sillyboybmxer

premiums for me.

ndogg

I have run the ctek for a few years now. They hold up well.

SpeedFreaksUSA

A quality 2-piece rotor like the GiroDisc or PFC option combined with ducting is really the best way to go short of a BBK for consistency and reliability. The 2-piece fully floating design and superior metallurgy alone allows them to last significantly longer than any single piece rotors but there are many more benefits they offer compared to much less expensive single piece rotors that makes them well worth the additional cost:

- Curved vane design flows more air through the disc and makes ducting much more effective. Cooler running rotors are more consistent and help pads and wheel bearings/hubs last longer, saving you money.
- 2-piece fully floating design keeps the rotor from warping or coning which reduces drag. Less drag means faster lap times and a cooler running brake system.
- Longer lasting rotors help keep you from missing track time (like you did today). Track time is expensive! Depending on how far you are traveling we could be talking about hotel costs in addition to the fuel, food, track fees etc. A good set of 2-piece rotors helps insure you actually get your track time after paying for everything to get there.
- If you can stomach the initial cost of the rotors you only have to buy the much less expensive replacement rings.

Cheap single piece rotors are tempting because of the (seemingly) low cost but you will find that you will have to change them very often. If you don't change them out preemptively then expect to do most of your rotor changes at the track in between sessions under a hot car... which isn't too much fun

-Matt M.

King Tut

If you already have 12 track weekends, I would definitely recommend stepping up from the Hawk HP+ pads. As an example, I was able to destroy a set of HP+ pads in less than one weekend. I would also recommend the cheap Centric blanks.

pmptx

Great advice right here.

Von_S2K

Thanks for the advice! I'm looking into either blanks or 2-piece... big $ difference.
So far I'm a single track driver... Have not been to any other track... YET. I drive to track and back. About 65 miles one way. So no hotel fees for me but gas...
Planning to head over to NCM (4-5 hour one way) sometime next year, I've heard that track's a blast!


Yeah... My first set of HP+ lasted about 7 weekends (With occasional weekend drives)... then the new set 2-3 weekends (Only track)...
I'm actually thinking about upgrading the pads together with the new rotors that I'll be buying..

What do you recommend is a good upgrade from HP+? DTC60?
Thanks!

King Tut

I am a huge PFC fan, so I would recommend the PFC08s from SpeedfreaksUSA.

SpeedFreaksUSA

Those really are the best ways to go. If you're going to get a single piece rotor then go with the cheapest blanks you can find but expect to change them fairly often. If you're looking at getting anything nicer skip all the high end single piece options and go straight to nice 2-piece fully floating rotor. Cheap blanks will be more cost effective if the person using them isn't tracking more than a handful of times per year BUT if you track the car more regularly, you will hit a tipping point where the 2-piece rotors will actually pay for themselves and save you money in the long run.

I also agree with King Tut that you may want to start looking into other options for brake pads- if you aren't there yet then I would imagine you're very close to growing out of capabilities of those pads as you continue to improve your pace on track.

We are still working with PFC to try and make more of their compounds for the stock S2000 calipers available but it's an uphill battle at the moment. They are flooded with other projects and inventory of their current PFC 97 and 11 front compounds and 97 rear compound of the S2000 pad shapes.

The good news is that we have plenty of excellent track compounds available. Some of the more popular options include:
Project Mu Club racer (my personal favorite so far)
Performance Friction 11 and 97
Carbotech XP8, XP10 and XP12
Cobalt XR2
Winmax W4 and W5
Endless ME20 and N35S
Ferodo DS1.11

Please let me know if you have any questions.

-Matt M.

will010100

I know you are not looking to buy a BBK now, but I want to give you something to think about before you commit too much down the OEM path.

A wise industrial engineer once told me,"If you need capital equipment now, but decide not to buy it, you're going to pay for it anyway and not have it." The same is true for a BBK. The pads and rotors last much longer and pads are less expensive with a BBK. Check out this link with a good ROI breakdown. https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/102...ap-racing-bbk/

Here is a review I wrote earlier this year. It explains the advantage of a BBK over OEM for drivers working on their brake zones. https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/1116261-/

Von_S2K

Thanks for all the kind advice!
And great write-up @will010100!

1 more thing I would like to add...
My car is pretty stock...ish

So no modification, stock power, stock suspension, stock ap1 wheels with RE11A (or similar), so I don't think I'm ready for BBK or R-comp yet.
Although I do think I'll be advancing up to the level next year. So these will be something to look into real soon.

By that time it would mean i need new set of wheels & suspension to accommodate the BBK.