Nitron Shocks?
#21
You won't be happy until you waste your money on suspension that you can't adjust properly, and that sends you down a rabbit hole of endless adjustments that leave you worse then where you started.
Going from stock shocks to 3 way adjustable with no experience with adjusting suspension is like expecting to play like a master by buying a Stradivarius.
But nothing anyone says here will convince you otherwise.
So by all means, go buy this suspension...
Going from stock shocks to 3 way adjustable with no experience with adjusting suspension is like expecting to play like a master by buying a Stradivarius.
But nothing anyone says here will convince you otherwise.
So by all means, go buy this suspension...
The following users liked this post:
afzan (09-05-2019)
#23
You won't be happy until you waste your money on suspension that you can't adjust properly, and that sends you down a rabbit hole of endless adjustments that leave you worse then where you started.
Going from stock shocks to 3 way adjustable with no experience with adjusting suspension is like expecting to play like a master by buying a Stradivarius.
But nothing anyone says here will convince you otherwise.
So by all means, go buy this suspension...
Going from stock shocks to 3 way adjustable with no experience with adjusting suspension is like expecting to play like a master by buying a Stradivarius.
But nothing anyone says here will convince you otherwise.
So by all means, go buy this suspension...
#24
Buy something high quality with basic adjustments, like Ohlins DFV. Learn to adjust them. Play around with settings, see the results.
Do research on what settings actually do. Raising ride height on one vs the other has what effect on dynamic balance? Increasing damping has what effect on traction? On ride comfort? On control? Learn what setting changes should do, then see what they really do.
Most importantly, change only one thing at a time.
Take lots of notes.
After doing all that, once you feel like the suspension you have now is limiting you, go the next step with more adjustable suspension, and start the whole process over again.
If you did it right, you'll never actually achieve that limitation unless you're trying to be competitive on track and chasing 10's...
Do research on what settings actually do. Raising ride height on one vs the other has what effect on dynamic balance? Increasing damping has what effect on traction? On ride comfort? On control? Learn what setting changes should do, then see what they really do.
Most importantly, change only one thing at a time.
Take lots of notes.
After doing all that, once you feel like the suspension you have now is limiting you, go the next step with more adjustable suspension, and start the whole process over again.
If you did it right, you'll never actually achieve that limitation unless you're trying to be competitive on track and chasing 10's...
#25
Also, pick up a datalogger so you can quantify all the changes. If you're looking to spend $3000+ on suspension, the least you can do is spend $500 on the hardware and software to be able to properly analyze your setup.You can also start with a suspension with room for upgrades so you aren't replacing everything or completely changing your setup each time. MCS 1WNR/2WR, Ohlins TTX, Penske 8300, and Koni Yellow (yes, really) are solid picks for upgradeable dampers with wide spring compatibility. Admittedly, the only ones of those that are cheaper than the Nitrons are the MCS 1WNR and the Konis (and the MCS will become more expensive after the upgrade), but all of them are known high quality parts. The Ohlins TTX in particular are considered among if not the absolute best dampers for our platform and can be upgraded to 3 or 4 way. By then you'll be at double the price of the Nitrons, but you'll also have arguably the highest end setup you can get without going full custom with Multimatic DSSVs or replacing your suspension with a push rod configuration or something similarly ludicrous.
At any rate, do your homework and decide what you really need from your suspension. I'm building my S2000 to be at least somewhat competitive in SCCA Time Trials while still being able to DD, so I need different things from somebody looking to build a HPDE/canyon carver with no rules or a dedicated STR competitor. The truth is really that unless you're trying to reach the pointy end of performance and win major events, you don't need a super fancy suspension setup. Even then, sometimes the fancy suspension makes you less competitive. If you were planning on participating in Gridlife/GTA/SLB, for example, 3 way adjustable suspension puts you in with the supercharged LS swapped Miatas with 5" splitters, wangs the size of Texas, stripped interiors, and Hoosiers. Not a friendly place for a DD S2000.
At any rate, do your homework and decide what you really need from your suspension. I'm building my S2000 to be at least somewhat competitive in SCCA Time Trials while still being able to DD, so I need different things from somebody looking to build a HPDE/canyon carver with no rules or a dedicated STR competitor. The truth is really that unless you're trying to reach the pointy end of performance and win major events, you don't need a super fancy suspension setup. Even then, sometimes the fancy suspension makes you less competitive. If you were planning on participating in Gridlife/GTA/SLB, for example, 3 way adjustable suspension puts you in with the supercharged LS swapped Miatas with 5" splitters, wangs the size of Texas, stripped interiors, and Hoosiers. Not a friendly place for a DD S2000.
#26
Buy something high quality with basic adjustments, like Ohlins DFV. Learn to adjust them. Play around with settings, see the results.
Do research on what settings actually do. Raising ride height on one vs the other has what effect on dynamic balance? Increasing damping has what effect on traction? On ride comfort? On control? Learn what setting changes should do, then see what they really do.
Most importantly, change only one thing at a time.
Take lots of notes.
After doing all that, once you feel like the suspension you have now is limiting you, go the next step with more adjustable suspension, and start the whole process over again.
If you did it right, you'll never actually achieve that limitation unless you're trying to be competitive on track and chasing 10's...
Do research on what settings actually do. Raising ride height on one vs the other has what effect on dynamic balance? Increasing damping has what effect on traction? On ride comfort? On control? Learn what setting changes should do, then see what they really do.
Most importantly, change only one thing at a time.
Take lots of notes.
After doing all that, once you feel like the suspension you have now is limiting you, go the next step with more adjustable suspension, and start the whole process over again.
If you did it right, you'll never actually achieve that limitation unless you're trying to be competitive on track and chasing 10's...
#27
The Nitrons can be upgraded from single adjustable to triple in the future. The R1 and R3s share lots of the same internals. If you’re looking at options like Nitron and Ohlins I would probably stay at that level instead of looking at shocks with lots of made in Taiwan parts like the Fortune stuff.
#28
Also, pick up a datalogger so you can quantify all the changes. If you're looking to spend $3000+ on suspension, the least you can do is spend $500 on the hardware and software to be able to properly analyze your setup.You can also start with a suspension with room for upgrades so you aren't replacing everything or completely changing your setup each time. MCS 1WNR/2WR, Ohlins TTX, Penske 8300, and Koni Yellow (yes, really) are solid picks for upgradeable dampers with wide spring compatibility. Admittedly, the only ones of those that are cheaper than the Nitrons are the MCS 1WNR and the Konis (and the MCS will become more expensive after the upgrade), but all of them are known high quality parts. The Ohlins TTX in particular are considered among if not the absolute best dampers for our platform and can be upgraded to 3 or 4 way. By then you'll be at double the price of the Nitrons, but you'll also have arguably the highest end setup you can get without going full custom with Multimatic DSSVs or replacing your suspension with a push rod configuration or something similarly ludicrous.
At any rate, do your homework and decide what you really need from your suspension. I'm building my S2000 to be at least somewhat competitive in SCCA Time Trials while still being able to DD, so I need different things from somebody looking to build a HPDE/canyon carver with no rules or a dedicated STR competitor. The truth is really that unless you're trying to reach the pointy end of performance and win major events, you don't need a super fancy suspension setup. Even then, sometimes the fancy suspension makes you less competitive. If you were planning on participating in Gridlife/GTA/SLB, for example, 3 way adjustable suspension puts you in with the supercharged LS swapped Miatas with 5" splitters, wangs the size of Texas, stripped interiors, and Hoosiers. Not a friendly place for a DD S2000.
At any rate, do your homework and decide what you really need from your suspension. I'm building my S2000 to be at least somewhat competitive in SCCA Time Trials while still being able to DD, so I need different things from somebody looking to build a HPDE/canyon carver with no rules or a dedicated STR competitor. The truth is really that unless you're trying to reach the pointy end of performance and win major events, you don't need a super fancy suspension setup. Even then, sometimes the fancy suspension makes you less competitive. If you were planning on participating in Gridlife/GTA/SLB, for example, 3 way adjustable suspension puts you in with the supercharged LS swapped Miatas with 5" splitters, wangs the size of Texas, stripped interiors, and Hoosiers. Not a friendly place for a DD S2000.
#29
The Nitrons can be upgraded from single adjustable to triple in the future. The R1 and R3s share lots of the same internals. If you’re looking at options like Nitron and Ohlins I would probably stay at that level instead of looking at shocks with lots of made in Taiwan parts like the Fortune stuff.
#30
The high end stuff by MCS, Penske, JRZ, Moton, Ohlins, etc are not just buy off the shelf and install, for the most part. It is about working with the suspension tuner to come up with a complete package inclusive of anti-roll bars, spring rates, ride height, valving / piston, and spring rates (among other things) that work with your driving style. Find a shop you want to work with like ANZE, ARE, Penske, etc and listen to what they have to say. You are 100% throwing money away if you do not do this.