fishs2000

Hey guys,

I did a search and actually pulled up a thread that I started a while ago regarding rotors and pads. I'm looking to change out my rotors and pads as mine are squeeling to all hell and I cant handle it anymore.

Im going FI very soon so something with a little more bit is also something I am now after.

From my search, i have gathered that stock AP1 pads (even for the AP2) are good pads for low dust and no squeel? Would I be correct in this statement?

Could some of you who may be FI post your experience or recommendation for rotors / pads?

Rotors - Im looking for slotted or cross drilled / or even both - I want them to look "sick" sitting there behind my wheels, but also serve a performace purpose.
From my gathering again - Centric or Powerslot rotors would be the right "fit" here for what I am trying to acheive - any input on this?

As well, should I use Hawk pads with these rotors or woudl stock AP1 pads be sufficient?

thanks for the help in advance.

MP2k

I'm using DBA 4000 series slotted rotors and AP1 pads. Love em. The pads are silent and hardly dust at all. The rotors were noticeably beefier than the stock ones and I think the slots look pretty sweet. A little different than your normal slots. I don't track my car or anything but I have done several ABS inducing stops from 115+ just make sure it stops like it should. That didn't even change the temp sensitive paint marks on the rotors. I'm happy. I think DBA might even make some 2 piece rotors that work with stock calipers if you wanted something better but not quite a BBK.

jeffbrig

I'm using AP1 pads and Racing Brake drilled/slotted rotors.





Love the look of these when they are new/clean. Unfortunately, rust is still unavoidable with time. Brake dust has iron bits in it, and a tiny bit of the inside of the rotor face isn't swept by the pad. Which reminds me, I need to take some new pics and add them to my old "rotors are rust" thread.

mikegarrison

There is no "performance purpose" that they serve. If you select a set based on this criteria, you are just fooling yourself.

So just select the ones that "look 'sick' sitting there" to your eyes, and you will be happiest.

jdmdohcpower

I have powerslot rotors and steel lines. I kept the stock AP1 pads and never put the Hawks on becuase the car just stops so good, I dont see a reason to put the hawk pads on with the extra dust they throw. Powerslot rotors look great and the serve the purpose of extra stopping power. If you want to stop better get slotted, if you want to look like you can stop better get drilled.

mikegarrison

This is exactly what I meant about "fooling yourself".

Infidel99

Go with Hawk pads and slotted rotors. PM SubZero about his Zinc & cryogenic options. The rotors will stay rust free and the car will stop on a dime and give you about $0.08 in change. You should also get some SS brake lines to max the performance/feel.

Avoid the crossdrilled, especially if you're going to track it. You may think they look sick, but you'll be sick when one cracks.

I have an 07 and will be doing the SS lines, slotted (zinc/cryo) rotors and hawks pads (having them cryo too) as soon as these wear out. I have a KW SC with a 4.56. Stopping power is next on my list.

Good luck with your decision.

zbrewha863

I don't know about the stainless lines, I don't like them personally (reduce the braking feel, don't increase stopping power at all).

Another plus about the slotted rotors is that many shops can turn them for you, whereas you can't do it to cross-drilled rotors, so you save money on replacements too.

mikegarrison

Not turning them saves even more money. Why would you lathe perfectly good metal off of a rotor? I have yet to understand the rationale for this, other than to create profit for the shop doing it.

Neutered Sputniks

As for the slotted rotors bit...I just installed Racing Brake 2-piece slotted fronts and Powerslot slotted rears. HP+ pads up front, HPS pads in the rear.

Does the car stop any better than it did with the stock rotors and HP+ pads? Nope.



Slotted rotors are for the look. I would've been just as happy with a 2-piece rotor that's not slotted (and doesn't cost 2x as much as the RB rotors). And the rears are slotted to match the appearance of the front rotors. Honestly, I didn't even save that much weight going to 2 piece rotors. I just know that I'm hard on brakes and plan to have the S long enough that they'll pay for themselves in time (less expensive to replace just the friction part of the rotor than the OEM rotors).


I wouldn't bother turning rotors unless they're showing extreme gouges - and even then, chances are that by the time they've been turned, there won't be enough run-out to make it worth my time to install them back on.