Aerodynamic benefits of Mugen vs. OEM hardtop
#1
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Aerodynamic benefits of Mugen vs. OEM hardtop
It looks like I have no option but to remove my soft-top to accommodate the new rollbar. The question is Mugen or OEM hard-top. I know the Mugen has plexiglass and no defroster in comparison to the OEM glass rear window. I am also aware that Mugen is made of fiberglass while the OEM is made of metal.
Can anyone here comment on how each hard-top would work in conjunction with a functional rear spoiler?
Thanks.
Asura
Can anyone here comment on how each hard-top would work in conjunction with a functional rear spoiler?
Thanks.
Asura
#2
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I had one of each in my garage recently. The Mugen has a better transition from the roof to the rear deck lid - IOW, the divergence angle is smaller. This will make for smoother flowing air at the rear and should result in reduced drag. It will also likely improve the effectiveness of your rear wing or spoiler (more clean air to the device).
Combined with the much lighter weight of the Mugen on what will be the highest located mass on the car, you can't go wrong if you can afford it.
UL
Combined with the much lighter weight of the Mugen on what will be the highest located mass on the car, you can't go wrong if you can afford it.
UL
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The price for a Mugen unpainted ($2700) is about the same for an OEM painted ($2600). CF is out of the budget. If I can't find a used OEM, I'll go with the Mugen.
I am also looking for the mounting brackets to the wing to be removable. I don't mind if the feet are permanantly attached to the the rear deck lid. I just don't need the extra attention on the street from the large wing that in hang over each side by ~1ft. Any ideas?
I am also looking for the mounting brackets to the wing to be removable. I don't mind if the feet are permanantly attached to the the rear deck lid. I just don't need the extra attention on the street from the large wing that in hang over each side by ~1ft. Any ideas?
#5
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The mugen isn't much lighter.
The OEM top w/o the interior stuff & glass window weights 45lbs, the mugen CF top weighs 35lbs. I think the FRP is closer to 45.
So as far as weight is concerned they're all about equal.
Of course the mugen has lower drag as is pretty clear by its shape.
Ashish why can't you keep the rag top, there's should be no reason tony can't make you a bar that fits.
The OEM top w/o the interior stuff & glass window weights 45lbs, the mugen CF top weighs 35lbs. I think the FRP is closer to 45.
So as far as weight is concerned they're all about equal.
Of course the mugen has lower drag as is pretty clear by its shape.
Ashish why can't you keep the rag top, there's should be no reason tony can't make you a bar that fits.
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#9
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OK... that makes more sense.
In that case... I may look into getting the OEM hardtop some day. I thought the weight would be much higher than the Mugen hardtops. I'm not sure I could see paying an extra $2500 for the CF just to save an additional 10 lbs. Although, I'd probably do it if I could afford it.
In that case... I may look into getting the OEM hardtop some day. I thought the weight would be much higher than the Mugen hardtops. I'm not sure I could see paying an extra $2500 for the CF just to save an additional 10 lbs. Although, I'd probably do it if I could afford it.
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Well I went to see Tony on Friday with Kster. His final verdict, after seeing my car with the top down was that the diagonal bars going back from the main hoop in the direction of the rear bumper (must be >30 degrees) don't have enough clearance with the soft top. And in his opinion, any bar that he would make to fit in the confined space would be a compromise on safety.
His advice to me was two-fold:
1) decide street car or race car
2) If race car, get a hard-top.
3) Then add bar/cage, seat and harness
This hobby is turning into a disease
His advice to me was two-fold:
1) decide street car or race car
2) If race car, get a hard-top.
3) Then add bar/cage, seat and harness
This hobby is turning into a disease