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getting more power while keeping N/A

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Old 06-21-2014, 07:57 AM
  #11  
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Thank man, i have a ACT clutch and flywheel that I'm about to put in myself. And i have been to the FI section and its hard to find the stuff that i need to know like what can the stock car hold and what is needed to be reenforced. Ive had the car for over 5 years now and I've auto crossed it quite a bit. So I like to believe that I've learn everything i can from the HP and torque that it has. Me and my further have sold cars together (btw we worked on them too, so i know my way around a wrench) so i know that ill never get anything out of the car if i try to sell it but Ive decided that this is going to be the one car I will always have, i never plan on selling it. all i want is maybe 350WHP at the very max and ill be happy. all i need to know is what is needed to be done to keep the car reliable

Originally Posted by DaGou
Dudes don't rattle this poor boys brain with turbo/SC debate! I will try not to say what is better here. Turbo's use the exhaust gas to spin the compressor therefore you have more heat in the engine bay. This is not a killer it is just what it is. Turbo's need bigger exhausts to breath. Strapping a SC on is a easier installation. The big difference is in the power curves. Turbo's give you more power and more torque at a lower RPM. SCs are linear with RPM. Driving my SC around town under 3K RPM you would not even know it was boosted. With today's turbos if properely sized you do not have to worry about turbo lag either. I am SC'ed and if were starting over I am still not sure what I would pick. Turbo's have the potential to go to 700HP.

Now remember any over 400HP and you have to start thinking about the rest of the car. Heavy duty clutch, upgraded rear-end, exhaust, bigger radiator, fans, oil cooling, and list can go on and on and on. Of course you can have a 500HP car and never drive it or drive it like a granny, but what is the point.

As stated about from what you are saying a basic Stage 1 kit banging on 100HP seems to be your best bet. Also as mentioned above(Iceman_S2K, you are wise for your 10 posts) go to the FI section, there are a 1000 pages of info there. I do caution it is a slipperly slope of a money pit to go down. If you are thinking about ever selling your S remember no one seems to want to buy a boosted S. I must have 20K on my 20K investment, and I would be lucky to sell it for 25K as is. You get nothing for the time and money you put into the car. You will have to return it stock to get your money out of it. My advise is to enjoy the car as is. Learn it and push it, become one with it grasshopper. Then if you really need that extra 100 to 200 HP crack open your check book and say good bye to your girl friend. Good Luck.
Old 06-21-2014, 09:01 AM
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Here is my list of Mods, it does not include BBK for front and rear that I just did or the roll bar I just put in, or the new wheel bearings and extend lugs, or the Downforce 30mm over front fenders. My realibilty suggestions would be a PuddyMod rear end, a ACT Heavy Duty Pressure plate with OEM disk, bigger radiator and new fans. Do a valve adjustment, tighten rear axle nuts, check compression before boosting.

My favorite Boosted Thread: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/894...it-faq-sticky/

See MotoIQ Honda S2000 for suspension, brakes, handling, and cooling mods.
See Rob's site on how to do everything on a S for the track except boost it. http://robrobinette.com/S2000Info.htm

I am at 378WHP and 244TQ at 8200 RPM


2006 Laguna Blue, OEM front lip, OEM hardtop, APR GT-250 Wing, Wasp Track Splitter, Wasp Brake Cooling Kit, Wasp Side Diffusers, Seibon Mugen Style Carbon Fiber hood, Bullit 310 hood struts, Hondata FlashPro, SOS Paxton 1200 SuperCharger, 3.8" pulley, 380WHP, blower and aftercooler powder coated, Up-graded Heat Exchanger with Up-Graded Mustang water pump, Tial QRBB 50mm BOV on custom mount, BlackTrax Baffled oil pan, ID 1000cc Injectors, AEM Failsafe boost and AFR dual gauge on a SOS pillar, InLinePRO tune, Ptuning corner balance and race alignment, Laser Iridium 1FR7G-11KS, CompTech ceramic coated and wrapped header, Berk HFC, Powdered Blue valve Cover, catch can, and ARC heat shield, ACT HD PP, SOS SS clutch line, AP1 14# FW, Puddy Mod Stage 2.5 Diff with 3.90 gears, Hasport Diff mounts, Advan RG-D 17X9 Powder Coated Mag Blue,non-staggered w/RE-11, Power Slot Cryo rotors, StopTech SS brake lines and pads, Motul RBF 600 brake and clutch fluid, Tanabe Medalion Exhaust, Koyo radiator and cap w Mishimoto radiator shroud + fans, custom powdered coated AL overflow can, Carbon fiber cooling plate, KW Club Sports, Gendron front SB w ball bearing mounts, Miata SB back, GTSPEC upper strut, M&M Inner Fender Braces, WhiteLine LAB, Megan Anti-Bump, SPC adj. ball joint, Back Yard Special lowered seat rail, Rear battery relocation, Braille battery, Clazzio seat covers, shorty antenna, ARK MFD II, 130dB horn Modifry Redline warning, Modifry camera mount and yes the cup holder!
Old 06-21-2014, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by iceman_s2k
Im about to bombard you with questions so please forgive me. where did you find the info for the max power of what the stock engine can handle? why would you say supercharge over turbo? what makes it "less stressful" than a turbo because i have heard it the other way around. I have looked at SOS and i really like what they have but I'm also a college student with a barely above minim job while pay for school too so $5 is something id like to avoid but if not i guess ill have to wait and research a bit more. but what others would you recommend then? turbonetics, ect?

Originally Posted by liquid_helix136' timestamp='1403313772' post='23211968
A healthy engine can handle plenty more than 400whp, more like 600-700. The most reliable boost is to supercharge it, not as stressful on the engine like a turbo, and people hit 400+ 24/7 with very unintrusive mods. No relocation of anything required, no building of the engine required, just bolt on, tune and go. You'll need injectors, fuel pump and EMS for anything over 300 though. Otherwise just get a base SOS / Comptech kit, hit 300whp on stock everything and have fun.
My estimate for max power on the engine is just from paying attention to people's builds on the forum throughout the years here. At the higher horsepower levels, people tend to break differentials and transmissions before they break anything in the engine.

Supercharger is less stressful on the engine because it builds boost with Rpms, so that means that it only sees max boost for a split second (at max rpm, right before you shift) compared to a turbo that stays at full boost throughout a larger rpm range (typically 5k-9k or so.) As far as budgeting, a boosted s2k is pretty risky if you can't have a back up fund or another car to use if something breaks. But that's your call. I wouldn't cheap out on anything with this car, when I was in college and tried to go the cheaper route, I always ended up selling it back and going for the expensive option in the end. Do it right or do it twice.
Old 06-22-2014, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by b.r.i.a.n.
Originally Posted by DaGou' timestamp='1403281812' post='23211285
2.4 liter stroker, however it not cost effective. The only cost effective route is booooooooooooooooooooost.

This engine is highly tuned in stock form. Headers, retune, intake, all the normal mods just bearly give a little something.

And by the way a mild boost is very reliable.
I don't think you can call these gains little. Green is stock and blue is modded with bolt on's and E85 fuel. They were not done on the same day.



The complete mod list is here:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/909...tepped-intake/
Originally Posted by b.r.i.a.n.
Originally Posted by DaGou' timestamp='1403281812' post='23211285
2.4 liter stroker, however it not cost effective. The only cost effective route is booooooooooooooooooooost.

This engine is highly tuned in stock form. Headers, retune, intake, all the normal mods just bearly give a little something.

And by the way a mild boost is very reliable.
I don't think you can call these gains little. Green is stock and blue is modded with bolt on's and E85 fuel. They were not done on the same day.



The complete mod list is here:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/909...tepped-intake/

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
The picture of the intake . Is not there anymore.. some others picks or missing.. the gains are awesome
Old 06-23-2014, 04:38 AM
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Yes good gains but at what cost? I would not want to run E85 just for that. If I were to got to E85 it would be for 500WHP. Plus I have never even E85 for sale, and what kind of miles per gallon do you get?

Iceman here is a pretty good SOS install thread:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/930...-install-pics/
Old 06-23-2014, 05:28 AM
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I agree with Dagou. If you want cheap and reliable hp run boost. You can run low boost and make good power safely. A rebuilt engine will never be as reliable as a stock engine 9/10 times. With a turbo/SC setup you can easily have 300whp w/o batting an eye, and it'll be far more reliable than a built NA setup that'll cost a lot more.
Old 06-23-2014, 08:06 AM
  #17  
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As most people said lots of power is big money. If you really want the most out of a small budget (and I mean about $1500) find yourself an Emanage Ultimate and harness in the classified section ~$500, get an Berk Cat ~$300, and find someone who know Emanage and can give you a good tune, ~$500.

Headers and exhaust wont give you as much bang for the buck because the stock's are so good at and NA power level. I said high flow cat because, well I like clean air over a test pipe and possible fines but it will free up the flow a bit. People with good Emanage tunes can get 20-30 HP up top, a much fatter low end and midrange and make the car feel like a different animal and all on normal pump gas. The key is to find someone who knows Emanage.

You will not find more power for (well except maybe nitrous)for less money. The key is to be able to change your ignition timing and there are several platforms that can do that, but Emanage will be the cheapest. If you had a newer car, Hondata flash is also a good option.

I have an SC'ed car, but even the cheapest routes will run you at least $4k to do it safely. I have over $11,000 into my boost setup when you count tuning, engine management, injectors, the kit itself, and a clutch.
Old 06-23-2014, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by liquid_helix136
Supercharger is less stressful on the engine because it builds boost with Rpms, so that means that it only sees max boost for a split second (at max rpm, right before you shift) compared to a turbo that stays at full boost throughout a larger rpm range (typically 5k-9k or so.) As far as budgeting, a boosted s2k is pretty risky if you can't have a back up fund or another car to use if something breaks. But that's your call. I wouldn't cheap out on anything with this car, when I was in college and tried to go the cheaper route, I always ended up selling it back and going for the expensive option in the end. Do it right or do it twice.

Superchargers also constantly drag power (the more you make, the more it's using up) and wear the front main bearing quickly, especially if you have to run the belt tight.
Old 06-23-2014, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by johnzal
The picture of the intake . Is not there anymore.. some others picks or missing.. the gains are awesome
I don't have any other pictures of the intake at the moment.
Originally Posted by DaGou
Yes good gains but at what cost? I would not want to run E85 just for that. If I were to got to E85 it would be for 500WHP. Plus I have never even E85 for sale, and what kind of miles per gallon do you get?

Iceman here is a pretty good SOS install thread:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/930...-install-pics/
You don't have to run E85. You can make great gains on pump gasoline too. Mpg takes a hit with E85. I was getting 18-20 mpg on average with E85 and mid to high 20's on pump gasoline. I currently have a fuel composition sensor installed on the car so I can run any blend of E85 and gasoline. I'm currently running the car on gasoline.
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