juntsky

How much does your car currently weigh?

josserman

2655 dry without me

all airbags removed
FRP fenders in front
CF Hardtop very light
All softop components removed
all metal and plastic removed behind seats (sound det still there but basically metal opening to trunk
light recaro seats
light wheels
light mirrors

all dash still in place
doors still in place
stereo and speakers with light amp still in place

afzan

if you want to be around 2400 you would need to get rid of A LOT more stuff
for example: http://www.modified.com/projectcars/...0-honda-s2000/

SHG_Mike

2400 will be tough. 2500 maybe. Mine weighs in at 2630 with heavy wheels. and 1/3 tank. that would be about 2580-2590 with light wheels and empty. Carbon doors with no door panels is about the only thing you can do. Your FRP fenders may weigh more than the aluminum ones. My carbon hood weighs more than the factory unit.

50-100lbs isnt going to make or break the car handling wise. You already have more than enough power so I would just leave it at around 2550-2600lbs and dial in HP to meet the NASA HP/Weight ratio your looking for. Anything else to save weigh will be drastic or will hurt safety/reliability etc.

Is nasa's HP/Weight not race weight? meaning car only not with driver? Most sanctioning bodies use race weight car+Driver so that you dont have an advantage being a small guy or anorexic (2014 F1 drivers)

Also remember not all scales are equal. I put my car on industrial scales and it weighed 2440. So some guys may be getting numbers buy driving to their local truck stop weigh in which doesnt have the resolution to be accurate with such little weight compared to the normal 26,000lbs

Bullwings

Gut out the transmission tunnel and x-bone frame structure and the a-pillars of the wind shield. You don't need either if you have a full cage. It'll take of the roll over protection offered by the a-pillars and the chassis stiffness offered by the x-bone structure of the transmission tunnel.

I'm fairly certain those two items alone should get you to 2500.
Wiring. If you have someone good with wiring, there's about 15+ to 20 pounds to be gain from simplification there and removing all of the unnecessary wires.

In addition to Kraziks build thread, check out Andrew W.'s build thread for his car that is now for sale.

josserman

no it's plus driver ( but that is something I can work on )

I'd like to dial my HP down to be honest, I'm thinking less horsepower, less weight, longer lasting everything....

Greg has some CF doors and trunk for me, wanted a cf hood anyhow... BUT even with all that I'm not sure I'm in the ballpark. As far as doors go, considering it will be caged as long as the cage provides proper safety I should be OK. Haven't gone through w/ builder yet and don't want ot open up the X vs. Nascar debate but probably doing nascar for driver side...

SHG_Mike

OEM doors are not much more safe in an accident IMO. If you look at whats inside a stock door its a joke. Regardless Like you said with nascar bar on the driver side you will be fine. I agree with the nascar driver bent X passenger side. Same setup we have on the SHG DC5.

As stated earlier, a CF hood will GAIN weight not loose it. I am willing to bet it will be much of the same with the trunk as well unless its the GT motoring trunk, but that will not be able to support the weight of your wing. I also believe that 100lbs will not net you much longer life from your tires and brakes.

K.I.S.S. don't over think this.

josserman

Seems like there's a big gap between guys in the 2500-2600 range and guys in the 2300-2400 range, just don't follow what it is that gets you into that next category!

josserman

Didn't catch hood thing

nissanfanatic

I'd say just make your goal to remove 1lb per day of weight from the car. It is easy to find something each day that you can remove that is 1lb.

Of course, that isn't to say you can remove more, but at least take a pound out of the car daily.