reinstalling on hub . This will make removal very easy in the future . You will notice that the threads for these screws go a the way through the hub this make rust a problem in the salt belt .

brad