Urge / Endyn engine failure
#252
#253
MB i remember reading a post on the ITR-DC2 forum where the engine builder welded up loads of material on the head and then machined it. I know to weld up a whole aluminium block would take some doing and with the various oil ways and coolant ways would be alot of effort but would it work out cheaper than the new pistons and con rods?
Not sure if your a member but worth looking at the photos as the guy made it like a work of art!
http://www.itr-dc2.com/forum/viewtop...+valve#p718888
I realise it's not a conventional fix but i would imagine it could be done but not sure on the long term effect of the welding heat on the cylinder head
Not sure if your a member but worth looking at the photos as the guy made it like a work of art!
http://www.itr-dc2.com/forum/viewtop...+valve#p718888
I realise it's not a conventional fix but i would imagine it could be done but not sure on the long term effect of the welding heat on the cylinder head
#255
Member
Thread Starter
It could do, but difficult to say as the bearings were destroyed. All we know is the crank was out of balance and at the advised redline it's probably destroyed the bearings.
Biggest issue now is the head gasket.
Now I know more about engines, selling an 89mm bore Darton lined engine as a race engine, combined with a head skimmed for very high compression necessitating a multilayer gasket, is not an experienced decision. The hg has failed 3 times as I had to manage it through last season. Problem is the Dartons expand at a different rate to the ally block, and at 89mm you don't have as much sealing surface. With that in mind, you want the to stick with an OEM gasket at minimum.
I still can't work out why with a blank canvas you would go away from an OEM head gasket.
That and the 'Endyn billet rods' rods used look like Crower ones you would use in a big bhp build rather than a lightweight race application.
I will probably be selling the engine in 2 halves as they don't work together. The head is good as it has nice cams and some good head work, timsprings / retainers etc and would work nicely on a non 89mm short block.
The short block now has a new OEM crank, OEM bearings, new oil pump and the 89mm Dartons would probably fine in non race use and on a standard hg head.
Anyway all this has been is major hassle and I've pulled out of racing this year
Biggest issue now is the head gasket.
Now I know more about engines, selling an 89mm bore Darton lined engine as a race engine, combined with a head skimmed for very high compression necessitating a multilayer gasket, is not an experienced decision. The hg has failed 3 times as I had to manage it through last season. Problem is the Dartons expand at a different rate to the ally block, and at 89mm you don't have as much sealing surface. With that in mind, you want the to stick with an OEM gasket at minimum.
I still can't work out why with a blank canvas you would go away from an OEM head gasket.
That and the 'Endyn billet rods' rods used look like Crower ones you would use in a big bhp build rather than a lightweight race application.
I will probably be selling the engine in 2 halves as they don't work together. The head is good as it has nice cams and some good head work, timsprings / retainers etc and would work nicely on a non 89mm short block.
The short block now has a new OEM crank, OEM bearings, new oil pump and the 89mm Dartons would probably fine in non race use and on a standard hg head.
Anyway all this has been is major hassle and I've pulled out of racing this year
#256
a lot of guys says that use a minimum of 0.002 clearance for both mains and rods bearings. but that is on forced induction. so I think NA is too loose, at least on the mains. since you have a lot more experience in the engines can you confirm me that if forced induction guys should use 0.002 clearance on mains and rods? and how much oil pressure the engine loss because of that?
Do you use dartons MID or the stock replacements aka liners?
Do you use dartons MID or the stock replacements aka liners?
#257
I would not go that high on the mains especially .0020 on all of them and even more so for NA; rods I could see, ya. After Break-in the bearings will have additional clearance. So even if your "targeting" .002 on the mains after initial break in its already higher. Big difference between .0020 and .0025 or even 22-23, < these #'s do settle after break in but dont account for cold/possible dry starts, and then the beatings they take after break in. The above mentioned is probably a hole problem in its self cause if you think your at .002 which is pretty close to .0019 or whatever else your reading that tells you to put the mains at .002 and you dont have the right tools to know your actually at .0029 I could see this giving some heartache lol This is why I could never use Plasti gauge you just cant read a BLOB! for micrometal measurements then expect it to perform above standard. Not saying anyone here used or uses just saying.
Even Sustained High NA performance will want some support. Honestly If Honda released it; I dont care how bad your beating on it; in NA form just go by the Field Service Manual, Supposedly Hondas F1 Engineers made this thing, if thats true I dont think they pulled from the same group as their Accord or Civic Engineers. I imagine them being in a whole nother league or "high honor grad's" if you will Lol. And I dont imagine me or a lot of us making par for even a civic Engineer, build at your own risk with your own "best practices"
Even Sustained High NA performance will want some support. Honestly If Honda released it; I dont care how bad your beating on it; in NA form just go by the Field Service Manual, Supposedly Hondas F1 Engineers made this thing, if thats true I dont think they pulled from the same group as their Accord or Civic Engineers. I imagine them being in a whole nother league or "high honor grad's" if you will Lol. And I dont imagine me or a lot of us making par for even a civic Engineer, build at your own risk with your own "best practices"
#258
yeah that's what I tought. but I can target them at 0.0018 or even 0.0017 with a MICROMETER , I dont use plastigage.
But I will turbocharge my car so it will be more abuse than NA. so i Though that would require more clearance because of the adicional heat and pressure. (32psi) loll
As about the dry starts, I will be runing an accumsump system to avoid that. so it will be under pressure before starting the engine to avoid a completly dry start
But I will turbocharge my car so it will be more abuse than NA. so i Though that would require more clearance because of the adicional heat and pressure. (32psi) loll
As about the dry starts, I will be runing an accumsump system to avoid that. so it will be under pressure before starting the engine to avoid a completly dry start
#259
yeah that's what I tought. but I can target them at 0.0018 or even 0.0017 with a MICROMETER , I dont use plastigage.
But I will turbocharge my car so it will be more abuse than NA. so i Though that would require more clearance because of the adicional heat and pressure. (32psi) loll
As about the dry starts, I will be runing an accumsump system to avoid that. so it will be under pressure before starting the engine to avoid a completly dry start
But I will turbocharge my car so it will be more abuse than NA. so i Though that would require more clearance because of the adicional heat and pressure. (32psi) loll
As about the dry starts, I will be runing an accumsump system to avoid that. so it will be under pressure before starting the engine to avoid a completly dry start