Regardless of the outcome that'll be a good day for sure
hopefully it works out the way you want it to.

 

blah, just got back from the garage, mock up went really well but then when it came to welding it just wasn't happening..

28g too thin

I'm gonna get some 18g stainless and try with that, its going in place of the cruise control and oem overflow, one can, divided in half, 1 section with a little over 30oz for the overflow and anther section for the breather.

i was thinking using one small diameter hose off the intake for suction, and then 2 large off the valve cover, the breather and anther -10 tapped in front.

should be more than enough, also skipping the little fill level guage on the side.. that's useless. just open it, lol. drain on the bottom.

 

Interesting info on here. I've been thinking about this for a while.

 

I think I have a very EFFECTIVE and affordable solution coming along.

 

One trick I use on high G cornering race cars is to drain the catch can back to the sump. Put a fitting low on the sump under the oil level so it acts as a one way valve. If you drain back above the oil level the crankcase gasses will carry oil up from the sump into the catchcan.

Just make sure your catch vent is filtered as you dont want any dust/dirt entering the sump via the breather.

This setup avoids the oil level dropping as the catch can fills up.

 

I put 3 5/8 hoses coming off my valve cover under the stock baffle.. that area on the vc is more than thick enough to tap, no welding needed.

when i was washing the vc out it took FOREVER to get all the water out of the baffled area. Oil getting trapped up there would come out the pcv, the stock breather hole and the new holes.

seat of the pants cant tell any difference in how the motor runs before/after the addition of the 3 5/8 hoses.. I'll plug them next time i'm on the dyno and see what happens. If there is no power difference then i'm going to put my spare stock vc back on and just run the oem stock breather hose to a can.

 

Working on this still....



I'm having Peterson Fluid Systems modify one of there existing, baffled breather tanks (model 08-0410). I am having them delete the petcock drain on the tank and adding a single -10 AN male fitting at the bottom for drain back to the oil pan.

I will be adding a single -10 AN fitting to the oil pan, below the oil level for drain back. Location not determined as of yet...

I will also be adding a single -12 AN male bung to an AP2 valve cover at the front near the timing chain which will obviously run to the -12 AN fitting on the tank. In order to maximize breathing of crank case pressure & to take advantage of the OEM baffle in the valve cover, I will be running the OEM PCV valve (modified to -8 AN) and the OEM breather T'd together into a single -8 AN line and into the breather.

I think this will be a fairly cheap solution that will provide trouble free service for breathing crank case pressure and getting rid of the pesky right hand turn blow by problem. Besides, the money I save just from the wasted oil will quickly pay for itself!

I will update with pictures once parts come in, modifications take place, and I get the system plumbed.

-Rob

 

This was recently a hot topic in the forced induction forums as well. Lots more info at the end of that thread on how these cans are designed to work.

Link:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=142&t=777049

 

Doesn't that work only if the car stands still?

 

Works fine on race cars I build pulling 2G's on wet sumps. If you put the drain oil fitting near the very bottom of the sump there will always be oil there. It takes a lot of crankcase pressure to push sump oil up the drain pipe, especially if its venting through the top.

One mistake people make is putting the drain high up on the sump, during cornering this becomes uncovered by the oil so it becomes a vent and can carry oil up from the sump.

One other thing to consider is that under over run the crankcase can actually develop vacuum which will help draw oil back from the catch tank.