Best Shocks for Autocross
#1
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Best Shocks for Autocross
My shocks are about gone. I think.
In my 85,000 mile car, with street tires, and the Comptech bar at full stiff, I get inside rear wheel spin at half throttle (4000 rpms) coming out of turns. That can't be good. I am blaming it on the shocks. Do you think I'm right, or wrong?
So I started looking. However, I have noticed that most of the info, is not recent. After reading the FAQ and the using search function, I have now few questions for the ones in the know:
1. What shocks do the latest top Stock class National runners used in the last couple of years?
2. Who did the valving for them?
Thank you gentleman (and ladies, if any).
In my 85,000 mile car, with street tires, and the Comptech bar at full stiff, I get inside rear wheel spin at half throttle (4000 rpms) coming out of turns. That can't be good. I am blaming it on the shocks. Do you think I'm right, or wrong?
So I started looking. However, I have noticed that most of the info, is not recent. After reading the FAQ and the using search function, I have now few questions for the ones in the know:
1. What shocks do the latest top Stock class National runners used in the last couple of years?
2. Who did the valving for them?
Thank you gentleman (and ladies, if any).
#2
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How much do you want to spend?
Options include: stock, Konis, Penske, Moton, and JRZ
There is quite a price range there. Were you winning events with your existing setup?
Options include: stock, Konis, Penske, Moton, and JRZ
There is quite a price range there. Were you winning events with your existing setup?
#3
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Personally, it would not be worth it to me to buy JRZs just to compete in A-stock. I would rather get nice coilovers for much less money, which seem to be more versatile to me.
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If you're like me, you've noticed the two choices
1)$5k+ for high dollar double adjustable
2)$600 for Koni single adjustable that may or may not help.
I didn't accept that answer. Eventually I came accross TCKline http://www.tcdesignfab.com/products.html, who developed a double adjustable with Koni. I'm afraid to quote price because it varied throughout the development, but let's just say it is less than 1/2 the price of other double adjustables.
I've been using them for about 6 mos and they are a world better than the Konis. The only negatives I would give are:
-You get a "clunk" at low speeds that Koni is aware of but can't fix. It is an audible nuesance that no passengers have noticed, but I do.
- They were developed more for T2 so they aren't quite as stiff as I would have designed for autox. I run rear full soft compression, full stiff rebound so I don't have any more room for adjustment in the back. I use tire pressure and front shock settings for car set-up.
-Some minor fit and part issues that were easly remedied in my garage.
1)$5k+ for high dollar double adjustable
2)$600 for Koni single adjustable that may or may not help.
I didn't accept that answer. Eventually I came accross TCKline http://www.tcdesignfab.com/products.html, who developed a double adjustable with Koni. I'm afraid to quote price because it varied throughout the development, but let's just say it is less than 1/2 the price of other double adjustables.
I've been using them for about 6 mos and they are a world better than the Konis. The only negatives I would give are:
-You get a "clunk" at low speeds that Koni is aware of but can't fix. It is an audible nuesance that no passengers have noticed, but I do.
- They were developed more for T2 so they aren't quite as stiff as I would have designed for autox. I run rear full soft compression, full stiff rebound so I don't have any more room for adjustment in the back. I use tire pressure and front shock settings for car set-up.
-Some minor fit and part issues that were easly remedied in my garage.
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How much do I WANT to spend?
Nothing. Zero. Nada.
Unfortunately, I haven't found a vendor who gives shocks away. :-)
How much can I AFFORD to spend?
As much as I need to, to be a top contender (I'm asking only about shocks, since I've been also working on driving skills, tires, wheels, bar, weight, etc). But I don't want to throw my money away either. If it's going to give me 0.1 sec over new stock shocks, I rather try to make that up with skill alone. :-)
Was I winning events?
Not really. Only once. But only local events. This is my second year autocrossing and do about 4-5 events a year. I just started on 2 year-old Hoosiers (stored outside during the winter). On street tires, no bar, I was always within two seconds of the top times. Now I'm within half a second of the top times. But I feel the wheelspin is killing me. I feel I lose so much time on exit. I haven't traveled for regional events. I guess they would eat me alive for dinner.
Nothing. Zero. Nada.
Unfortunately, I haven't found a vendor who gives shocks away. :-)
How much can I AFFORD to spend?
As much as I need to, to be a top contender (I'm asking only about shocks, since I've been also working on driving skills, tires, wheels, bar, weight, etc). But I don't want to throw my money away either. If it's going to give me 0.1 sec over new stock shocks, I rather try to make that up with skill alone. :-)
Was I winning events?
Not really. Only once. But only local events. This is my second year autocrossing and do about 4-5 events a year. I just started on 2 year-old Hoosiers (stored outside during the winter). On street tires, no bar, I was always within two seconds of the top times. Now I'm within half a second of the top times. But I feel the wheelspin is killing me. I feel I lose so much time on exit. I haven't traveled for regional events. I guess they would eat me alive for dinner.
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Originally Posted by jasonw,Oct 23 2006, 10:09 AM
Unless you are planning to compete in enough events to win, I would just stick with stock.
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#8
Originally Posted by Naka,Oct 23 2006, 02:05 PM
This is my second year autocrossing and do about 4-5 events a year.
I just started on 2 year-old Hoosiers (stored outside during the winter).
I just started on 2 year-old Hoosiers (stored outside during the winter).
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I'm guessing your wheelspin is from lack of traction on old tires, not from lifting the inside wheel from too much grip.
I'd have to say your money would be better spent on fresh Hoosiers
Unless you are planning to compete in enough events to win, I would just stick with stock.
I never take the S to the track. However, I want to have it well set up for autocross for when I have time, so I can go and compete with the fast guys and at least have a chance to win.
Spending money on stock shocks, to later on, have to change them again for aftermarket ones doesn't attract me that much. I like to commit to one change and stick to it. I can afford any shock out there, so buying the cheapest for now is not something I need to do. However, I want to spend my money wisely. I would not just buy the greatest and latest just because is 0.0001 sec faster. Skill alone is much more cost effective I think.
I use double adjustable Koni coilovers on my race car (BMW M3) so I'm familiar with setting a car up for changing driving conditions. I love those shocks since they are so streetable as well. However, TC Kline has great experience racing these shocks and their valving on BMW's is just perfect. That's how I know that just buying the shocks doesn't garantee the best set up. Proper valving is just as important.
I don't want to re-invent the wheel with the S2000. The National front runners have already done so. I bet they know what works and what doesn't. I just need to know what they have and who does the valving for them. Just like in road racing: use what the fast cars are using. Driver's aside, you can always tell who's using better equipment.
Here, I read good things about the Moton's, but I also noticed that that information is almost 3 years old. I suppose other shock companies may have come up with similar performance enhancing products or even the valving may have been optimized by now, to make them just as good.
I will replace my shocks. I just don't want to spend $6000 is there is something better or less expensive out there.
Thanks a lot guys for your inputs. This is great board.
#10
I have motons and I haven't had any inside wheelspin since I installed them. I've run about 3/4 of this season on them and all I know is that I have a friend with penskes and he can't get rid of his wheel spin.
I think that the Motons are better valved than the penskes, are easier to adjust and offer a wider range or adjustment which is good for rain because you can get them pretty loose.
I think that the Motons are better valved than the penskes, are easier to adjust and offer a wider range or adjustment which is good for rain because you can get them pretty loose.