Broken Divider Spring Perch on KWV3
#1
Thread Starter
Broken Divider Spring Perch on KWV3
A few days after installing these (I should have done the torrington bearing idea), the coil end on the bottom of the main spring and the coil end on the top of the helper formed the perfect storm to put pressure on and split the plastic KW divider. I know that springs twist & spin a bit during use. Will the springs just spin as a pair now? My fear is the main spring will spin without the helper spinning with it, and it will break the divider in half, resulting in spring misalignment and the main spring dislodging and shooting downward at the shock body. Is this a legitimate concern, or is there no worries and "many have run just fine with something like this" … ???
My leaning is to remove both rear dampers and reinstall with with Genesis 60mm aircraft grade aluminum spring dividers, complete with torrington bearings. (hyper coil's plastic dividers look plenty strong, they aren't 60mm like everything else in this setup.) But if that's overreacting, I suppose I could leave it as is … just doesn't seem safe though. Here's the pic:
thx for any help,
Tom
My leaning is to remove both rear dampers and reinstall with with Genesis 60mm aircraft grade aluminum spring dividers, complete with torrington bearings. (hyper coil's plastic dividers look plenty strong, they aren't 60mm like everything else in this setup.) But if that's overreacting, I suppose I could leave it as is … just doesn't seem safe though. Here's the pic:
thx for any help,
Tom
#3
Thread Starter
Thx Steve, I would take them, yes. I was thinking of replacing them on both rears with another brand, but I could roll the dice it won't happen again and just replace the broken one. I'll pm you address
#4
I am going back and forth with keeping my Clubsports and just putting stiffer springs on them.
Is 2.5 ID 6" what I need? What rate did you go with on your v3s and did it make a considerable difference?
Is 2.5 ID 6" what I need? What rate did you go with on your v3s and did it make a considerable difference?
#5
Thread Starter
I did not experience the KW's without the stiffer springs. I researched & found that KW's can take up to 200 extra lbs of spring. I didn't want to max them out, so I went with 150# more in front & 100# more in rear, to give a little more tendency toward understeering for transitions in autocross. I'm a couple clicks off full stuff compression and they are still totally streetable. The reason I went with KW's over all the other stuff is control over low-speed compression, which even many $3,000 shocks don't give you. Yeah, the say double-adjustable but if you read the fine print, you're adjusting high-speed compression in many cases, which deals more with bumps and less with handling. So yeah, KW's are twin-tube, but they are double-adjustable, and better yet my compression changes actually affect my handling. 60mm 6" springs are what I used, yes. If I had your Clubsports, I'd run 700 front & your choice of 600/650/700 rear. Though stock spring rates on those I imagine would be pretty awesome for street / track dual duty
#6
Thanks for the info.
I actually experience tooo much roll with the "stock" set up. I was going through all my autox pics and I was like "damn, my fender is eating my tire" and I am going wider up front this season. I have a comptech v2 bar on full stiff as well. With about a 13" center of wheel to fender.
I was thinking of going to 700lb in the front and keeping the stock in the rear.
If they sell in the next week, I'll go with something else. If not I might experiment with spring changes.
I actually experience tooo much roll with the "stock" set up. I was going through all my autox pics and I was like "damn, my fender is eating my tire" and I am going wider up front this season. I have a comptech v2 bar on full stiff as well. With about a 13" center of wheel to fender.
I was thinking of going to 700lb in the front and keeping the stock in the rear.
If they sell in the next week, I'll go with something else. If not I might experiment with spring changes.
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#8
I found that 3 clicks off full stiff on compression f/r and 5 clicks F/7 clicks rear on rebound was the best I was going to get. I go 1 click more on rebound and its way too jarring when bumps are involved. Smooth roads its great, hit a bump mid corner and it skips.
This skipping mid corner was what originally got me in the mind set to get something else.
I didnt really stray away from 3 and 4 clicks from full stiff on the compression,....I remember I tried doing something different once when I got them and I didnt like it(even though I dont remember now WHAT it was that happened, I just knew never to do adjust that again hahah)
This skipping mid corner was what originally got me in the mind set to get something else.
I didnt really stray away from 3 and 4 clicks from full stiff on the compression,....I remember I tried doing something different once when I got them and I didnt like it(even though I dont remember now WHAT it was that happened, I just knew never to do adjust that again hahah)