Intake
07-16-2010, 10:56 AM
#11
Registered User
Can't try to watch the vid here at work, but the resin coming off is crappy for an intake that cost a grand. Dont worry man, intakes arent very accurate on dyno's anyways. The PWJDM one is mostly effective when the car is in motion, not while sitting still with no air pushing into it.
07-16-2010, 11:53 AM
#12
As long as the OEM intake isn't heat soaked, it performs almost identically to the PWJDM intake above 6K RPMs, even at 80 MPH. The big benefit in power from the PWJDM intake is in the idrange. If you get a good tune and lower VTEC to the right spot (3500-4000 RPMs), you'll love it.
07-16-2010, 11:55 AM
#13
Registered User
Originally Posted by gernby,Jul 16 2010, 01:53 PM
As long as the OEM intake isn't heat soaked, it performs almost identically to the PWJDM intake above 6K RPMs, even at 80 MPH. The big benefit in power from the PWJDM intake is in the idrange. If you get a good tune and lower VTEC to the right spot (3500-4000 RPMs), you'll love it.
07-16-2010, 05:14 PM
#14
This thread motivated me to try something. I still have a slight rattle noise after doing LOTS of fixing on the air filter chamber (felt pads, dynomat, etc.), so maybe that last rattle is coming from the power chamber. I couldn't find a soft spot like the one mentioned above, so I figure there is a 50/50 chance it would come from the bottom. I also believe that is where most of the heat soak from the radiator occurs.
I decided to put insulation on the outside of the bottom half of the power chamber. It will be somewhat visible, but I don't think it will really be that bad looking. I'll test it tomorrow and post the results.
I decided to put insulation on the outside of the bottom half of the power chamber. It will be somewhat visible, but I don't think it will really be that bad looking. I'll test it tomorrow and post the results.
07-16-2010, 06:11 PM
#15
I am really considering ALSO putting the same spray foam insulation on the INSIDE of the top half of the power chamber. However, I'm really afraid that the spray foam will eventually break off, and be injested by the engine.
07-16-2010, 07:07 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: WA
Posts: 992
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is ridiculous QC on a $1000 intake. Wonder what pre-preg are they using where it flakes off like that. I would expect that from something that costs $300, not $1000. I was initially impressed with their first run of intakes (and wanted one) but now that I see all these issues with fitment and resin separating from the fibers, I'm starting to wonder if they are just using shitty materials nowadays. 
Good luck on getting it fixed, maybe they would send you a new lid if you complained...
Good luck on getting it fixed, maybe they would send you a new lid if you complained...
07-16-2010, 11:05 PM
#18
Originally Posted by 9K-S2K,Jul 16 2010, 07:07 PM
That is ridiculous QC on a $1000 intake. Wonder what pre-preg are they using where it flakes off like that. I would expect that from something that costs $300, not $1000. I was initially impressed with their first run of intakes (and wanted one) but now that I see all these issues with fitment and resin separating from the fibers, I'm starting to wonder if they are just using shitty materials nowadays.
Good luck on getting it fixed, maybe they would send you a new lid if you complained...
Good luck on getting it fixed, maybe they would send you a new lid if you complained...
I've had other problems with other products from them, which they are replacing, but it's been almost 6 or so months now. Kinda bullshit considering I spent a !@#$% load of money on their parts.
Anyways I'm not too sure what to do about it. For size reference, it's about the size of your thumb.
07-17-2010, 04:53 AM
#19
Originally Posted by chilicoke,Jul 16 2010, 10:45 PM
I'm not sure if this is a good idea. Resin by itself without reinforcement (fiber) is incredibly weak and brittle, chances are it will just flake off after some time. I would recommend scuffing the area you would like to reinforce rough with sandpaper (~120ish grit) for better bonding and lay 2-3 layers of 7.5oz (or lighter) cloth to strengthen the area.
Make sure to fully wet out the glass fiber, good luck.
Make sure to fully wet out the glass fiber, good luck.
07-17-2010, 10:55 AM
#20
I don't know if this has really improved anything, since the rattle is kind of intermittent, but it didn't make the rattle during my test drive. Here are some pics of it put back together. The insulation on the bottom of the power chamber gets REALLY close to the pulleys, but not quite enough to touch. I think it turned out well.
BTW, I decided to make my own "cooling plate" while I was at it. I hope this will improve cooling on the track, since my ETC hit 225 F at the last track day.
BTW, I decided to make my own "cooling plate" while I was at it. I hope this will improve cooling on the track, since my ETC hit 225 F at the last track day.