Looking For A Brake Duct Kit For AP1
#11
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 9,030
Likes: 21
From: South of the pier, Huntington Beach, CA
Two days before, new cad plated rotors:
After first session, cadmium all gone. Here it is on the inside of the wheel:
After the third session with a full lap to cool down without touching the brake pedal:
Tooooooo much heat, inadequate dissipation and thus inadequate air flow to do the job.
This was with R4 pads, MPSC tires and 360 hp. Without the ducting I would not have tried the agressive R4 pads. I thought it was bulletproof but found out different.
On a side note to those who spend hundreds powder coating their calipers, the PlastiCoat $5.95 paint is still going strong.
After first session, cadmium all gone. Here it is on the inside of the wheel:
After the third session with a full lap to cool down without touching the brake pedal:
Tooooooo much heat, inadequate dissipation and thus inadequate air flow to do the job.
This was with R4 pads, MPSC tires and 360 hp. Without the ducting I would not have tried the agressive R4 pads. I thought it was bulletproof but found out different.
On a side note to those who spend hundreds powder coating their calipers, the PlastiCoat $5.95 paint is still going strong.
#13
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 9,030
Likes: 21
From: South of the pier, Huntington Beach, CA
Originally Posted by TwinTurbo540,Mar 13 2008, 09:26 AM
So is the ducting pointless??? It seems as so.
If I were to go after it again, I would build a larger tapered duct face, larger and smoother ducting and a larger ducting nozzle in the dust shield. The tubing would be 3 inch. That ducting is so tortuous I'm sure it was flowing minimal.
The clam shell approach to the rotors would be ideal.
#16
Drilled rotors have more exposed surfice aria to the air. they should have stayed cool enough even with out the ducting woudent one think. The car dont have ducting stock and many people track the car any way and dont have issues..... I had brembo drilled rotors on mine and no issues.....
#17
Originally Posted by Voodoo_S2K,Mar 13 2008, 01:12 PM
You don't think it was just the drilled rotors that are the issue?
So yeah, don't run cross drilled rotors on the track in this car unless you get your jollies from constantly buying new rotors.
#18
Sideways,
What brand of rotors are those?
It seems the rotors shouldn't have cracked under any circumstances anyway, regardless of the cooling. Brakes can get literally red hot, and shouldn't crack. Were these machined rotors or cast?
Anyone else have any advice on cross drilled rotors?
What brand of rotors are those?
It seems the rotors shouldn't have cracked under any circumstances anyway, regardless of the cooling. Brakes can get literally red hot, and shouldn't crack. Were these machined rotors or cast?
Anyone else have any advice on cross drilled rotors?
#19
actually you just bought cheesy drilled rotors, they cracked at the drill spot, this is why people run blanks when racing. slotted, drilled, cross slotted, hyper drilled rotors are just a silly trend.
and please don't link a f1 car with drilled rotors thats a whole different ball park.
and please don't link a f1 car with drilled rotors thats a whole different ball park.
#20
Originally Posted by menkio,Mar 15 2008, 04:41 PM
actually you just bought cheesy drilled rotors, they cracked at the drill spot, this is why people run blanks when racing. slotted, drilled, cross slotted, hyper drilled rotors are just a silly trend.
and please don't link a f1 car with drilled rotors thats a whole different ball park.
and please don't link a f1 car with drilled rotors thats a whole different ball park.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bigteninch
Archived Member S2000 Classifieds and For Sale
21
12-20-2008 12:05 AM