Best brake pads for street and track usage?
#11
Originally Posted by cthree,Apr 27 2006, 08:05 PM
There is no such thing as a street/race pad because they operate under very different conditions.
Track pads = hard, corrosive, dirty, can take repeated abuse, hard on rotors, squeal like a stuffed pig, drag, don't work well until they heat up, can stop you on a dime, crumble and break up when driven on the street.
Street pads = softer, easier on wheels, less dirty, quieter, easier on rotors, wear quickly with repeated abuse, glaze, breakup and wear completely off when driven on the track.
There is no pad which does everything. Somewhere you compromise. The best thing to do is change between race and OE pads. It's the cheapest solution and is extremely quick with practice (wheels off it's 4 minutes each front, 8 minutes each rear). It's also the most economical way to have both.
Save the SS lines and get an extra set or rotors instead. SS line are worthless bling; I know first hand.
Track pads = hard, corrosive, dirty, can take repeated abuse, hard on rotors, squeal like a stuffed pig, drag, don't work well until they heat up, can stop you on a dime, crumble and break up when driven on the street.
Street pads = softer, easier on wheels, less dirty, quieter, easier on rotors, wear quickly with repeated abuse, glaze, breakup and wear completely off when driven on the track.
There is no pad which does everything. Somewhere you compromise. The best thing to do is change between race and OE pads. It's the cheapest solution and is extremely quick with practice (wheels off it's 4 minutes each front, 8 minutes each rear). It's also the most economical way to have both.
Save the SS lines and get an extra set or rotors instead. SS line are worthless bling; I know first hand.
I am looking forward to tracking my S.
Thanks again.
#12
Originally Posted by MDXLuvr,Apr 27 2006, 10:46 PM
Cobalt Friction GT sports. IMHO a great pad for a street/track use.
#13
Originally Posted by cthree,Apr 27 2006, 08:05 PM
There is no such thing as a street/race pad because they operate under very different conditions.
<snip>
There is no pad which does everything. Somewhere you compromise. The best thing to do is change between race and OE pads. It's the cheapest solution and is extremely quick with practice (wheels off it's 4 minutes each front, 8 minutes each rear). It's also the most economical way to have both.
<snip>
There is no pad which does everything. Somewhere you compromise. The best thing to do is change between race and OE pads. It's the cheapest solution and is extremely quick with practice (wheels off it's 4 minutes each front, 8 minutes each rear). It's also the most economical way to have both.
The biggest problem I had with switching pads was severe vibration from incompatible brake pad compounds. It took two sessions before the track pad removed the street compound from the rotor surface, and it absolutley sucked for those laps. And trying to remove the track compound with the street pad never worked.
Granted it depends which types of pads you use for track and street. It seems that you have two sets of pads that are compatible, but my luck wasn't as good. That's why whenever I did use track pads, I also switched out the rotors, which took that much longer.
Bassem
#14
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Redmond, Washington, USA
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Originally Posted by SC_Highlander,Apr 28 2006, 05:33 AM
How is the noise on your GT Sports? Mine are quiet when I hit brakes hard, but at lighter pressure, like rolling up to a stopsign at 10-15mph, they are painful!
I now use Cobalt Spec VR on the front, and Spec VX on the rear. I believe that I save money in the long run, since my GT Sports last forever in street/autocross use, and the full race pads are better at stopping my car on the track.
#15
Originally Posted by SC_Highlander,Apr 28 2006, 04:33 AM
How is the noise on your GT Sports? Mine are quiet when I hit brakes hard, but at lighter pressure, like rolling up to a stopsign at 10-15mph, they are painful!
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