F24 stroker upgrade 2010
#21
Thread Starter
Yes its a dry sump system. I needed it for ground clearance and to keep the engine under the hood.
Race Engineering Design ( RED) in england have a nice off the shelf setup with a beautiful dry sump pan. I've imported one into Australia for another customer and it was a really well put together kit. Pricing was OK with the current UK exchange rate.
Race Engineering Design ( RED) in england have a nice off the shelf setup with a beautiful dry sump pan. I've imported one into Australia for another customer and it was a really well put together kit. Pricing was OK with the current UK exchange rate.
#22
Originally Posted by chris_barry,Mar 28 2010, 05:28 PM
Yes its a dry sump system. I needed it for ground clearance and to keep the engine under the hood.
Race Engineering Design ( RED) in england have a nice off the shelf setup with a beautiful dry sump pan. I've imported one into Australia for another customer and it was a really well put together kit. Pricing was OK with the current UK exchange rate.
Race Engineering Design ( RED) in england have a nice off the shelf setup with a beautiful dry sump pan. I've imported one into Australia for another customer and it was a really well put together kit. Pricing was OK with the current UK exchange rate.
#23
Thread Starter
Around $3000 USD for the pump/pan kit itself.
This this you will need to also add the tank, cooler, oil lines and fittings. Allow $1000-$1500 if you are using a Peterson tank and Earls hoses and fittings.
This this you will need to also add the tank, cooler, oil lines and fittings. Allow $1000-$1500 if you are using a Peterson tank and Earls hoses and fittings.
#24
Very nice build ! ! !
The ID 725s are great injectors. . .
If you have a pump/regulator that can support it, I suggest you try rasing base psi to 90-100+ on them . . We picked up a few HP with the IDs on e85 by doing so. . Helps spray pattern is what ID told us ! !
Good luck !
The ID 725s are great injectors. . .
If you have a pump/regulator that can support it, I suggest you try rasing base psi to 90-100+ on them . . We picked up a few HP with the IDs on e85 by doing so. . Helps spray pattern is what ID told us ! !
Good luck !
#27
Thread Starter
Just got back from a last minute dyno tune.
Took a while to get the map sorted out as I had no real base map to work from. Surprisingly the engine didn't need much more than 22-23 degrees of timing to produce its best horsepower. The E85 is a relatively easy fuel to tune as it still runs OK when mega rich. This meant as long as I started on the rich side it would hold loads well while the AEM automapping cleaned up the cells.
I didn't get the same peak numbers as some people on the forum, but it is 60hp up on what I dyno'd a stock motor, and 30hp up on last years stock top end F24C. The dyno owner said its as strong as the strongest K24A race engines he does so that at least gives me a comparison. Power was still climbing, but due to the rod ratio I decided to not get greedy and start revving into the mid/high 8000rpms. I also ran out of time to fiddle with the cam phasing.
It was hungry for VTEC, I kept dropping the cutover point, getting as low as 4250rpm as it needed the extra air flow, even at those lower rpm.
I haven't driven the car yet as it was straight onto the trailer and off to the race track tomorrow morning. The forecast is prediction rain which will be a real bugger. Will post up some videos when I get back next week.
Took a while to get the map sorted out as I had no real base map to work from. Surprisingly the engine didn't need much more than 22-23 degrees of timing to produce its best horsepower. The E85 is a relatively easy fuel to tune as it still runs OK when mega rich. This meant as long as I started on the rich side it would hold loads well while the AEM automapping cleaned up the cells.
I didn't get the same peak numbers as some people on the forum, but it is 60hp up on what I dyno'd a stock motor, and 30hp up on last years stock top end F24C. The dyno owner said its as strong as the strongest K24A race engines he does so that at least gives me a comparison. Power was still climbing, but due to the rod ratio I decided to not get greedy and start revving into the mid/high 8000rpms. I also ran out of time to fiddle with the cam phasing.
It was hungry for VTEC, I kept dropping the cutover point, getting as low as 4250rpm as it needed the extra air flow, even at those lower rpm.
I haven't driven the car yet as it was straight onto the trailer and off to the race track tomorrow morning. The forecast is prediction rain which will be a real bugger. Will post up some videos when I get back next week.
#30
Thread Starter
I'll post some videos up once I get them edited.
Results are in the Marque sports races.
Bathurst results 2010
Luckily the weekend was dry.
Had a reasonable race weekend with a very fast car up to the point I lost a conrod. ( The main straight there is called Conrod Straight for a reason).
I only just made it to qualifying as one of my fuel lines split as I was lining up to go on the track. I had a rushed repair in the pits and got out for two laps. Still managed 10th place. The change to E85 really messed with my fuel lines, I had to replace all of the rubber lines as they started to split and crack less than a week after changing over from Elf LMS to the E85.
My car was topping out at around 155 mph which was at my rpm limiter 8300 in 6th gear with a 3.9 differential. This was approx 10-15 mph quicker than last year.
My car was running up with cars like a 700hp GT40 replica, a few Honda K20 powered supercharge elises and a supercharged toyota version of the PRB clubman l drive.
Race 1 worked up to 5th place, same on race 2. Race 3 I put in my best times and got into 4th place and had started the last lap when the engine went bang on the pit straight. I coasted to a stop with the clutch in and surprisingly the engine was still idling when I pulled up. ( a bit rough as it only had 3 cylinders).
I wont get a chance to pull it down for a few weeks, but looking at the small hole near the starter it looks like the bottom end of the rod failed, and the piston has parked itself at the top of the bore. There was no smoke out the exhaust and the water jackets were not pierced.
The track has some very high speed straights and I was pretty much maxed out at 8000-8300 rpm for very long periods of time. I'm pretty certain that this was too much for the componentry with the F24C rod/stroke ratio. Had I known the car was going to be so fast I would have fitted a 3.63 ratio differential.
I'm hoping that the Toda cams are not damaged so I can reuse them in my next build. I've already started planning for a F22 build for next year. Current plans are to use a F22C crank, high quality after market AP1 length rods and some custom high compression pistons on FRM bores. That way I should be able to rev it up to 9000rpm safely.
Hope to have race videos edited and posted in the next few days.
Results are in the Marque sports races.
Bathurst results 2010
Luckily the weekend was dry.
Had a reasonable race weekend with a very fast car up to the point I lost a conrod. ( The main straight there is called Conrod Straight for a reason).
I only just made it to qualifying as one of my fuel lines split as I was lining up to go on the track. I had a rushed repair in the pits and got out for two laps. Still managed 10th place. The change to E85 really messed with my fuel lines, I had to replace all of the rubber lines as they started to split and crack less than a week after changing over from Elf LMS to the E85.
My car was topping out at around 155 mph which was at my rpm limiter 8300 in 6th gear with a 3.9 differential. This was approx 10-15 mph quicker than last year.
My car was running up with cars like a 700hp GT40 replica, a few Honda K20 powered supercharge elises and a supercharged toyota version of the PRB clubman l drive.
Race 1 worked up to 5th place, same on race 2. Race 3 I put in my best times and got into 4th place and had started the last lap when the engine went bang on the pit straight. I coasted to a stop with the clutch in and surprisingly the engine was still idling when I pulled up. ( a bit rough as it only had 3 cylinders).
I wont get a chance to pull it down for a few weeks, but looking at the small hole near the starter it looks like the bottom end of the rod failed, and the piston has parked itself at the top of the bore. There was no smoke out the exhaust and the water jackets were not pierced.
The track has some very high speed straights and I was pretty much maxed out at 8000-8300 rpm for very long periods of time. I'm pretty certain that this was too much for the componentry with the F24C rod/stroke ratio. Had I known the car was going to be so fast I would have fitted a 3.63 ratio differential.
I'm hoping that the Toda cams are not damaged so I can reuse them in my next build. I've already started planning for a F22 build for next year. Current plans are to use a F22C crank, high quality after market AP1 length rods and some custom high compression pistons on FRM bores. That way I should be able to rev it up to 9000rpm safely.
Hope to have race videos edited and posted in the next few days.