Basic Track Car
#31
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Originally Posted by Balance_Point,Feb 4 2006, 09:49 PM
What is the offset for the front wheel w/245? They will not rub with rolling the front fender and spring/shock only? Is this with a very aggressive alignment or will the euro specs due?
I run max camber but because we adjust our camber from the lower a-arm it doesn't really move the top of the wheel that much.
#32
I'd like to hear Rob (Maxrev) chime in also as he has a unique setup that performs very well without "premium" aftermarket parts, and he's tested a few different things.
#34
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The stock wheels can always be used if I ran a Speedventures event. CFRA has three tire classifications FYI. >140, 50 to 140, and <50 which includes full slicks. So basically you either run full slicks or Toyo RA1's. I'm thinking RA1's, but reserve the right to change to slicks depending on the stars and moon (And who is in the class that year.) As far as the spec series goes, that sounds fun. What is going to be allowed?
I've searched on oil starvation, but didn't find much except for when you guys run on the banked ovals of Cal Speedway, etc... Have you had problems at other tracks? Even with the slicks? The baffled oil pan and accusump seem cheap insurance, but only if their needed.
The longest/worst oil starvation corner in N. Ca is T2 at Thunderhill. It's short enough accusumps are usually fine.
Bill
I've searched on oil starvation, but didn't find much except for when you guys run on the banked ovals of Cal Speedway, etc... Have you had problems at other tracks? Even with the slicks? The baffled oil pan and accusump seem cheap insurance, but only if their needed.
The longest/worst oil starvation corner in N. Ca is T2 at Thunderhill. It's short enough accusumps are usually fine.
Bill
#35
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The oil starvation problems were mainly a concern on slicks. I wouldn't worry about it very much on RA1s or on the Norcal tracks.
You have the option of a baffled oilpan and and/or an accusump, but I think you'll be fine on RA1s. Then again an accusump is cheap insurance.
-Ry
You have the option of a baffled oilpan and and/or an accusump, but I think you'll be fine on RA1s. Then again an accusump is cheap insurance.
-Ry
#36
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The only place I can think of that an Accusump isn't enough on a high-grip car is Cal Speedway and I don't recomnend driving there anyway. The infield is one of the most boring layouts I know of. And the oval is only cool to try for the pucker factor once. Once you know how fast you should take it, it's kinda just long and boring and hard on your car.
#37
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One thing you'll like and the S2000 is that it's easy and reasonably cheap to maintain. It's a very simple car with few doodads. It's got it's weaknesses like any car but overall you should find it to be reliable enough for daily driving and moderate track use. Slicks will really raise the bar in terms of the amount of load leading to oil starvation problems and rear hub failures. The car isn't really designed to run slicks which can be said about any production car.
I personally prefer 17" wheels because there are fewer clearance problems and the tires are cheaper by a significant margin. The higher sidewall also makes them less prone to damage. Everyone will have their own preferences I suspect.
Good luck with it!
I personally prefer 17" wheels because there are fewer clearance problems and the tires are cheaper by a significant margin. The higher sidewall also makes them less prone to damage. Everyone will have their own preferences I suspect.
Good luck with it!
#39
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Looking for an S2000 now. Parts come next. if anybody knows of a nice red/black/grey car preferably with hardtop let me know.
Now on to tires:
275 and 245's. Toyo only sells
275x35x18 and 245x40x18? This looks to be about .75" taller than stock. Is this the setup with Toyo's?
Now on to tires:
275 and 245's. Toyo only sells
275x35x18 and 245x40x18? This looks to be about .75" taller than stock. Is this the setup with Toyo's?
#40
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yup thats the one. the gearing change isn't that big of a deal.
You of course can change the final drive (we use the same size'd r&p as many mazdas) so thats fairly cheap. but not a required.
-Ry
You of course can change the final drive (we use the same size'd r&p as many mazdas) so thats fairly cheap. but not a required.
-Ry