Clutch loosing pressure
#1
Clutch loosing pressure
Recently when Vtech kicks in, i noticed less pressure to press the clutch pedal then it will go back to normal afterwards. Recently replaced the master clutch cylinder due to dirty fluid, braided clutch line and slave cylinder. I have Stage 1 competition clutch and lightened fly wheel. Bleed the line many time and follow some instructions posted here on line.
Any one has experience this and what might be possible resolution?
Any one has experience this and what might be possible resolution?
#2
I recently did the same. I did not bench bleed the new hydraulics and it caused many issues. It didn't help that I had lost the banjo bolt washers on the clutch line leading to the slave.
I replaced the missing washers, and did a traditional bleed or two (with a buddy pumping the clutch and me opening and closing the bleed valve). It has seemed to fix the issue for the most part.
How much freeplay do you have in your clutch pedal? Whenever I try to introduce any freeplay, the same thing happens. But if I adjust the pedal to remove almost all of the freeplay, the issue goes away and drives normal. Just a little annoying sometimes to have such little freeply.
I'm not sure if having little to no freeplay in the clutch pedal harms anything. Would anyone like to weigh in?
I replaced the missing washers, and did a traditional bleed or two (with a buddy pumping the clutch and me opening and closing the bleed valve). It has seemed to fix the issue for the most part.
How much freeplay do you have in your clutch pedal? Whenever I try to introduce any freeplay, the same thing happens. But if I adjust the pedal to remove almost all of the freeplay, the issue goes away and drives normal. Just a little annoying sometimes to have such little freeply.
I'm not sure if having little to no freeplay in the clutch pedal harms anything. Would anyone like to weigh in?
#3
The clutch does get a little lighter when in VTEC. Oil is shear-thinning, so when you heat it during a spirited drive, it gets a little lighter. But if you're losing a lot of feel, then you have a leak somewhere.
#4
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The clutch is not in contact with any oil.
This is a pull-type clutch. Its possible that centrifugal force is "helping" pull the leaf springs outward. But there shouldn't be much of that going on.
I would check to see if you have proper freeplay.
You do not need 2 people to bleed a clutch...and the traditional bleed method is very inefficient. Use a bottle bleeder. Make one for like $5 out of an old beverage bottle and a windshield washer hose. Keep it in your garage.
This is a pull-type clutch. Its possible that centrifugal force is "helping" pull the leaf springs outward. But there shouldn't be much of that going on.
I would check to see if you have proper freeplay.
You do not need 2 people to bleed a clutch...and the traditional bleed method is very inefficient. Use a bottle bleeder. Make one for like $5 out of an old beverage bottle and a windshield washer hose. Keep it in your garage.
#5
Before my throwout bearing failed, I was experiencing varying clutch pedal feel intermittently. Then one day my throwout bearing split in half at a stop sign.
If everything else is looking good, I would pull the transmission and inspect the throwout bearing.
If everything else is looking good, I would pull the transmission and inspect the throwout bearing.
#6
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I have a similar problem but doesn't seem to be any clear answers out there yet! Normal everyday driving no issues, but the moment I decide to push the engine until it hits VTEC, as I shift to the next gear, you can feel that the clutch has lost all pressure and becomes feather light. The loss of pressure to the clutch is immediate, not gradual. If I then coast in neutral and just pump the clutch again and again or when stationary, it firms up again. Or after I go back to normal driving, the clutch pedal firms up after a multiple gear changes. And it's interesting that it ONLY happens when I hit VTEC at high rpms. I can drive for months with zero problem if I rpms don't hit VTEC. Change the CMC? Though I also read in other posts that most S2K CMCs leak and you just need to change the fluid regularly. So what's the issue?!
Last edited by Type-S; 08-20-2019 at 02:47 AM.
#7
I don't know what the problem is, but I do know its not related to vtec. It is however probably related to higher rpm operation (based on your description of symptoms), which of course overlaps vtec.
In other words, its the rpms, and in this car those rpms pretty much only happen when you're in vtec.
So consider what issues related to high rpm operation might affect things. Saying its vtec related will just send people trying to help you down a Rabbit Hole.
In other words, its the rpms, and in this car those rpms pretty much only happen when you're in vtec.
So consider what issues related to high rpm operation might affect things. Saying its vtec related will just send people trying to help you down a Rabbit Hole.
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#8
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Actually, very good point @Car Analogy as VTEC kicks in around 6,000 RPM? So it is related to full throttle + high rpm, essentially redlining it before changing gears.
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