Nsanes2k

Not everyone is lookin for crazy power ..some people just want a solid n/a power that instantly there at push of a pedal and don't want the problems That FI can bring .. By the looks of where he posted this thread seems he wants a N/a setup with a little more beef in power.
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Fi doesn't mean crazy power....I know NA vehicles that required more maintenance than Fi vehicles...like it was stated above, if the OP wants to begin a long stream of pissing money away with NA mods and maintenance. Compare 280whp/tq from a FI car to 280whp/tq a NA.
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Explain to me what more maintenance an n/a setup with require over a FI setup? and besides this is a n/a thread if he was look for information or specs on how to setup his motor for FI he would of asked. I dont see how your words are any help in the direction he is asking for.?

JUSTINTHECOASTIE

Not everyone is lookin for crazy power ..some people just want a solid n/a power that instantly there at push of a pedal and don't want the problems That FI can bring .. By the looks of where he posted this thread seems he wants a N/a setup with a little more beef in power.
[/quote]
Fi doesn't mean crazy power....I know NA vehicles that required more maintenance than Fi vehicles...like it was stated above, if the OP wants to begin a long stream of pissing money away with NA mods and maintenance. Compare 280whp/tq from a FI car to 280whp/tq a NA.
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Explain to me what more maintenance an n/a setup with require over a FI setup? and besides this is a n/a thread if he was look for information or specs on how to setup his motor for FI he would of asked. I dont see how your words are any help in the direction he is asking for.?
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For one, I know this is a NA forum, I have a few threads within it you should check out, second, if you're as 'hardcore' NA as you think, you'd know that the best NA power/torque comes from a stroked motor. Third, with having a stroked motor, one that is going NA usually increases compression. Increasing compression opens up a can of worms when looking for fuel able to combat detonation. Once, you've calmed that down, the exhaust side is easy, the more complexed intake side of things will required ITBS. ITBS require some time tuning(hot season&cold season) with cams(which takes a while to tweak) and porting the head to follow shortly. Hopefully after doing this at a minimal, you 'd get 290whp and spent 10k..I even forgot EMS/tune...when a comptech sc kit or greddy kit will net you more power per dollar, roughly 5k installed. True NA set-ups have a certain amount of seasons to run before they should be inspected, even replacing parts. Comptech and greddy have 'set it and forget it' kits some if you regularly do normal maintenance you shouldn't have issues at 280-290whp with a healthier power band than the NA alternative. I am helping with his direction as I have been there and done that, twice.

wadzii

All you need is a stroker kit

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/111...hop-24l-build/

Porting the head is basically worthless for an all motor 2 liter. The 2 liter doesnt load the ports and more flow wont do you any good.

4bang6

I have had to repair and replace a lot of things since we built my motor, but the motor is not one of them.....I have not had one single problem with the engine itself. It burns more oil than anything i have ever driven, but that's really the worst of it....we rev'd this engine to 10,000 on the dyno when we built it, on pump gas, it stopped making power in the mid 8k range so until i swap out the OEM cams for something proven to work better, there is no need to rev that high unless it is a full blown race car...You can build a nice N/A car that is reliable with longevity, but you have to do it right the first time and don't go cheap on anything.......

AngryFooFoo

Dont listen to em, NA and weight dropping turns this into just as wonderful car (yet different) as FI and reinforcing. Building your motor for NA is a magical treat with sound to reward. The only downside is... if your project is gonna run more then buying a 3rd wheeled full built performance motor. Basically you can consider if your project is above 7000 you could have your dream motor handed to you by a handful of reputable companies. In the end I dont see the value in building it unless you have access yourself to a machine shop or a friend does. The labor involved requires heavy amounts of careful measuring/ balancing/ weighing and the cost adds up for work if your not capable of doing such yourself. Simply just pressure filing/balancing/pressure testing/ bearing tagging required for the crank installation tends to pay 5 hours of work and you havent even got to where the magic happens! (aka fire.) Make sure to find a cost effective route before jumping into the project part by part! Good luck and enjoy!

s2000Junky

What I don’t understand is the argument of N/A being the best for response etc. This simply isnt the case when comparing with an After cooled SC set up. There is only a slight parasitic drag on the motor from turning the blower, however in my experience its no more felt then simply turning on your factory A/C if that, and at 40% throttle opening or more is quickly offset by about 2500rpm when the motor starts to get into positive pressure (which is 99% of the time your driving/accelerating) Add on top of that, you have the usual bolt ons to increase throttle sensitivity and engine response such as a larger TB and light flywheel, all adding to the experience. The power curve is also the same on a SC as N/A, just a lot more of it!

Now if you’re talking a Turbo car or even a Supercharged car with an FMIC, then yeah, your not going to have that direct throttle to engine response your accustomed to because of the plumbing length and area needed to fill before the engine sees it. Ive been SC for years at all different boost levels and blowers, and im now back to N/A so I speak from a lot of seat of the pants experience. There is a huge gap/leap in expense from doing a thoughtful bolt on and tune N/A (230whp/150trq) to a 250whp+/200trq N/A. However a base SC kit used for 3k can get you a reliable and fun 300whp/200trq. So its all worth considering, nothing wrong with that. Just want to make sure you are getting proper information and have the right expectations from the guys that know.

S2K Al

Read through that thread, good stuff. I'm curious though: it seems to be common knowledge that the stock intake manifold/throttle body is restrictive, and opening up the intake system is almost guaranteed to bring more power. So where are the threads showing what a 2.4L will do with anything more than stock IM/TB?

edit: searched for 2.4L NA S2000, turned up this Blacktrax video showing a what I assume to be an AP1 with the following:
-InlinePro 2.4L Stroker
-BC Stage 2 Cams
-Kinsler ITB's
-BlackTrax Ported Head
-BlackTrax Custom Baffled Catch Can
-BlackTrax Custom 75mm Single Exhaust
-Skunk2 Megapower Header
-AEM EMS Tuned by BlackTrax

The video showed that this setup dyno'd 271hp/200tq. Taking dyno differences out of it, shouldn't we expect higher numbers than that given the mods? I'm basing this off of the CNC Speedshop thread showing the gains they made with their 2.4L stroker. Am I missing something?

wadzii

We are working on it.. Got a few things in the works for testing

s2000ellier

What sized ITBs do you want with a 2.4L setup? Is 66mm too small?

Urge

Exactly on the 2.0L. Also, you have to be really careful not to port too much on the 2.2. Honda made the F20 too big as is. As noted, you really need 2.4L to make the S2000 ports work over a 5000+ RPM range.

ITB size is overrated. It all depends on where the throttle body is.
AT Power puts the throttles 1-1.5" away from the port
Jenvey/Toda/Hayware put the throttles 3.5" away
Kinsler put them 5.5" away from the port.

If you are 5"+ away from the port you should be 60mm+, if you are 1" away from the port you should be in the 50mm range. We have proven that even with 10mm diameter difference, the ITBs can flow the same due to their distance away from the port.

We are working on some things for the ITBs that will drastically change power for ITBs.