2400 lbs +/- with cage and sc?
#21
There's HUGE weight savings to be had on your chassis prep.
-Gutting out the windshield frame/A-pillars (which is part of the stock roll over protection) will save you over 40+ pounds. It also gives your cage builder more room to build the cage into, so it doesn't intrude into the cabin.
-Gut out the transmission tunnel, which is part of the x-bone frame structure of the chassis. You won't need it to maintain chassis rigidity once you have a full build cage in place - that will take care of solidifying chassis flex. easily another 40-50+ pounds there.
-Wiring. There's a crap load of wiring needed for a street car to maintain all of that extraneous stuff that you should no longer have. I've seen people pull out 30 pounds of wiring from cars.
-Door cards, speakers, and stereo... why do you still have that? That's probably another 15-20 pounds with associated wiring.
-Side protection bars in doors - gut them out. You're having a cage built - have side protection incorporated into the cage. It will be superior to what's in the doors.
-Gut out the rest of your carpet and sound deadening material in the car.
I'm fairly sure all of what i've mentioned will get you 200 pounds. And, you haven't even added any trick overpriced carbon fiber pieces yet.
You're now below 2500 by my math...
Read this. it'll show you how to get an S2000 to 2300 and meet all of the SCCA safety standards.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/910...ving-ambition/
#23
My SCCA racecar is 2630 with me in it after a race including cool suit cooler full of ice water. Regular style cage, mostly stock wiring harness, no lexan, and original paint including underbody coating.
Light weight is important but certain things like driver comfort trump that,eg power steering.
There aren't any 2300 lb developed road race cars I the US that I know about. People have gotten to that weight and then realized they need to add certain things back in.
If you have the money and time to do a proper build then yes, strip and dip the chassis, seam weld it, gut the a-pillars, and make a minimal wiring harness.
However, if I could chose between a sequential transmission or rebuilding the entire car to drop 200lbs, I would take the trans any day because it will make a bigger difference in the lap times.
Light weight is important but certain things like driver comfort trump that,eg power steering.
There aren't any 2300 lb developed road race cars I the US that I know about. People have gotten to that weight and then realized they need to add certain things back in.
If you have the money and time to do a proper build then yes, strip and dip the chassis, seam weld it, gut the a-pillars, and make a minimal wiring harness.
However, if I could chose between a sequential transmission or rebuilding the entire car to drop 200lbs, I would take the trans any day because it will make a bigger difference in the lap times.
#24
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Oh boy how did you know I was thinking about a sequential?
At this point id rather put less money into car and more into driver improvement. (Trust me I've learned my lesson from not listening to everyone here, should have left car stock and focused on driver mod's - cost me 5yrs of track time)
If there are things that can be done easily while car is partially apart then great, otherwise I don't see us doing a whole seam weld deal here, just keep seeing those numbers and couldn't understand where they can from.
At this point id rather put less money into car and more into driver improvement. (Trust me I've learned my lesson from not listening to everyone here, should have left car stock and focused on driver mod's - cost me 5yrs of track time)
If there are things that can be done easily while car is partially apart then great, otherwise I don't see us doing a whole seam weld deal here, just keep seeing those numbers and couldn't understand where they can from.
#25
Originally Posted by josserman' timestamp='1407541204' post='23279217
Seems like there's a big gap between guys in the 2500-2600 range and guys in the 2300-2400 range, just don't follow what it is that gets you into that next category!
There is no way you're saving 30# thinning the harness on an s2000.
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Between all my old stereo, with separate xm, iPod, bt modules, remote start alarm, radar, previous AEM setup with defi gauges, modifry units, it's a friggen mess under the dash! May be able to find 30lb's +
#28
Originally Posted by Bullwings' timestamp='1407545265' post='23279272
[quote name='josserman' timestamp='1407541204' post='23279217']
Seems like there's a big gap between guys in the 2500-2600 range and guys in the 2300-2400 range, just don't follow what it is that gets you into that next category!
Seems like there's a big gap between guys in the 2500-2600 range and guys in the 2300-2400 range, just don't follow what it is that gets you into that next category!
There is no way you're saving 30# thinning the harness on an s2000.
[/quote]
I have all the harnesses from an ap1 sitting in a box I don't think its more than 20lbs I could weight it
#29
Oh boy how did you know I was thinking about a sequential?
At this point id rather put less money into car and more into driver improvement. (Trust me I've learned my lesson from not listening to everyone here, should have left car stock and focused on driver mod's - cost me 5yrs of track time)
If there are things that can be done easily while car is partially apart then great, otherwise I don't see us doing a whole seam weld deal here, just keep seeing those numbers and couldn't understand where they can from.
At this point id rather put less money into car and more into driver improvement. (Trust me I've learned my lesson from not listening to everyone here, should have left car stock and focused on driver mod's - cost me 5yrs of track time)
If there are things that can be done easily while car is partially apart then great, otherwise I don't see us doing a whole seam weld deal here, just keep seeing those numbers and couldn't understand where they can from.
Our CR hit minimum weight for class and was still able to retain windows and AC! It's lovely because I can use it for a bunch of different things.
#30
Originally Posted by josserman' timestamp='1407579259' post='23279602
Oh boy how did you know I was thinking about a sequential?
At this point id rather put less money into car and more into driver improvement. (Trust me I've learned my lesson from not listening to everyone here, should have left car stock and focused on driver mod's - cost me 5yrs of track time)
If there are things that can be done easily while car is partially apart then great, otherwise I don't see us doing a whole seam weld deal here, just keep seeing those numbers and couldn't understand where they can from.
At this point id rather put less money into car and more into driver improvement. (Trust me I've learned my lesson from not listening to everyone here, should have left car stock and focused on driver mod's - cost me 5yrs of track time)
If there are things that can be done easily while car is partially apart then great, otherwise I don't see us doing a whole seam weld deal here, just keep seeing those numbers and couldn't understand where they can from.
Our CR hit minimum weight for class and was still able to retain windows and AC! It's lovely because I can use it for a bunch of different things.