06Estukay

I'm running a J37 tb. It wasn't as easy to get it to work as was first described. I was getting a specific cel any time the car was left to idle for a period of time (I.e. traffic light). Tb would open to its mechanical rest position, then ECU went into limp mode. Throttle input did almost nothing, and couldn't rev engine past around 3k rpm. Don't remember the exact cel (have it written down somewhere), but it was something like "throttle body actuator malfunction".

I even tried swapping the motor from an s2k tb into the j37 tb, still same problem. Also measured voltage of s2k tb, and adjusted the mechanical rest position of j37 tb to match (per a thread i had found on 8th gen civic, HERE). Still no luck. Finally, I adjusted the mechanical stop based on rpm. For that, I started up car and let it warm up. Then, I disconnected the DBW tb connector. The rpms jumped up to 14-1500 rpm. Looked in my flashpro data log, and got an approximate target rpm. I did the same procedure with the j37 tb, then simply adjusted the mechanical stop until flashpro was showing the same rpms. Again, cel was coming back...

Out of frustration, I just drove with it like that and dealt with it. If the cel came on, I would simply shut off engine, then restart to get out of limp mode. I tried resetting the ECU with various procedures, reflashing ECU with a fresh map, etc etc. Nothing seemed to have an immediate effect. Then out of nowhere, the DBW unit made friends with the j37 unit and I never had a cel since (march or April). I have done numerous reflashes, track days, stop and go traffic, battery disconnects, etc since then, and its still working perfectly.

Here's the deal... The DBW function is controlled by a separate unit, not the ECU. If that unit is not happy, it will tell the ECU to piss off hah. I believe, I accidentally triggered sometime of "learn" function within the DBW controller, but I don't know exactly how. I was pulling the battery, reflashing the ECU, turning key on waiting for the cel light to blink and turn off before starting, etc. Again, it was pure luck on my part. In retrospect I should have kept better notes of what I was doing.

Are you guys actively using flashpro with your testing? If so, you can use it to look at live obd2 data. There are quite a few parameters in there related to the dbw module. Another option, try to access the CAN bus, see what's going on there. I have a Honda hds unit, and have poked around to see if there are any programing tools for dbw. It turns out there is, but the feature is not available to s2000's.
HTH

06Estukay

Also, to answer your questions... Yes, there was a minor difference in the fuel maps for the bigger tb, naturally. Also, the actuator in the j37 unit is the same as the s2k unit.

alexdc2

hello I installed the zdx throttle body on my 06 ap2 I even cruised around for an hour or more 3 -4 pulls in the dyno no problems, (big gains btw w bigger exhaust and intake pipe) then... cel TB malfunction code, we recalibrated it and reset ecu and it would be cool for a little bit until you turn off the car then cel comes back on when you turn it back on, anyone have any issues?

06Estukay

This is the exact problem I had with mine. Took me weeks to get it sorted out. There is a DBW learn function within the ECU. However, no one I know had any idea how to initiate this procedure. Even on the internet, I couldn't really find anything. I accidentally got mine to work without throwing a code, but don't remember how I did it. I haven't had a code for 2 years. I've done countless Flashpro uploads, battery pulls, and it's still working perfect.

My suggestion... Don't pull the battery, don't reset the ecu, and don't upload any maps. Try to drive it around in different conditions, and it will hopefully sort itself out.

Trustd_1

i was considering getting Ballade's j37 "plug & play" kit for my 06 and got cold feet when i came across this thread. i asked Ballade about the CEL problem in their FS thread for the kit. they said they heard about people having such problems but not with their kits. they claim the problem occurs when people try to mechanically adjust the idle and advise making adjustments electronically w/a Flashpro or other engine management. they said to just bolt on the kit and go.

wadzii

you have to remember the dbw control unit is separate from the ecu. You will have to reset the dbw unit. For that you'll need a scan tool with oem level access... you might be able to disconnect the battery to get it to reset as well. Not sure on that though, I just use my scantool. The civic's with dbw dont have the separate dbw module, only the s2000 has that.

06Estukay

Everything Ballade told you is B.S. They clearly don't have first knowledge on the subject.

Even with a brand new unmolested J37 TB from Honda, it still caused a CEL, as evidenced by a few other people on this forum. Also, there are no specific DBW controller adjustments that can be made with Flashpro. The only thing Flashpro allows us to do is to set the pedal vs throttle opening target.

Like wadzii said, the DBW controller needs to be reset, and requires a TB actuator relearn. Before my CEL problems went away, the last CEL I received was something along the lines of "throttle actuator not learned". Meaning, I somehow forced the DBW module to reset. Wish I knew how I did it!

Trustd_1

i'm still tempted to try their kit anyway, but i don't want to get stuck w/an expensive paperweight (or stranded).

it's surprising that no info can be found on resetting the DBW module. i just installed an SOS overbored t-body. at first the idle increased to 2k, but after a few minutes, it settled to close to stock at 900-1k. i drove it around for a few miles on the freeway, and it seems to be back to normal idle. i haven't driven it enough to detect any benefits yet.

06Estukay

They are claiming the OEM manifold is already 69mm... It's not. You'll need to open it up to match.

Also, don't expect miracles on the dyno with the bigger throttle body. To be honest, it isn't much of a restriction on the F20/F22. The manifold itself is probably the biggest restriction in regards to hp gains.

Trustd_1

thanks for the additional info. i know it's a good idea to port match the manifold when installing bigger t-bodies. even w/stock ones, there's often some overlap on the manifold openings. i didn't have time to port it, so i just bolted on the SOS. i had to reuse the original gasket too. it broke in half because part of it fused to the t-body. i used an Exacto knife to cut it off, and it's fine so far. haven't driven the car since though.

i'll portmatch the manifold and replace the gasket when i have time. probably do the coolant bypass too. seems like the only phenolic gasket for the 06+ ap2 is the p2R. i've read about the p2r having durability/melting issues, so i might sandwich it between two OEM gaskets.

as for gains, i'm still fairly new to the s2k, but i'm aware of the ineffectiveness of bolt-on mods on our cars. it's a shame that there isn't much hp to be unlocked w/the f20/f22c, but i'm willing to try the basic i/h/e mods. i'm planning on getting a Comptech s/c kit when i can get a good deal on one, so the intake and exhaust mods should at least help later.