alignement problem
05-31-2012, 05:25 AM
#12
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the craddle to chassis mounting bolt holes are much bigger than the bolts, the craddle is moving around the bolts, i installed Spoons shim kit, got them go-tunning (tommy?)seems to be much better know.
05-31-2012, 05:40 AM
#13
Former Moderator
Advice??
If you are trying to maximize your camber in the front simply set the camber and caster adjusters to max outward extension (move the bottom of the wheel hub outward). Then tweak the adjusters on the wheel with the most caster and camber to match the other wheel. Once the caster and camber are set adjust the toe. Doing this will give you the optimal setting of camber and caster.
If you are trying to maximize your camber in the rear start with both adjusters set for maximum outward extension (move the bottom of the wheel hub outward). The toe setting is usually the limiting factor so leave them set for maximum outward extension and use the camber adjusters to set the toe. Tweak the wheel with the most negative camber to set the camber equal on both sides. Then set the toe using both wheels' camber adjusters. You may have to use the toe adjusters too but primarily use the camber adjusters to set the toe.
If you are trying to maximize your camber in the rear start with both adjusters set for maximum outward extension (move the bottom of the wheel hub outward). The toe setting is usually the limiting factor so leave them set for maximum outward extension and use the camber adjusters to set the toe. Tweak the wheel with the most negative camber to set the camber equal on both sides. Then set the toe using both wheels' camber adjusters. You may have to use the toe adjusters too but primarily use the camber adjusters to set the toe.
06-03-2012, 01:08 AM
#14
Happens to me all the time. After a few hundred miles my steering wheel is off center as well.
However, the car still tracks straight. This doesn't necessarily mean the alignment is out of adjustment though, does it?
However, the car still tracks straight. This doesn't necessarily mean the alignment is out of adjustment though, does it?
06-03-2012, 01:10 AM
#15
Not wanting to thread jack. Couldn't find a pinned alignment thread. So i have a lifetime alignment at Firestone. I do as many hpde as i can. Have on this sat. Big willow. Just got some RS-3 225/255/17. Went ta get alignment done. This is what i got...
Camber. Caster. Toe
FL. -1.9. 5.9. 0
FR. -1.5. 5.3. 0.02
LR. -2.0. 0.04
RR. -2.9. 0.03
the tech ( an s2k owner) said he could get them to match up. Advice?? How do i get more camber in rear? Have thurs
Fri. Ta go back b4 my track day on sat. Please chim in
Thanks!
Camber. Caster. Toe
FL. -1.9. 5.9. 0
FR. -1.5. 5.3. 0.02
LR. -2.0. 0.04
RR. -2.9. 0.03
the tech ( an s2k owner) said he could get them to match up. Advice?? How do i get more camber in rear? Have thurs
Fri. Ta go back b4 my track day on sat. Please chim in
Thanks!
06-03-2012, 07:52 AM
#17
It appears from most peoples viewpoint that it's because some bolts "slip", and you just have to really crank them down tight. Real tight. Is that correct?
06-03-2012, 09:31 AM
#18
usually if your steering wheel is off center but the car tracks perfectly straight that means the alignment guy didn't do a good job of straightening the steering wheel during the aligment. So if the steering wheel is straight on your next alignment most likely your numbers will be good except your front toe will look like LF -0.5 RF 0.5 or something like that.
If this is the case, then it doesn't actually affect the car, just means that your steering wheel is off center. This isn't a problem unless you have an 06+, and it might throw a VSA light.
Edit: but it's also possible other things are going on, like you have uneven toe in the rear pushing you to the left, and by compensating by steering to the right you're cancelling it out. This will hurt the car's handling. So best thing to do is to take it in regardless.
If this is the case, then it doesn't actually affect the car, just means that your steering wheel is off center. This isn't a problem unless you have an 06+, and it might throw a VSA light.
Edit: but it's also possible other things are going on, like you have uneven toe in the rear pushing you to the left, and by compensating by steering to the right you're cancelling it out. This will hurt the car's handling. So best thing to do is to take it in regardless.
06-03-2012, 09:36 AM
#19
Yeah, the first time I got an alignment from a "normal place" they tightened them to OEM torque values. MY first autocross some of them slipped. You need to tighten them really hard.
06-03-2012, 01:24 PM
#20
usually if your steering wheel is off center but the car tracks perfectly straight that means the alignment guy didn't do a good job of straightening the steering wheel during the aligment. So if the steering wheel is straight on your next alignment most likely your numbers will be good except your front toe will look like LF -0.5 RF 0.5 or something like that.
If this is the case, then it doesn't actually affect the car, just means that your steering wheel is off center. This isn't a problem unless you have an 06+, and it might throw a VSA light.
Edit: but it's also possible other things are going on, like you have uneven toe in the rear pushing you to the left, and by compensating by steering to the right you're cancelling it out. This will hurt the car's handling. So best thing to do is to take it in regardless.
If this is the case, then it doesn't actually affect the car, just means that your steering wheel is off center. This isn't a problem unless you have an 06+, and it might throw a VSA light.
Edit: but it's also possible other things are going on, like you have uneven toe in the rear pushing you to the left, and by compensating by steering to the right you're cancelling it out. This will hurt the car's handling. So best thing to do is to take it in regardless.