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Vtec cam upgrade question

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Old 12-27-2007, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wills2k106,Dec 27 2007, 08:21 AM
VTEC isn't a single cam to be swapped, it operates an additional lobe for each pair of valves in the cylinder.

To clear up some confusion...our VTEC switchover is 5900-6000 I think.
http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?vid=383477
Yeah interesting, thanks! Normal Ap1 vtec kicks in at 5850rpm was the consensus on some pretty involved thread I ran into a wile back. Nothing cam up about the actual function however
Old 12-27-2007, 02:45 PM
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- 70mm exhaust
- 70mm throttle body
- Port and Polish both intake runner and intake/exhaust ports
- ITB (must be used with AEM and good tuner)
- AEM stand alone or Greddy Ultimate and good tuner (this will net you some good gains)
- Header

If I had the money and in your frame of mind I would get a decent header and get a good ECU and good tuner. The tuner will free up some good HP (Giles (sp?) I believe has a ECU tuned package, along with cold plugs, thermostat, a fan switch)
Old 12-27-2007, 03:27 PM
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Ya, I would say some Hytech cams and EMS and a Hytech header would get you close to or even passed the 250hp mark since Mines is pushing 275 with ITB's but nothing done to the bottom end. (this will not be cheap though their Cams are pricey and so is their long tube header )

The biggest downside is Hytech can have uber-long turn around times, but they def know what they are doing.

Good luck!
Old 12-27-2007, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by iDomN8U,Dec 27 2007, 03:45 PM
- 70mm exhaust
- 70mm throttle body
- Port and Polish both intake runner and intake/exhaust ports
- ITB (must be used with AEM and good tuner)
- AEM stand alone or Greddy Ultimate and good tuner (this will net you some good gains)
- Header

If I had the money and in your frame of mind I would get a decent header and get a good ECU and good tuner. The tuner will free up some good HP (Giles (sp?) I believe has a ECU tuned package, along with cold plugs, thermostat, a fan switch)
ok, well thanks for the tips. A bit off my topic here of finding my cams, but since you mentioned these - hypotheticly say you had an 01 Ap1 with stock power of 190whp, if you did all your recomendations, how much wheel hp do you reasonably think you would have when all said and done? And also just as important, if you took each one of these mods you have listed as individually and determined how much each one cost including Labor. Break it down, i'd like to make some comparisons for shits and giggles. I'll start.

From my earlier post of my Dyno Jet power of 225- 230 to the wheels currently.

-Tanabe cat back $680/ Cost to me $100, insurance paid for the rest
-Flywheel $280/ free install do to warrenty engine repairs
-Test pipe $80/ installation by me
-Ebay catch can and breather bypass. $9 breather/$20 catch can, installation by me
-coolant block off to intake, two bearings $1.50 work done by me
-Vafc2 $300 and frog harness $150 installation by me
-AEM wide band monitor $250 /all work other then welding of o2 bung done by me
-o2 bung welded for wideband $45
-several dyno's $350 but not included in cost, will Dyno again for current power finalization before installation of cams. All tuning done by me.

Grand total for approx 40 extra whp currently $1236.50 my pocket

Considering most off these mods are strait bolt ons which I could perform rather then pay someone, or do to other sercomstances where labor cost was not involved. I understand you could easily double the cost for these same mods if you paid labor, so lets just assume $3000 as a good liberal price for the list above for 35-40hp to the wheels. Ok your turn.
Old 12-27-2007, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by neveronlines2k,Dec 27 2007, 04:27 PM
Ya, I would say some Hytech cams and EMS and a Hytech header would get you close to or even passed the 250hp mark since Mines is pushing 275 with ITB's but nothing done to the bottom end. (this will not be cheap though their Cams are pricey and so is their long tube header )

The biggest downside is Hytech can have uber-long turn around times, but they def know what they are doing.

Good luck!
250hp to the wheels I assume? That would be sweet, so your saying the header, EMS and cams will net you about 50-60whp? Just these three things or what? Or is your post part of the collaboration of the previous persons post? Please clarify. Also if someone could figure out how much all this cost. Its all about cost vs power for me. Thanks for the Luck, its been pretty good to me so far
Old 12-27-2007, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Dec 27 2007, 04:58 PM
ok, well thanks for the tips. A bit off my topic here of finding my cams, but since you mentioned these - hypotheticly say you had an 01 Ap1 with stock power of 190whp, if you did all your recomendations, how much wheel hp do you reasonably think you would have when all said and done? And also just as important, if you took each one of these mods you have listed as individually and determined how much each one cost including Labor. Break it down, i'd like to make some comparisons for shits and giggles. I'll start.

From my earlier post of my Dyno Jet power of 225- 230 to the wheels currently.

-Tanabe cat back $680/ Cost to me $100, insurance paid for the rest
-Flywheel $280/ free install do to warrenty engine repairs
-Test pipe $80/ installation by me
-Ebay catch can and breather bypass. $9 breather/$20 catch can, installation by me
-coolant block off to intake, two bearings $1.50 work done by me
-Vafc2 $300 and frog harness $150 installation by me
-AEM wide band monitor $250 /all work other then welding of o2 bung done by me
-o2 bung welded for wideband $45
-several dyno's $350 but not included in cost, will Dyno again for current power finalization before installation of cams. All tuning done by me.

Grand total for approx 40 extra whp currently $1236.50 my pocket

Considering most off these mods are strait bolt ons which I could perform rather then pay someone, or do to other sercomstances where labor cost was not involved. I understand you could easily double the cost for these same mods if you paid labor, so lets just assume $3000 as a good liberal price for the list above for 35-40hp to the wheels. Ok your turn.
Peak HP is one thing, your delta is another.

All i'm suggesting (and I think most people here are too) is that Cams should be the last thing on your mind if you want to increase your performance.

A single 70mm exhaust ($1000.00) will net you 10-12hp

Headers are all over the place in cost, but some give top end some mid. (maybe 5hp), cheap routes are berk, megan, ricks (300-700). J's, Hytech, Mugen, Toda (1200 ish) and you could gain a little more (5-7hp)

ITB - Not sure about, but IIRC your tq and mid rpm performance will be dramatically increased (12-18hp??) $1200 + ECU + Tuning = 2500 ish?

A ECU and good tuner without any upgrades will could net you between 5-20 hp (depending on the rpm band area)

If you are being money conscience. Get rid of weight (spare tire, tools, lighter rims, Ti exhaust, shave the afro, go on a diet, etc..)

The next step would be to stroke your motor.

Theoretically you could hit 260-270 whp, but it never works out that way.
Old 12-27-2007, 05:23 PM
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Thanks for your input. I'm not sure what to think about cams yet, understanding application is different depending on your related mods, I'm not sure if I will make any more improvement without some of these other things. Skunk has 3 difforent levals of cam profiles depending on your related modifications, so technically they have one for a stock engine and one for a bolt on and then one beyond for extreme aplications. I feel like I coud fall between either the first or second profile, but again I feel like a ginny pig here with not hearing allot of experience with these in particular. And then to find one guy on s2ki is selling his stage 2's, makes me scratch my head.

Yes I agree peek is only so usable. I've a got a pretty strong power curve with my current work considering, with 128tq at 3000rpm and 146tq at 6300. This is before my latest changes however and am expecting to have some higher numbers in places, sertanly on the top end more then anywhere else by how much I was able to lean this rpm range out on the VAFC. I think by keeping the factory header and 60mm duel I may have maintained the right back pressure for maintaining and enhancing tq and hp throughout the entire rpm range. I have gotten rid of the typical dip in hp starting from 5600-6000rpm. My power curve continues to rise up to my vtec change over point of 6100, from there it is a significantly stronger boost from the latter engagement with a steep 28hp rather then 20ish with a week spike. Peak hp looks to still be in the 8300 range from my last dyno. Looking forward to getting my updated dyno graph. I wanted to do one before cam install anyways if I decide to do these.

ITB suck hot air don't they? Whats the benafit with these really? Is it just the short charge path they take, does this offset the heat they consume? Is this why they seem to make good midrange gains but not much on top? Its a cool looking mod but at $2500 I have seen for these which isn't including the other $2500 it takes to make them work, I can't say they are in my scope.
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