Brake Fluid & Brake Pads
#11
Originally Posted by 8kGoodENuff,Feb 10 2009, 11:05 AM
When it's a 100 degrees out... I think it would make a difference no?
I really don't think it's the braking technique. How much of your braking technique can you change in Auto-X to actually make a difference? It could have been something else, maybe low fluid?
Andre
I really don't think it's the braking technique. How much of your braking technique can you change in Auto-X to actually make a difference? It could have been something else, maybe low fluid?
Andre
Brakes simply change momentum into heat. You have far less momentum in AX, basically glorified street (less than a fast canyon run). At the track it is V^2, which is vastly more momentum and thus vastly more heat. If I or anyone else can lap all day from 100+ mph to 20 2-4x a lap, on the stock pads and fluid and not fade--- it is your fluid.
I tend to ease on and off the pads more on the track than ax, which is more blitz. I have never faded in AX in 18 years.
#12
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by macr88,Feb 10 2009, 03:12 PM
Was the pedal soft or was there a lack of bite?
The brake pedal felt like mush, so I'd press the pedal and it would almost hit the floor and I would almost plow through the turn since it wasn't stopping, so I guess no bite from the mushy pedal.
And I'm assuming that all leads to the fluid since it felt mushy.
Andre
#13
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Originally Posted by INTJ,Feb 10 2009, 11:00 AM
I have slammed the track for 20-40 minute sessions and not had stock pad fade.
#14
The one time I used ATE Superblue I got a softish/longish pedal on day two at Watkins Glen. I get better track performance out of off-the-shelf Valvoline synthetic DOT4.
YMMV...
Regarding pads, stockers in my experience weren't quite up to the track. If I *had* to have a pad do it all, I'd go with Carbotech XP8's or possibly Hawk HP+ (NOT HPS!).
YMMV...
Regarding pads, stockers in my experience weren't quite up to the track. If I *had* to have a pad do it all, I'd go with Carbotech XP8's or possibly Hawk HP+ (NOT HPS!).
#15
Former Moderator
Originally Posted by 8kGoodENuff,Feb 10 2009, 12:16 PM
And I'm assuming that all leads to the fluid since it felt mushy.
Andre
Andre
Pad fade will still have a firm pedal and I'm guessing if you keep on them it could lead to the fluid boiling.
#16
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Originally Posted by ZDan,Feb 10 2009, 04:55 PM
The one time I used ATE Superblue I got a softish/longish pedal on day two at Watkins Glen. I get better track performance out of off-the-shelf Valvoline synthetic DOT4.
YMMV...
Regarding pads, stockers in my experience weren't quite up to the track. If I *had* to have a pad do it all, I'd go with Carbotech XP8's or possibly Hawk HP+ (NOT HPS!).
YMMV...
Regarding pads, stockers in my experience weren't quite up to the track. If I *had* to have a pad do it all, I'd go with Carbotech XP8's or possibly Hawk HP+ (NOT HPS!).
I definitely agree about OEM pads. I make the mistake of using OEM pads on my first track day. I had to deal with brake fade towards the end of ever session. When I got home and inspected the pads, they were a ghostly white color and were on the verge of falling apart.
#17
Former Moderator
Originally Posted by INTJ,Feb 10 2009, 12:14 PM
I'm in Cali, 100F is a pleasant summer day, no differences at all. Green pad fade is rare, basically only brand new pads or really crap pads. All the rest of the fade is due to fluid boiling due to water. If you have had the stock fluid in there for more than a year it is the fluid for certain.
Brakes simply change momentum into heat. You have far less momentum in AX, basically glorified street (less than a fast canyon run). At the track it is V^2, which is vastly more momentum and thus vastly more heat. If I or anyone else can lap all day from 100+ mph to 20 2-4x a lap, on the stock pads and fluid and not fade--- it is your fluid.
I tend to ease on and off the pads more on the track than ax, which is more blitz. I have never faded in AX in 18 years.
Brakes simply change momentum into heat. You have far less momentum in AX, basically glorified street (less than a fast canyon run). At the track it is V^2, which is vastly more momentum and thus vastly more heat. If I or anyone else can lap all day from 100+ mph to 20 2-4x a lap, on the stock pads and fluid and not fade--- it is your fluid.
I tend to ease on and off the pads more on the track than ax, which is more blitz. I have never faded in AX in 18 years.
As far as telling someone stock pads are fine on the track is not safe for that person. Tracks, driver skill all play a roll.
I ran XP-8's in front and pretty new stock rears and the rears were completely gone after 4 20 minute sessions.
#18
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ZDan,Feb 10 2009, 08:55 PM
Regarding pads, stockers in my experience weren't quite up to the track. If I *had* to have a pad do it all, I'd go with Carbotech XP8's
Worse case scenario would be if I just get OEMs for street and race pads and just swap in the pads the day before a track or Auto-X day.
Andre
#19
I've used Ferodo DS2500 as a dual purpose pad, and I thought very highly of them. They don't feel as good as OEM on the street because they need to heat up a little to work effectively, though even when cold they do stop you just fine. On track and when hot they feel excellent! They are consistent to around 1000 degrees.
In the future, I will probably use dedicated track pads, but then that brings up the question of swapping rotors too. Ultimately, it depends on how much free time you have, what tracks you go to, and how fast you drive the car (ie. are you using street tires?)
As for fluid, I use ATE and like it, although I have boiled it at the track (this track is notoriously hard on brakes) while using rcompounds and those ferodo pads. I've used Motul RBF600 (which is a DOT4) and Motul 5.1, the 5.1 is fine with a mild brake and tire setup, but the RBF600 is the one that really shines... I have never boiled this fluid. It's expensive though, and yes it absorbs a lot of moisture, so even if you never boil the fluid the pedal will get soft over time and you need to rebleed every few months.
In the future, I will probably use dedicated track pads, but then that brings up the question of swapping rotors too. Ultimately, it depends on how much free time you have, what tracks you go to, and how fast you drive the car (ie. are you using street tires?)
As for fluid, I use ATE and like it, although I have boiled it at the track (this track is notoriously hard on brakes) while using rcompounds and those ferodo pads. I've used Motul RBF600 (which is a DOT4) and Motul 5.1, the 5.1 is fine with a mild brake and tire setup, but the RBF600 is the one that really shines... I have never boiled this fluid. It's expensive though, and yes it absorbs a lot of moisture, so even if you never boil the fluid the pedal will get soft over time and you need to rebleed every few months.
#20
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jcbarnard,Feb 11 2009, 10:49 AM
I've used Ferodo DS2500 as a dual purpose pad, and I thought very highly of them. They don't feel as good as OEM on the street because they need to heat up a little to work effectively, though even when cold they do stop you just fine. On track and when hot they feel excellent! They are consistent to around 1000 degrees.
In the future, I will probably use dedicated track pads, but then that brings up the question of swapping rotors too. Ultimately, it depends on how much free time you have, what tracks you go to, and how fast you drive the car (ie. are you using street tires?)
In the future, I will probably use dedicated track pads, but then that brings up the question of swapping rotors too. Ultimately, it depends on how much free time you have, what tracks you go to, and how fast you drive the car (ie. are you using street tires?)
1. Do you get a lot of brake dust?
2. Do they squeal a lot under street conditions?
For tires, I'm using summer performance tires (Azenis RT-615s 225f/255r), so they have good grip but they're not R-compounds.
Andre