suzuka-blue-s2k

^ I would still highly recommend that you get the window professionally installed. If you do it yourself, there is a good chance you won't use enough and the window could pop out if your going highway speeds with the windows down, or if you use to much (like I did) and some of it will smash out onto the window and it looks like crap. There is no way to get it off either after its there.

If you still want to do it yourself, you are going to want to put it in the edge where it curves in the indention where the window sits.

Pic:





I used a normal size bead of the windo weld all the way around and thought it would be good, but it was apparently to much. Try to get it all the way around, and try to use as little as possible, but make sure you use enough that it will expand a small amount when the window is pushed in. After this I had my girlfriend hold one side down, and I held the other for about 5 mintues, then I put some weights on it and let it sit for a couple of hours.

jetmagnum

great info, thank you.

any chance you have a couple pix of it after the window weld set up?

suzuka-blue-s2k

This is the only one I have right now. The only place you can really see it is on the bottom of the window. If you look you can see how it looks wavy in some places.






Also, my top does sit a little high because of VIS's new rear seal since it is pretty big. I honestly don't know why people complained about the old one, it's just like spyder562's current rear seal and his sit flush to the body and seals fine. I am going to try spyders rear seal also to see if I can get the top to sit more flush once I get it painted and everything.

Forbidden-USA

This is why i have no idea why VIS would upgrade to a bigger/thicker seal. Bigger seal means bigger gap. Smaller seal means more FLUSH look.

If your top fits correct(like most vis tops do) you dont not need a thicker seal.

The old VIS seal works perfect if installed correctly and is the seal i am currently selling for the rear bottom. Only problem with the one VIS gives you is they dont give you enough. They cut it to short and does not go all the way to the edge where MOST of the wind noise comes from.



What they need to do is put more money into there seals. There new D shape door seal are no different then there last seals. Only thicker.
They STILL crease. How do i know this. I use to sell this seals back in the days

Max, when is the top coming out of paint?

suzuka-blue-s2k

Hey man, I got an appointment set up on the 20th for paint. So it should be right before christmas when I get your new seals on and do the review on them.

suzuka-blue-s2k

I'm going to update this because VIS just upgraded their door window seals. Chin was nice enough to send me a set for free (they now come with all the VIS hardtops from gbperformance).

They are a lot better than the old window seals that I had in the original post. They no longer have the crease in them, and they do stick slightly better. So overall, they are much better than before.

Also if anyone is wondering, you can NOT put the soft top up with the VIS hardware. There are a few people working on a 2 peice rear bracket that will make it much easier to remove the top, and can close the soft top if wanted.

OMGJDM

so with this hardtop, the soft top is unuseable?

suzuka-blue-s2k

Well the soft top is folded down and this top goes on, just like any other hardtop. The brackets are 1 peice as you can tell by the pics, so when you unbolt the hardtop, the brackets will still be there, and people wanted to know if you could just leave those brackets there and put the soft top up. The answer is no., If you leave the brackets they hit the soft top. It is just sort of a pain since you have to tear a few of the interior parts back out, and take that 10mm and 12 mm bolt back out, then put the interior peices back just to get the brackets out to put the soft top back up.

AnjunaS2K

Yaayyyyyy this is really helping me right this moment Thank you ALL =)

saucy2k

In for updates