Aurex

Too bad that power level was measured on Church's penis enlarging dyno, so the numbers are inflated and in the article, hytech even admitted that the dyno reads high. The delta is ~40 horsepower though, so likely in the 255-265 WHP level.


Edit:


Not only that, but stroker kits are so cheap now, especially since CNCspeedshop has made rods that can use factory pistons and mate up to a modified K24 crank for ~1100 and will make similar power for a fraction of the cost.

SlowTeg

DavidNJ,

I'm sure Larry appreciates you coming in here and sticking up for him but the facts speak for themselves. Some of us are still waiting for the roots blower setup that was supposed to make 350+whp on a D series from 15 yrs ago. (for you non old school honda folks, that's a SOHC 1.6L).

MB

DavidNJ

I came across this crank picture...a Winberg billet, where the entire crank had their micro polish. I think it is around $3600. It is nearly auto porn.

06Estukay

Winberg ftmfw.

06Estukay

This. There is no reason to touch an oem Honda crank. I'm running an Accord k24 crank. This crank is going on 4 seasons of track abuse and it's 4th rebuild. The balance is almost bang on out of the box. Never had to remove any significant material to get the balance perfect.

DavidNJ

It seems nearly all engine builders are fine with the OEM cranks. 4 cylinder flat cranks are naturally in primary balance regardless of bobweight or counterweights. But that micro polished Winberg with its gun-drilled rod and main journals and aero-shaped counterweights does look insanely exotic.

MB

So as my engine guy advised, and as I mentioned a long while back.... the amount shaved off the head by Endyn / Urge meant that a 1.1mm multi layer head gasket had to be used to get the height / compression. I was advised this was a weak point and would not last. Even the original engine showed signs of early HG failure after 1 race.

But the HG failed yesterday so the legacy lives on, and i'm out of my first race of the season. The repair lasted very well but still not happy with what i've been left with.

After much discussion with my Uk engine builder, we have a plan. The bottom end on mine is ok. It looks like some Crower rods and pistons are in there, and I have a new OEM 2.2 crank and bearings from the rebuild. The head is actually very good, using Hytech cams and a few other bits, just the issue that its been machined to hell. So, to get back to stock HG thickness and minimise costs, we're going to re-use the head and get a custom built short block. With custom made crank / rods / pistons the lengths can be adjusted to compensate for the head. These guys are proper race engine builders, who have a 100% reputation of top custom engine builds for major race series. They don't do any street builds, and don't advertise.

I can also stick a standard head on my existing short block to make it reliable, and sell it to offset the rebuild costs.

My advice to anyone getting a build is ask all the dimensions, especially what has been taken off the head and don't get sucked into all the hype of 'we build amazing engines and heads'. I can't understand why it was built like this but hey ho.

DavidNJ

What was the interference that required the thicker head gasket? I would have thought any piston-to-valve interference could have been handled in the pistons, which are consumables in many (most?) race engines.

MB

You would think so. You would have to ask the original builder that, as this is how it was built from new. Who knows what went on, but using a thick gasket wasn't a good idea, as it was already showing signs of hg failure as I mentioned on the first post.

Pistons aren't considered a consumable on a new engine. I could have gone with new pistons on the rebuild but had to piss with the cock I had in getting it back together to get racing again. The 1.1mm was needed to keep the compression from being that of a Diesel engine / piston clearance.

The new build will have new pistons to compensate for head thickness.