Brembo BBK for the track
03-07-2013, 07:36 AM
#11
Registered User
Originally Posted by MMisencik157' timestamp='1362622986' post='22385869
[quote name='Driven' timestamp='1362622006' post='22385835']
speaking of bad proportioning... I have the stoptech kit on the front, stock rears. Past few track events, I've been running rear Autozone specials (duralast golds)... yes, the car is a bit sketch under hard braking, but it's manageable... I've managed to burn thru 2 sets of rear pads in about 5 track days... and since Autozone has lifetime warranties, I just returned the pads, got them replaced under warranty, walked out smiling.
Although the $190 XP10s would be nice to run with again, I can't really say they improved the braking significantly to warrant the extra cost.
Now if I was competing for money, different story.
speaking of bad proportioning... I have the stoptech kit on the front, stock rears. Past few track events, I've been running rear Autozone specials (duralast golds)... yes, the car is a bit sketch under hard braking, but it's manageable... I've managed to burn thru 2 sets of rear pads in about 5 track days... and since Autozone has lifetime warranties, I just returned the pads, got them replaced under warranty, walked out smiling.
Although the $190 XP10s would be nice to run with again, I can't really say they improved the braking significantly to warrant the extra cost.
Now if I was competing for money, different story.
OP- Are you asking about pads for street or track?
It will be for street use with some track days.. So even with the etra bite up front you still prefer the same pads front and rear?
[/quote]
Ill PM you about pads. But, your BBK should not have any extra stopping power than the OEM calipers if it was designed well (its Brembo... Im sure they did their homework). Therefore the bias shouldn't change from the stock setup. Most people with stock calipers prefer a staggered pad setup with a higher coefficient of friction up front for track. I have tried this and did like it for a little, but ended up going back to non-staggered pad compounds. For street though I doubt you would notice a difference unless you were really attacking a mountain road and trail braking heavily.
03-07-2013, 08:05 AM
#12
I did like the added stability in braking, but having paid $34 for essentially three sets of brake pads and without a huge detriment to braking power/modulation, I'm content.
Is it the fastest, nope. But it works almost as well.
03-07-2013, 08:28 AM
#13
Originally Posted by MMisencik157' timestamp='1362622986' post='22385869
I have the stoptech BBK on the front of my car and run XP10 all around. My rear XP10s have about 11 track days on them and will still be good for at least the next 2-3 days plus all the street miles the car sees.
I did like the added stability in braking, but having paid $34 for essentially three sets of brake pads and without a huge detriment to braking power/modulation, I'm content.
Is it the fastest, nope. But it works almost as well.
03-08-2013, 06:18 PM
#14
Registered User
This car can handle a ton of rear bias, Iv noticed on data that the car slows at its best rate (with oem caliper piston sizes and rotors) with equal pad compounds front and rear. Most that have the loose rear feeling on entry, are suffering from there front pads over heating and loosing bite. With that said the rear will feel squirly but the abs does a fantastic job on the rear (not so much the fronts). If you are comfortable dealing with the rear being at its limit, Your fastest rate of deceleration will come with a significant rear brake bias (even though having more front feels better). If you have increased your front piston size or rotor size, then you may really need to up your rear pad compound. On the other hand, if you are running a non aggressive pad up front, then your rear brakes are going to take over a lot of load, especially with the front not diving, that usually torches them pretty quick (iv done it). There used to be a seller of cobalt pads around, they were recommending xr1's or 2 up front and xr5's in rear... With a car with 50/50 weight bias, I couldnt see how this would be ideal, But theory aside I have tried it, And yes the car was stable, and front bite was still good, but the car could not decelerate anywhere near the rate it could when running a set of xr2's on the rear.
just my .02 sounds like your on the right track
just my .02 sounds like your on the right track
03-09-2013, 05:13 PM
#16
Former Moderator
There's some misinformation being discussed in this thread. You won't get any more stopping power from a big brake kit. The stock calipers can engage the ABS so there's no more stopping power to be had. What you do get is endurance and longevity from cooler brakes and pads.
The stock brake bias is set for wet/dry driving on the street on street tires. R-compound tires on a dry track cause much more weight transfer to the front tires under max braking so the rear tires get pretty light (similar to how racing motorcycles can lift their rear tire off the track). Since the rear tires are light their traction is very limited and they will cause ABS to engage. Any bias shift to the front with a BBK is a good thing for tracking with r-compound tires. As GT Motoring stated the heat of the rear brakes comes from solid disks and less air cooling and/or dragging calipers. Most guys running r-compound tires on the track run their rear brake pads 5 to 10 times longer than their front pads.
The stock brake bias is set for wet/dry driving on the street on street tires. R-compound tires on a dry track cause much more weight transfer to the front tires under max braking so the rear tires get pretty light (similar to how racing motorcycles can lift their rear tire off the track). Since the rear tires are light their traction is very limited and they will cause ABS to engage. Any bias shift to the front with a BBK is a good thing for tracking with r-compound tires. As GT Motoring stated the heat of the rear brakes comes from solid disks and less air cooling and/or dragging calipers. Most guys running r-compound tires on the track run their rear brake pads 5 to 10 times longer than their front pads.
03-09-2013, 10:00 PM
#17
Registered User
If you have increased your front piston size or rotor size, then you may really need to up your rear pad compound. On the other hand, if you are running a non aggressive pad up front, then your rear brakes are going to take over a lot of load, especially with the front not diving, that usually torches them pretty quick (iv done it). There used to be a seller of cobalt pads around, they were recommending xr1's or 2 up front and xr5's in rear...
With a car with 50/50 weight bias, I couldnt see how this would be ideal, But theory aside I have tried it, And yes the car was stable, and front bite was still good, but the car could not decelerate anywhere near the rate it could when running a set of xr2's on the rear.
just my .02 sounds like your on the right track
With a car with 50/50 weight bias, I couldnt see how this would be ideal, But theory aside I have tried it, And yes the car was stable, and front bite was still good, but the car could not decelerate anywhere near the rate it could when running a set of xr2's on the rear.
just my .02 sounds like your on the right track
i've tried lower compound at rear and it got worse.
next try will be to get higher rear compound.
my tires are stock stagger 215/245. this was the same on AD08 and R1R.
03-10-2013, 08:13 PM
#19
Originally Posted by Driven' timestamp='1362675944' post='22387083
[quote name='MMisencik157' timestamp='1362622986' post='22385869']
I have the stoptech BBK on the front of my car and run XP10 all around. My rear XP10s have about 11 track days on them and will still be good for at least the next 2-3 days plus all the street miles the car sees.
I have the stoptech BBK on the front of my car and run XP10 all around. My rear XP10s have about 11 track days on them and will still be good for at least the next 2-3 days plus all the street miles the car sees.
I did like the added stability in braking, but having paid $34 for essentially three sets of brake pads and without a huge detriment to braking power/modulation, I'm content.
Is it the fastest, nope. But it works almost as well.
[/quote]
There's a lot of truth in what you're saying, as this past weekend, I replaced a set of hubs and bearings that I had replaced in August of 2011.
Sure, a better pad will help alleviate SOME of the heat transfer, but, it's still going to be 400+ degrees...
This week, I'm going to be installing a set of rear brake ducts that I'll get to test out at Chuckwalla later this month. So, hopefully rear brake temps will be significantly reduced (and hopefully extended bearing/hub wear). I'll see how long I can get these cheapo rear pads to last!