BSP Suspension Baseline
#21
re: ride heights. The higher the car, the lower the spring rate has to be because the high roll center transfer's rate faster The roll center and CG are closer together. When you lower the car, you also lower the roll center, and more weight is transferred, but it takes longer to happen, so you have to use shocks/springs/bars to get the responsiveness back.
#22
here's the good news about bump steer - its linear. it doesn't change much on the AP2 rear, so you're good there. On the AP1, as long as you maintain grip, the car tightens up as you increase the lateral load (entry, in most cases) and loosens up as the friction circle takes a more longitudinal load (corner exit). If you can slow down the rate of change in geometry, the car is more predictable. On the AP2, it's neglible. You probably get as much change in geometry from bushing deflection
I purposely left out body roll as that's something the springs and multiple other settings/setup will change. I still use a similar spring because the changes in ride heights, spring, changes, shock changes, bar changes, etc didn't seem to have a predictable pattern no matter what height we chase other than worse handling as the car got lower. Too low messed up suspension travel which I found very necessary on our bumpy lots. The S2k is low to begin with and I never felt any benefits of a lower CG in lower auto-x speeds. On track, it is much different, but aero is much more of a factor compared to an auto-x setup.
Also, we tried the soft spring/high ride height setup (see Nationals 2011) ... initially too much body roll, loose entry, loose exit (even with adjustments maxed)... added stiffer sway bars, created delayed response & robbed grip.
-Marc
#23
Thanks for the advice everyone. I appreciate you weighing in with your experience. I have installed the KWs with 750/550 springs for now. I'm didn't go as low in the rear as suggested because its outside of the recommended height range and I was concerned about hitting the bumpstops. I can appreciate running at the edge of risk and I am far from a conservative driver. I push hard at my and the cars limits. This suspension stuff is all new to me but I'm learning quickly. I am only looking for a baseline that isn't dangerous at first. It sounds like with stiffer springs I should go with more rebound than recommended, I just don't know much much. I guess I'm just slightly skiddish about ending up with a totally unpredictable setup at first. I don't have the luxury of being able to have a testing session or two.
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#26
Registered User
After a couple hours on the shock dyno, my recommendations are as follows.
From full stiff on each adjuster. I consider the first detent that engages to be position 0 (standing for 0 clicks from full stiff.)
front rebound -2, compression -5.
rear rebound -4, compression -6.
Front rebound adjustment is very course in this area. I dont think i would recommend moving from this position as the jump up and down one click is double or half the force. With the low front spring rate, you may have no choice but to drop the front rebound 1 click on rough surfaces. If you feel this is needed, i would consider softening the rear rebound 1-2 clicks as well. On street tires, i found that FR-3 and RR -5 felt very nice
Front compression, again not a ton of wiggle room, only adjusts very low speed compression rates. I would only recommend moving 1 click in either direction depending on how things are feeling, often a click stiffer will find you some mid corner front grip, but will cause a lack of compliance over anything bumpy (lincoln concrete )
Rear rebound, I would start with this adjustment if you want to play with a little transitional balance and on power rear grip (sounds backwards to some but hey its just one guys opinion and i cant control what works). I wouldn't recommend more then 1 click stiffer or two clicks softer (1 click stiffer is an equal change to two clicks softer as the adjustment is not linear)
Rear compression, If your going to venture somewhere, i wouldn't go more then two clicks softer and 1 stiffer
IMO, hope this helps
#27
Thanks for your time and effort Robert. Greatly appreciated. I will report back after we thaw out up here in Montana. Good luck with your new ride.
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#28
Originally Posted by sproutxj' timestamp='1391778600' post='23003576
^ I do appreciate the sharing of knowledge for sure.
Do you think I will need to be concerned about bumpsteer in the rear going as low as suggested? Our big course venue doesn't have the smoothest tarmac.
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Do you think I will need to be concerned about bumpsteer in the rear going as low as suggested? Our big course venue doesn't have the smoothest tarmac.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 4
After a couple hours on the shock dyno, my recommendations are as follows.
From full stiff on each adjuster. I consider the first detent that engages to be position 0 (standing for 0 clicks from full stiff.)
front rebound -2, compression -5.
rear rebound -4, compression -6.
Front rebound adjustment is very course in this area. I dont think i would recommend moving from this position as the jump up and down one click is double or half the force.
Front compression, again not a ton of wiggle room, only adjusts very low speed compression rates. I would only recommend moving 1 click in either direction depending on how things are feeling, often a click stiffer will find you some mid corner front grip, but will cause a lack of compliance over anything bumpy (lincoln concrete )
Rear rebound, I would start with this adjustment if you want to play with a little transitional balance and on power rear grip (sounds backwards to some but hey its just one guys opinion and i cant control what works). I wouldn't recommend more then 1 click stiffer or two clicks softer (1 click stiffer is an equal change to two clicks softer as the adjustment is not linear)
Rear compression, If your going to venture somewhere, i wouldn't go more then two clicks softer and 1 stiffer
IMO, hope this helps
Rear rebound is one that I've just left alone for the most part.
#29
looks like youv got a pretty easy one there sprout.
Baseline setup with provided info.
change front springs to 750ish
Front bar on full soft.
In a week or two i will have my shock dyno back and i will send you some baseline settings to match up the kw with the valving range i like for those wheel rates
front == camber 3.5*, minimum caster, 1/32" toe out per side, oem fender height from hub 13"
Rear == camber 3.0, 3/32" toe in per side, oem fender height from hub 12.5" (any higher and i would recommend a softer rear bar)
you will be ok on those shocks for a bit, they arent bad, just will be missing the last little bit
Baseline setup with provided info.
change front springs to 750ish
Front bar on full soft.
In a week or two i will have my shock dyno back and i will send you some baseline settings to match up the kw with the valving range i like for those wheel rates
front == camber 3.5*, minimum caster, 1/32" toe out per side, oem fender height from hub 13"
Rear == camber 3.0, 3/32" toe in per side, oem fender height from hub 12.5" (any higher and i would recommend a softer rear bar)
you will be ok on those shocks for a bit, they arent bad, just will be missing the last little bit
#30
Registered User
Originally Posted by rrthorne8' timestamp='1391572692' post='22999541
looks like youv got a pretty easy one there sprout.
Baseline setup with provided info.
change front springs to 750ish
Front bar on full soft.
In a week or two i will have my shock dyno back and i will send you some baseline settings to match up the kw with the valving range i like for those wheel rates
front == camber 3.5*, minimum caster, 1/32" toe out per side, oem fender height from hub 13"
Rear == camber 3.0, 3/32" toe in per side, oem fender height from hub 12.5" (any higher and i would recommend a softer rear bar)
you will be ok on those shocks for a bit, they arent bad, just will be missing the last little bit
Baseline setup with provided info.
change front springs to 750ish
Front bar on full soft.
In a week or two i will have my shock dyno back and i will send you some baseline settings to match up the kw with the valving range i like for those wheel rates
front == camber 3.5*, minimum caster, 1/32" toe out per side, oem fender height from hub 13"
Rear == camber 3.0, 3/32" toe in per side, oem fender height from hub 12.5" (any higher and i would recommend a softer rear bar)
you will be ok on those shocks for a bit, they arent bad, just will be missing the last little bit
as always... IMO