Brake Pressure Sensor installation help
#1
Brake Pressure Sensor installation help
Has anyone here installed a brake pressure sensor in the oem S2000 brake system? Looking for some tips, tricks and a link to the adapters required. I've got an AEM 2000 psi sensor with a 1/8 npt male fitting. It's also got an 1/8npt to -3AN male fitting in the box. Link: http://www.aemelectronics.com/1000-p...sensor-kit-648
Don't know where to start on this one. I don't have hard pipe flare tools and don't have experience with this stuff. I need a simple and bulletproof installation. Not interested in doing a front and a rear sensor and a bias knob. I just need brake pressure to run through my datalogs and over the canbus.
I've found a miata guide and an e30 guide but I'm hesitant to follow them.
-Paddy
Don't know where to start on this one. I don't have hard pipe flare tools and don't have experience with this stuff. I need a simple and bulletproof installation. Not interested in doing a front and a rear sensor and a bias knob. I just need brake pressure to run through my datalogs and over the canbus.
I've found a miata guide and an e30 guide but I'm hesitant to follow them.
-Paddy
#2
The real question is, what piece do you want to cut up and replace. You'll need a flaring tool and a pipe bender, if you want to do it right (unless you do what I would want to do, more on that later)... and with brakes, you ALWAYS want to do it right.
I like being able to return things back to the OEM stuff if need-be, so I'd look at the system where there's already a regular disconnect and add in. Ie. front brake line where the hardline meets the flex line. Add in a short piece of pipe, flare it, add male/female fittings, tee off that piece, reinstall. But, it's up to you.
good luck and when you do get around to doing it, take photos!
#4
Just throw one of these in where your front brake line attaches to the hard line:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/9261...oductId=749392
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/9261...oductId=749392
#6
That fitting posted above does not fit anywhere in the stock system. I think you've got your fittings mixed up. I installed my 2000 psi stainless AEM sensor last month and tested it for the first time at the track today. Worked great. I installed it directly on to the master cylinder by drilling and tapping a 1/8 NPT hole in the end of the brake master cylinder. I didn't take a picture, but it's similar to this miata install : scroll down to see the pictures of the master cylinder. http://mazdaracers.com/topic/4180-br...-installation/
A quick rundown on how to do it:
1. Disconnect the 2 hardlines attached to the master
2. Remove the 2 mounting bolts that attach to the booster.
3. Remove the reservior from the master.
4. remove the snap ring on the end of the master to remove the plungers
5. The first plunger slides right out.
6. The 2nd plunger is retained by a pin that is removed from where the rearward reservior attaches to the master cylinder. A magnet will pull the pin vertically quite easily. Once the pin is removed the 2nd plunger will slide out with a little compressed air through the pin hole. You will need to push the plunger to release the pressure on the pin.
7. Drill the end of the master cylinder 11/32 drill bit for 1/8 NPT tap, drill a hole towards the top of the cylinder for clearance issues with the abs hard lines that sit in front of the master.
8. Tap the hole with 1/8 NPT
9. Clean the master in the parts washer. Thoroughly dry. Brake cleaner is fine too.
10. Install a 90 degree elbow into the newly tapped hole. One end male and one end female. Temporarily put a plug in the open end of the elbow.
11. Bench bleed the master with a master bleed kit (parts stores have these) link to how to do it :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEPXgDGU6_0
12. Install the master on the car
13. Remove your plug and install the sensor.
14. Bleed the master again.
15. Connect the hardlines
16. Bleed the master at the hardline connections.
I wired it into my dash logger. pin 1 is 0 Volt reference, pin 2 is 5 volt, pin 3 is sensor signal. It's a variable voltage input. Calibrate the sensor according to the data sheet provided with the sensor, done. Max pressure I saw was about 1150 psi on track.
Next up is steering position sensor....
A quick rundown on how to do it:
1. Disconnect the 2 hardlines attached to the master
2. Remove the 2 mounting bolts that attach to the booster.
3. Remove the reservior from the master.
4. remove the snap ring on the end of the master to remove the plungers
5. The first plunger slides right out.
6. The 2nd plunger is retained by a pin that is removed from where the rearward reservior attaches to the master cylinder. A magnet will pull the pin vertically quite easily. Once the pin is removed the 2nd plunger will slide out with a little compressed air through the pin hole. You will need to push the plunger to release the pressure on the pin.
7. Drill the end of the master cylinder 11/32 drill bit for 1/8 NPT tap, drill a hole towards the top of the cylinder for clearance issues with the abs hard lines that sit in front of the master.
8. Tap the hole with 1/8 NPT
9. Clean the master in the parts washer. Thoroughly dry. Brake cleaner is fine too.
10. Install a 90 degree elbow into the newly tapped hole. One end male and one end female. Temporarily put a plug in the open end of the elbow.
11. Bench bleed the master with a master bleed kit (parts stores have these) link to how to do it :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEPXgDGU6_0
12. Install the master on the car
13. Remove your plug and install the sensor.
14. Bleed the master again.
15. Connect the hardlines
16. Bleed the master at the hardline connections.
I wired it into my dash logger. pin 1 is 0 Volt reference, pin 2 is 5 volt, pin 3 is sensor signal. It's a variable voltage input. Calibrate the sensor according to the data sheet provided with the sensor, done. Max pressure I saw was about 1150 psi on track.
Next up is steering position sensor....
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DarthPaulUK
UK & Ireland S2000 Community
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02-27-2005 02:36 AM