psychoazn

Does anyone know the stock camber adjustment range for the front? The bottom number is easy to find, but the upper (positive) number is the one I'm looking for.

AFAIK, most s2k's will max at around -2.2 in the front, while the CR's max out at about -1.8.

I'm looking to get the J's camber joints, but one adjusts the range -2 degrees, and the other -3 degrees, so the number I'm ultimately looking for is the range of adjustment possible with the camber joints in.


Also, for now, I've been adjusting camber based on tire wear; my track tires are for the most part used only for track days and spirited drives. Is this okay, or should I ultimately be adjusting based on tire temp measurements with a pyrometer regardless of tire wear patterns? My intuition tells me that camber based on wear may give more tire life, while adjusting based on temps would potentially yield better track times at the cost of potentially more tire wear.

Thanks guys!


Tires after about 70 laps at WSIR with maxed factory camber; car is otherwise stock.

psychoazn

Anyone?

ZDan

The only real way to set up for quickest lap times is to measure changes against the stopwatch and have a very consistent driver and a fair amount of track time.

If you use a pyrometer, be aware that even temp across the tread is generally *not* optimal. Optimized setup will generally have the inside of the tread a fair amount hotter than the outside.

Regarding wear, in my experience up to ~2.5 degrees doesn't result in terribly excessive asymmetric wear for street usage. Excess toe, on the other hand...

cuonice

I can recall ever taking note of the camber value when maxing a front eccentric out positive. I'd estimate (on a lowered car) it is right around 0 (+/- .25 degrees).

az3ar

Looking at your tires you need another -.5 and I believe that track was clockwise right?

captain_pants

Assuming the tires have the insides towards each other the tire wear indicates you need more negative camber, not less. Maybe I'm just confused as to what you're asking though.

One warning: A Gendron/SFR front bar needs a fair amount of negative camber to clear even the stock shocks. When I first tried to bolt mine on a completely stock car (with near zero camber) it didn't fit. I had to do a rudimentary alignment in my garage to get it to fit.

Sorry, can't help with numbers though.

Orthonormal

What was in the way of installing the bar?

psychoazn

Yes, the track runs clockwise, and the insides are facing each other.

The J's camber joint changes the camber adjustment range by -2 and -3 degrees respectively, so for example, if the factory range is +0.2 to -1.8, the new range with the joints in w ould be -1.8 to -3.8 or -2.8 to -4.8, depending on the part chosen. My concern is the upper end of the adjustment range, since if the "least" amount of negative camber is relatively low, then I may end up with TOO much camber.

I am on a stock CR suspension, which sits a bit higher than a regular s2000; my factory adjustment range maxes out at about -1.8 in the front. I'd like to go at least -2.5 with the next alignment, but I don't want to inadvertently limit my adjustment range on either end by getting the wrong camber joint.

captain_pants

The shocks.

When the car is at minimum camber the lower control arms (and shock mounts) are pulled inward. The Gendron is sized for cars that are near full-negative camber, which makes sense as the average Gendron buyer won't have zero front camber.

takchi

Get the J's Camber joint S1...it's worth it.