combats2000

what system do you run?

how do you like it so far?

how much of a spray?


does changing to colder plugs hurt your performance w/out nitrous?


pics too


so far after reading alot on forum i was thinking to get a zex kit..

D1sclaimer

I have the NOS kit which I installed this last summer. Its part number 05122NOS. It is dry, not wet. Many will tell you to go wet because it "hits harder." Truth is, the reason why they hit harder is because nitrous is at 900-1000psi and your fuel is at 40-45psi and the nitrous gets to the cylinders first and has a lean spike for less than a second which I don't like risking. Wet kits are also the ones you see on youtube with people blowing up their intakes because they spray too early and the fuel doesn't flow in the intake causing it to pool and ignite. The risk can 99% be taken away with a window switch so your nitrous doesn't activate before a preset rpm.

I love it. Everyone keeps telling me to go turbo, but I can't afford a turbo. This gets me by for 35 bucks of nitrous a month.

70 shot. Technically if I'd follow the jetting that the kit recommended, it'd be considered a 80 shot, but its flywheel hp and exaggerated. I call it my 70 crank shot and it should give me about 55-60whp. This is with a .038 nitrous jet. I wouldn't recommend going higher without a way to retard your timing. ex. greddy ultimate or aem 1052. I see minimal detonation signs on my plugs, but my timing mark is crap.

I change out my plugs once a month or every bottle to check to see how I'm running. I just throw away my old ones and put in new NGK coppers. With the semi-aggressive gapping (.037) they last fine with no fouling. I've tried one step colder and two step colder and both actually work NA with no felt power loss. The 2 steps colder plugs did feel like they were fowling out after a 1,500miles. If you want a resistorless copper plug thats a heat range colder than stock, NGK 7173 are your plugs. Or if you want to try 2 steps colder, NGK 7405 are your plugs. Don't use platinum as nitrous doesn't mix well with platinum. Iridiums are fine, but I check mine every so often so I figure I'll just throw new plugs in. Copper are cheap and work great.

I have my opinion about Zex kits. Many people have them, but I see more people with blown engines with Zex for some reason. This is about dry kits, not wet. I think its because 3 flaws. No fuel pressure safety switch in the kit to cut nitrous if fuel pressure drops. You can buy one for like 30 bucks, but it doesn't come in the kit. Another flaw is that its harder to adjust jets for higher than a 90-100 shot with Zex simply because the tee in the "smart box" isn't big enough. With the NOS dry kit, you can put a shim in the regulator for bigger shots to boost more pressure to prevent going lean. The third flaw is that if your solenoid in the box goes out or any of the circuits in the box go out, you need to buy a whole new box for a couple hundred bucks. With NOS, you can buy relays and the harness for 15 bucks on ebay and use any solenoid if yours goes out. NOS also invented the dry kit on the 5.0 mustangs. Zex just made a copy.

If you're looking at wet, I've heard good things about Zex. Their "smart box" makes an easier install since things are in the box and less wiring is required.

Were you going wet or dry? I can tell you if you're looking at a good kit or not.

Nickamsweet

Would it be safe using nitrous with a turbocharged system? or make no difference at all?

I have a dry kit just laying in my bedroom...found off Ebay for CHEAP so it is worth to look around!!! mine was full kit, 10lb bottle, heater, purge kit etc.

combats2000

Good info thanks,

I cant see how running a wet kit is more dangerous then a dry kit, I have used wet kits before, and was told by many people dry kits are far more dangerous.


anyways, ill keep doing my research, do you have links to the kit you have?

Nickamsweet

I think wet kits are most likely more safe... BUT its just that it relies on added fuel, if there is lag or a blockage then an excessive amount of nitrous can be added to the engine... whereas the DRY nitrous oxide is only added in an amount that the engine can always handle...

D1sclaimer

With a fuel pressure safety switch (in the NOS kit) hooked up to a dry kit, if your fuel pressure drops your system turns off thus saving your engine. No chance in going lean unless your tune is out of whack if you have a tune.

I seriously never got the internet tale of wet kits being safer than dry. You have fuel flowing in your intake with a wet kit. Your intake is designed to not flow liquids, only gases/air. You also have better cylinder distribution with dry since its not drug down with fuel so it will atomize better than a wet kit.

In all seriousness, if you're only gonna do up to a 75 shot, a standard wet kit, or dry kit will be fine. Its when you go higher, with wet and dry, is where people don't take the precautions and blow their engines mostly. People don't know you need to boost fuel pressure more with dry kits, thats why people think they're not as safe because idiots don't boost fuel pressure more and go lean. And with higher wet shots, people spray too early and cause pooling with more fuel.

Heres a link to mine.
my NOS kit

geoffrey06

Please do not listen to this guy above about the dry kit.... He has most of his facts right, but for a newer model fuel injected car you need to tune accordingly for nitrous. Please if you will D1sclaimer post up a dyno sheet with you spraying that shows your AFR's. With a standard dry kit your car will run dangerously lean when your spraying. If you get a dry kit you will need larger injectors and engine management(ems/kpro) that controls nitrous so that it can put more fuel in when your spraying.

Stick with a wet kit for ease of use. I'd go with a Nitrous Express kit, they're about the best around. Keep it under a 75 shot and you should be good with standard timing. Get 1 step colder plugs, you'll never even be able to tell you have the colder plugs in either. You'll want a bottle warmer too, even in a warm climate, trust me, im in south GA and you still benefit from one here.

D1sclaimer

[quote name='geoffrey06' date='Dec 24 2008, 07:40 PM']Please do not listen to this guy above about the dry kit.... He has most of his facts right, but for a newer model fuel injected car you need to tune accordingly for nitrous. Please if you will D1sclaimer post up a dyno sheet with you spraying that shows your AFR's. With a standard dry kit your car will run dangerously lean when your spraying. If you get a dry kit you will need larger injectors and engine management(ems/kpro) that controls nitrous so that it can put more fuel in when your spraying.

geoffrey06

To the OP, you can listen to this guy and go dry kit if you want. I honestly just don't feel like arguing with him or I'd correct everything he just bs'd about. Just call a local tuner and see what they advise.

smirfs2k05

Wait so it leaned out to 13 than richened up below 10 ? This graph isn't telling the whole story. I too have always preferred a wet kit over a dry kit for the reason that your injecting fuel/n2o and not just n2o. But everyone has their preference I'm not saying ones better than the other its just about preference and what you're comfortable with.