Alignment Suggestions for ButtonWillow
#1
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Alignment Suggestions for ButtonWillow
Hi all,
I'm about to get my alignment setup for Buttonwillow later next month. I'm not sure what to go with tho so i was hoping you guys could help me out. Right now, the car is slammed, so I'll need to raise it up quite a bit. Here's my wheel suspension setup at the moment:
Suspension: JIC FLT-TAR2's (12k/10k)
Wheels: Volk TE-37's - 17x9 +35 front, 17x9 +22 rear
Tires: 255/40/17 Nitto NT-05's all around.
How high should I raise the car up? What alignment specs would be "safe" to use as a starting point for BW?
I took the car to BW earlier this year with the car slammed to the floor and it handled like crap haha. Hoping I can get it semi decent this time time around.
THanks for looking
I'm about to get my alignment setup for Buttonwillow later next month. I'm not sure what to go with tho so i was hoping you guys could help me out. Right now, the car is slammed, so I'll need to raise it up quite a bit. Here's my wheel suspension setup at the moment:
Suspension: JIC FLT-TAR2's (12k/10k)
Wheels: Volk TE-37's - 17x9 +35 front, 17x9 +22 rear
Tires: 255/40/17 Nitto NT-05's all around.
How high should I raise the car up? What alignment specs would be "safe" to use as a starting point for BW?
I took the car to BW earlier this year with the car slammed to the floor and it handled like crap haha. Hoping I can get it semi decent this time time around.
THanks for looking
#2
I'm not in Cali, and I'm sure the Cali track dogs can help out better for the specific track, but I've always used a modified UK alignment.
6.5 castor
-1.5 camber (i can't get any more camber with that much castor up front)
0 toe
1/8th total toe-in
-3 camber in the rear
As for ride height, I lower it until I have the lower control arms parallel with the ground. Any more, and I feel like I'm compromising too much on suspension geometry. Good luck!
6.5 castor
-1.5 camber (i can't get any more camber with that much castor up front)
0 toe
1/8th total toe-in
-3 camber in the rear
As for ride height, I lower it until I have the lower control arms parallel with the ground. Any more, and I feel like I'm compromising too much on suspension geometry. Good luck!
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
The rear sounds about right. I'm probably going to have to go more camber int he front tho since i'm running 255's. How big a gap do you think you have with the suspension arms parallel? is the pick in your sig reflective of your current height?
#4
Yah, it is. I'd say about 1 finger gap all-around.
You can run more static camber, but you sacrifice castor. The more castor you have, the more dynamic camber you will have when you turn the wheel - which is more important than static camber.
You can run more static camber, but you sacrifice castor. The more castor you have, the more dynamic camber you will have when you turn the wheel - which is more important than static camber.
#5
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Location: Bay Area, California
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Originally Posted by PilotSi,Dec 30 2009, 03:56 PM
You can run more static camber, but you sacrifice castor. The more castor you have, the more dynamic camber you will have when you turn the wheel - which is more important than static camber.
#6
Buttonwillow has everything, which is why it is such a popular course. tight corners, high speed sweepers, etc.. not super twisty, not high hp course.
I don't think -1.5 is close to being enough. I can't get my pyrometer reading close till I am at least -3. since your car is lowered, I think you can get to -3 no problem.
as for ride height, it is a lot more complicated. but I would err on running higher rather than lower.
I don't think -1.5 is close to being enough. I can't get my pyrometer reading close till I am at least -3. since your car is lowered, I think you can get to -3 no problem.
as for ride height, it is a lot more complicated. but I would err on running higher rather than lower.
#7
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Originally Posted by bellwilliam,Dec 30 2009, 05:44 PM
I don't think -1.5 is close to being enough. I can't get my pyrometer reading close till I am at least -3. since your car is lowered, I think you can get to -3 no problem.
I'm running -2.5 up front and it's not enough.
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah...i was leaning towards going -3 all around. I think my biggest struggle is with the height. I'll miss being slammed xD
Thanks for the input!
Thanks for the input!
#10
Its so hard to get a base line since you have after market fenders and what not, but I would ask billy since he takes measurements from the jacking points for consistency, he should be able to give you pointers on where your ride height should be.
As far as alignment, I would run at least 3 degrees front and rear. You can get away with a pretty good amount of rear camber since our cars have little torque to spin the tires. I'll be running -3.5/3.5 next time out, with like 8 degrees of castor
-Dino
As far as alignment, I would run at least 3 degrees front and rear. You can get away with a pretty good amount of rear camber since our cars have little torque to spin the tires. I'll be running -3.5/3.5 next time out, with like 8 degrees of castor
-Dino