Scraped my bumper: need paint & primer advice
#1
Scraped my bumper: need paint & primer advice
Yesterday I pulled into an auto parts store parking lot to buy some cleaning stuff. The irony. They had high curbs and no wheel stops, and now I have 1" tall white scratches the width of my front bumper lip on my nice black car. It's not the end of the world, but I want to fix it. My concern is any special treatment I'd need for the flexible plastic nose when I select paint and primer.
I've never painted anything this large, but I've done enough models now that I'm familiar with how to paint and I might use an airbrush. My plan would be to sand down teh scratches, fill as necessary with something like Nitro-Stan filler, then prime, paint, and polish. Just the 1" or so lower lip edge of the front bumper.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I've never painted anything this large, but I've done enough models now that I'm familiar with how to paint and I might use an airbrush. My plan would be to sand down teh scratches, fill as necessary with something like Nitro-Stan filler, then prime, paint, and polish. Just the 1" or so lower lip edge of the front bumper.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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#9
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Location: Utica, Upstate NY
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Never paint just a part of the car... it needs to be color blended within a part, not at a seam. There is a bumper primer but it is very expensive. Ive sprayed car before without it and they did fine. Just RED SCUFFY PAD the area... fill in where needed with plastic filler and sand down to atleast 400 grit...wax and grease remover.. mask of the area and use the double sided tape trick (see below for instructions in this step)... prime... remove masking and wet sand the area with 600 grit wet (sand paper should say wet or dry on the back) dont sand it off, just make is smooth... wax and grease remover again... double sided tape agian with masking paper too... spray a light coat of paint...wait 10 minutes... spray 2 wet coats of paint... 10 mins between... wait another 10 mins and spray the clear but this time pull the tape back after the final coat of clear (the hard line will lay down flat)... wet sand with 2000 grit... buff with compound then finish with a glaze.
Double sided tape... put half the masking tape (long way) down then stick another piece facing up (stick side to sticky side) and roll it away fron the soon to be painted area. this makes it so that there arent any hard lines like a square where you painted.
theres alot to painting and theres alot more to go wrong. Take your time and wash the area with soap and water AND wax and grease. Some contaminates are water soluable and others are solvent soluable.
GOOD LUCK
Double sided tape... put half the masking tape (long way) down then stick another piece facing up (stick side to sticky side) and roll it away fron the soon to be painted area. this makes it so that there arent any hard lines like a square where you painted.
theres alot to painting and theres alot more to go wrong. Take your time and wash the area with soap and water AND wax and grease. Some contaminates are water soluable and others are solvent soluable.
GOOD LUCK
#10
Ok..now THAT scares me . Does clearcoat come in spray cans or will I have to buy it in a can and use an airbrush? And you spray it on without letting the undercoat dry fully?