[QUOTE=gernby,Mar 1 2010, 01:56 PM] This is cool, but it doesn't appear to have a drain line heading back to the oil pan.

 

Usually a lot of the oil catch cans/oil separators have a valve on the bottom of the can so you can drain out the collected oil easily. There's no reason to have it connect to your oil pan. A slightly bigger can may benefit as well. Bigger than the pic up there ^^^^

 

I'm getting ready to run an almost identical can attached to the front of my crossmember. I plan on running both existing valve cover vents into it and cap the ports on the intake manifold and tube.

 

venting on the front is probably the best place if youre not trying to loose excess oil. a local place just started making these catch tank/rad overflow combos as an alternative and more fuctional version of the j's

http://www.buyimportperformance.com/S2000_...s-s2000-can.htm

 

^ In my opinion, the design of that breather tank is fundamentally flawed. The lowest AN port is above the breather opening!!! There is also no mention as to whether or not its baffled (which could also be above the AN port). It's probably more show than go.

I was also thinking that the front of the cover might be a good location since the oil will more than likely make it's way down the timing chain opening but here is still a question about what will happen under braking.

I think I'm gonna try to do it on the opposite side and on the angled part.

-Rob

 

i really need to start fabbing up some coolant/breather cans for you guys. The ones on the market are horrid, cost way to much, or are so cheap there embarrassing alternative to a mnt dew can or the stock system.

If i started to build these for you guys, with being the most cost effective, what would everyone want.

anther thing, why is everyone running an lines.. its just vacum, 5psi at beast, stainless steel lines, an fittings, etc seem like such a waste. npt fitting and auto zone black vacuum line would most likely be in my kit

 

if youre filling that can up to where the breather tank is in a 20 min run on the road coarse, youve got more problems than bad breather hole placement. definitely not more show than go

 

Actually I was just thinking about that.... I'll more than likely go with NPT and just a straight barb to keep it simple and cheap. It's just that most of the good baffled breather tanks come with a 12AN male fitting. (generally used to breath dry sump tanks).

What I'm looking for....is excellent baffling, a true breather, and a large capacity of at least 24-32oz. It should also be quick and easy to remove and install as it will have to be drained between sessions.


-Rob

 

There is a problem and I want to resolve it Just to be clear I'm not talking about the vapors from blow by....I'm talking about oil that freely flows out the OEM breather and PCV during sustained high G cornering loads. It's kinda particular to right hand turns with heavy braking zones afterwards. I'm not the only one with this problem. All of us souther CA guys are running multiple catch cans and breathers with overflow just to keep us on track for 30mins. It's a real PITA.

The breather tank is not really all that important....I'm looking to relocate the breather opening on the OEM valve cover so that I can prevent this river of oil form flowing out.

-Rob

 

For a NA setup,

block up the PVC, run the main breather to your catch tank. Make sure the catch tank is filtered where is breaths to atmosphere. If you want it can breath back to the inlet elbow before the throttle body.

Drain the catch tank back to the sump with at least a -10 hose. Drain the oil back into the drain plug below the oil level. The weight of the oil acts as simple one way valve and avoids blowby working up the drain line into your catch tank.

When you lift off and get crankcase vacuum the catch tank will be sucked dry.

Make sure your catch tank is large enough to hold oil during cornering before it has a chance to drain back.