Alignment settings to help control oversteer.
#1
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Alignment settings to help control oversteer.
Recently I decided to formally try my hand at autoxing. I ended up getting some Hoosiers, and the 31.8mm Mugen swaybar. I know the hardcore guys think its not stiff enough and I'm ok with that for now. I'm not looking to win nationals or anything. (No offense, but I don't need 10 replies of, 'change the swaybar.' I know a stiff bar will further reduce oversteer)
Recently I also had a more autox friendly alignment done:
Front: -1.6 camber, 0 toe
Rear: -2.25 camber, .25 toe (toe out, correct)
Generally the car feels very good on the road and at an autox event. However, I threw it into a turn a little too hard, compensation for being out of sequence at the last event, and managed to spin. Generally I like to have a balanced/slight oversteering car.
Should I go to a 0 toe setting on the rear wheels to help reduce my oversteer, or ??? I'm not well versed in alignment setting and what they do. I wasn't able to locate much of anything helpful when I searched either.
Thanks...
Recently I also had a more autox friendly alignment done:
Front: -1.6 camber, 0 toe
Rear: -2.25 camber, .25 toe (toe out, correct)
Generally the car feels very good on the road and at an autox event. However, I threw it into a turn a little too hard, compensation for being out of sequence at the last event, and managed to spin. Generally I like to have a balanced/slight oversteering car.
Should I go to a 0 toe setting on the rear wheels to help reduce my oversteer, or ??? I'm not well versed in alignment setting and what they do. I wasn't able to locate much of anything helpful when I searched either.
Thanks...
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I sure hope that's not toe out in the rear. Have you tried tire pressures first? If you want to try to fix it with alignment, I'd suggesting maxing out rear camber and not "throwing" the car into the turn so hard. Race tires are not very forgiving when you go over their adhesion limits, so they require even more smoothness than a street tire would.
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Well the toe reading on my sheet is 0.25.
Its not -0.25. What should it be? I'm not an alignment expert, I was only trying to follow what info I found here. If its wrong let me know so I can get it fixed!
Its not -0.25. What should it be? I'm not an alignment expert, I was only trying to follow what info I found here. If its wrong let me know so I can get it fixed!
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Rear toe-in is the most disagreed-on part of the alignment, as far as I can tell. 1/4" in is about average. I think for some reason they use positive to indicate toe-in for the rear but toe-out for the front. You're probably fine.
#6
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I agree - if you had toe-out, you probably would have spun more easily at other points. Since you have the Hoosiers (I assume the 225/245 sizes) and only the Mugen bar, I'd suggest MORE toe-in to help keep the rear in check. However, what tire pressures are you using?
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I was running 37/36 with new A3S04s.
I was thinking about doing 40/36 possibly this weekend.
So you think I should be be more than a .25 toe in on the rear?
I was thinking about doing 40/36 possibly this weekend.
So you think I should be be more than a .25 toe in on the rear?
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#9
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Try the tire pressures first - doesn't cost a thing. If you can't control oversteer (assuming you're driving properly) then change the alignment. I think you're alignment is just fine and any other tweaking would just be fine-tuning...
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I prefer road racing to autox. I have much much more experience doing that.
I'm going to try the tire pressures and go from there. I suppose if I really got sick of it I could switch to the smaller front Hoosier.
I'm going to try the tire pressures and go from there. I suppose if I really got sick of it I could switch to the smaller front Hoosier.