IIGQ Concepts Hardtop
03-07-2009, 11:27 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Terrell, TX
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IIGQ Concepts Hardtop
just like the title says. whats the fitment like of these hardtops? top got slashed, so im in need of a hardtop and want the mugen style. thanks in advance.
03-07-2009, 11:37 AM
#2
I recently bought a C-Wings Hardtop from a seller here, just this past saturday I had it painted. Let me tell you this, I hope I just got a bad mold from the batch cause it needed some attention. The edges were rough and a few weird wave like on the roof. Thankfully it was all taken care of by my bodyshop guy and it looks outstanding.
His words "The hardtop isn't entirely bad, its actually very good compare to many many fiberglass pieces he gets from people to put on their cars"
The install wasn't bad either, real easy to mount up. I do get some wind noise on a windy day on the top front, but that maybe because of my OEM stock strikers that are already worn out. I'll be getting the hardtop strikers from work soon.
The rear window was installed by a professional auto window guy. He charged me 40 bucks for the install, but even then he used his own window seal cause the seal that was included with the hardware ****ing sucks. Its really tough plastic molding that doesn't form well with the window corners. So don't even bother with it, just have a professional guy use their own window trim and your good to go.
Over all the I give the hardtop a 8/10
His words "The hardtop isn't entirely bad, its actually very good compare to many many fiberglass pieces he gets from people to put on their cars"
The install wasn't bad either, real easy to mount up. I do get some wind noise on a windy day on the top front, but that maybe because of my OEM stock strikers that are already worn out. I'll be getting the hardtop strikers from work soon.
The rear window was installed by a professional auto window guy. He charged me 40 bucks for the install, but even then he used his own window seal cause the seal that was included with the hardware ****ing sucks. Its really tough plastic molding that doesn't form well with the window corners. So don't even bother with it, just have a professional guy use their own window trim and your good to go.
Over all the I give the hardtop a 8/10
03-07-2009, 01:56 PM
#4
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 761
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this is what you need to do:
1. buy a cheap hardtop. i have an $1800 carbon fiber mugen style hardtop. i'm proud to say it.
2. it may or may not include a rear window. if it doesn't go buy a piece of lexan, trace a cardboard cutout of the window, subtract a 1/4 inch on each side, and cut it out. you now have a window. i passed NJ state inspection with mine. no question asked, by 3 pretty knowledgeable guys.
3. goto some big supplier of random parts like mcmaster carr, and buy the appropriate moldings.
i will do my best to describe them, but you'll want to research the right parts, mostly by pictures and common sense.
-the hardtop to the car molding, across the back, around the edge, spacing the top from the car. its shaped like a "R". flat side sticks against the hardtop, the "D" and the "\" part press on the car. its about .75" wide... get like 8 feet just to be safe. eyeball it up and stick it on.
-the window seals. looks like the regular window seals, but its one big piece. measure, order accordingly.
-the rear window seal. i have no idea. i paid some dude $80 to install mine after i failed miserably at using IIGQ4U's "shit molding" -the install guys words, not mine. he used much better stuff, and a thick black tar like glue.
4. latches. i took my off my soft top. the hardtop has holes, screw it on. i put o rings on the little studs to prevent rattles.
5. plates to hold it to the car. its like 6" tall, 3" wide. has 3 holes at the top, where it bolts to the top. has a hole where the regular soft top would bolt to the car. (i think) its sort of s bent. you could EASILY make one. my cam is busted, so too bad for now. its 1/4 steel plate, bent (done with a vice) and 4 holes. seriously.
6. add it all together, you're done. total cost is well under $400, probably under $200.
that's what my "kit" included, and has worked perfect for me.
biggest issue is finding a hardtop that will fit. i suggest driving to where you're gonna pick it up (look for wholesalers, warehouses) with a s2000 and a pickup truck. test fit, stick in the bed, drive home. mine fit in an 06 tundra's bed, with a flat fiberglass bedcap on, and closed.
my hardtop, with the first set of short, miscut moldings from IIGQ4U:
(the new ones took SIX months to get)
the only things that really worked from him were the plates and rear molding.
i picked out my own hardtop from some warehouse in Delaware (he's in CA)
1. buy a cheap hardtop. i have an $1800 carbon fiber mugen style hardtop. i'm proud to say it.
2. it may or may not include a rear window. if it doesn't go buy a piece of lexan, trace a cardboard cutout of the window, subtract a 1/4 inch on each side, and cut it out. you now have a window. i passed NJ state inspection with mine. no question asked, by 3 pretty knowledgeable guys.
3. goto some big supplier of random parts like mcmaster carr, and buy the appropriate moldings.
i will do my best to describe them, but you'll want to research the right parts, mostly by pictures and common sense.
-the hardtop to the car molding, across the back, around the edge, spacing the top from the car. its shaped like a "R". flat side sticks against the hardtop, the "D" and the "\" part press on the car. its about .75" wide... get like 8 feet just to be safe. eyeball it up and stick it on.
-the window seals. looks like the regular window seals, but its one big piece. measure, order accordingly.
-the rear window seal. i have no idea. i paid some dude $80 to install mine after i failed miserably at using IIGQ4U's "shit molding" -the install guys words, not mine. he used much better stuff, and a thick black tar like glue.
4. latches. i took my off my soft top. the hardtop has holes, screw it on. i put o rings on the little studs to prevent rattles.
5. plates to hold it to the car. its like 6" tall, 3" wide. has 3 holes at the top, where it bolts to the top. has a hole where the regular soft top would bolt to the car. (i think) its sort of s bent. you could EASILY make one. my cam is busted, so too bad for now. its 1/4 steel plate, bent (done with a vice) and 4 holes. seriously.
6. add it all together, you're done. total cost is well under $400, probably under $200.
that's what my "kit" included, and has worked perfect for me.
biggest issue is finding a hardtop that will fit. i suggest driving to where you're gonna pick it up (look for wholesalers, warehouses) with a s2000 and a pickup truck. test fit, stick in the bed, drive home. mine fit in an 06 tundra's bed, with a flat fiberglass bedcap on, and closed.
my hardtop, with the first set of short, miscut moldings from IIGQ4U:
(the new ones took SIX months to get)
the only things that really worked from him were the plates and rear molding.
i picked out my own hardtop from some warehouse in Delaware (he's in CA)
03-08-2009, 01:17 PM
#7
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by djdorifto,Mar 7 2009, 03:37 PM
I recently bought a C-Wings Hardtop from a seller here, just this past saturday I had it painted. Let me tell you this, I hope I just got a bad mold from the batch cause it needed some attention. The edges were rough and a few weird wave like on the roof. Thankfully it was all taken care of by my bodyshop guy and it looks outstanding.
His words "The hardtop isn't entirely bad, its actually very good compare to many many fiberglass pieces he gets from people to put on their cars"
The install wasn't bad either, real easy to mount up. I do get some wind noise on a windy day on the top front, but that maybe because of my OEM stock strikers that are already worn out. I'll be getting the hardtop strikers from work soon.
The rear window was installed by a professional auto window guy. He charged me 40 bucks for the install, but even then he used his own window seal cause the seal that was included with the hardware ****ing sucks. Its really tough plastic molding that doesn't form well with the window corners. So don't even bother with it, just have a professional guy use their own window trim and your good to go.
Over all the I give the hardtop a 8/10
His words "The hardtop isn't entirely bad, its actually very good compare to many many fiberglass pieces he gets from people to put on their cars"
The install wasn't bad either, real easy to mount up. I do get some wind noise on a windy day on the top front, but that maybe because of my OEM stock strikers that are already worn out. I'll be getting the hardtop strikers from work soon.
The rear window was installed by a professional auto window guy. He charged me 40 bucks for the install, but even then he used his own window seal cause the seal that was included with the hardware ****ing sucks. Its really tough plastic molding that doesn't form well with the window corners. So don't even bother with it, just have a professional guy use their own window trim and your good to go.
Over all the I give the hardtop a 8/10
Trending Topics
03-09-2009, 06:46 AM
#9
see how your outlin of the windshield is black as opposed to the color of your actual car? there is vynel (sp?) tape covering the outline, which is painted in your cars color. It takes a bit to get it off, took me about two hours, but once you peel it off it'll fit flush with a painted hardtop. It looks OK with a soft-top, so its all up to personal preference.
